bheinen74

cant wait to see pics. expecting it to be a picture for the album for that color code.

Bought 4 matched used 15" Blizzaks for 100 bucks total for the 06 Outback (15" wheels wont clear the front calipers without mucho grinding), so intead of ditching the 100 $ Blizzaks, I think i will ditch the Outback soon to be listed for sale i think. and the Blizzaks can go on me Brat

over 100 people have had this happen on the 05+ outbacks. There is a almost 50 page thread right here on this. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11267&highlight=dangerous+ice sorry, it seems to be a design flaw. and the more you load up the car, the worse it gets. I had my 2 dogs in the back and that was enough weight to cause chaos. That is not right. Lots of people say its alignment out of spec, or improper tires, or tire psi, VLSD, VDC, wind, or shocks worn, or bad driver. Its none of those, not in my opinion. all my other Subarus 83 GL, 85Brat, 92 SS, 92SVX, 94 TW, never had this issue on the same types of roads. The older scoobs were rock solid, stable as a snowmobile on all conditions, and they never had dedicated snows, and could be loaded to the hilt, or not loaded at all . Too bad they ruined it. It seems those that do not report the issue, just simply have not driven it on the types of ice that cause it. They are fine in snow, snow powder and slush. But cannot maintain a speed of 40 safely while truckers, yugos, neons, and those with worn summer tires pass going 55 not having trouble. When it happens, it like the whole back end, both rear tires, are on marbles with someone pushing the car left to right on the back windows. everyone says slow down for the conditions, well none of the other older soobies needed to do anything other than just drive reasonably.. Putting 2 dogs in the back, or putting a suit case in the back with a couple kids, should not throw off the alignment so much to cause what it is causing. Subaru dropped the ball on the 05-09, and seemingly tried alignment corrections and a TSB (TSB 05-36-07) for after 07 models, but still could not get it right, and thus, the 2010 Outback gets you know what: total redesign of the suspension, but yet SOA does not acknowledge a problem when over 100 people have the problem. sad day for 05+ outback owners, as a designer should have tested this car with a 50 pound bag of dog food in the back, and a few adult passengers in the back seat on icy covered mixed roads. Adding normal weight to a car is normal, but making the car a death trap in doing so, that is the 05+ outback. Ralph Nader is needed, and no, 100+ people having the problem is REAL. Driving slower is not the solution, when you are already at 40mph and the car is doing wierd motions in the back, and 99% of the others on the same road, same lanes, are not having control issues, they are cruising at 55-60 and almost all the cars are mashing the brakes to not rearend granny in the uncontrollable swaying Outback. ah, so you say get dedicated snows. My other older soobs did not need them to be controllable, the other cars on the same icy road do not have dedicated snow and they have no problem. I might suggest engineers chasing Headgasket problems and the solutions to the blown HG for a few years lead to less study on suspension stuffs.

i would dare say 400-600 due to rust, mismathced bumpers, dented hood, missing corner light, greasey seat, half the steering wheel leather is missing (mileage might not be accurate, i have never seen a steering wheel leather mia like that) crinkled fender along where the hood closes there is a gap like they closed it on a beer can, sunvisor is behind the passenger seat. and, the unknown CEL . If the tires are all good, then yeah, 600

I think i already know the answer, but I won't get the chance to pull off the front wheel til it gets warmer I have a 06 Outback 2.5i just sort of the low end but with heated cold weather package. I think the back will be fine to clear 15" wheel.... I have 2 test wheels. The 1992 15" turbo alloy round hole, and a 1994 Legacy Turbo 15" 5 spoker. any chance on either clearing the fronts without getting out a grinder. I wish to go to a taller walled tired, for better ride quality reasons and narrower tire, for better snow / ice traction.

cruise is electronically disabled by the ECU if you have a engine code, or if the ABS light is on, or even if a Brake light is on, this is true of the newer Soobs, not sure how many years back that applies.. This is due to a built in safety mechanism Do you have any codes or any dash lights on. Also, check fuses

i can see your oil pressure sendor, its fine in that pic

try to replace the oil sender? look for one from a junkyard car thats still dry, or buy new OEM if you can afford it. The only time they fail is when they leak, so if you find a dry one at a yard, get it

My "other Soobs" did not need snow tires, just good new all seasons. I am getting snows for my OBS tonight, following the advice of others, and what i know is right to do.

2 wheel ABS sounds best. Is there a way to "T" the hoses for say, front only lines, or say, back only lines coming off the ABS pump so they are essentually not being "pumped", but with having 2 wheel ABS still work?

you should just buy the cheap individual gauges from a place like Summit Racing, JC Whitney ( i normally hate that place, but would actually recommend it for the guages). Get Speedo, tach, temp, oil pressure, gas, volts, etc. And screw them right over the top of where the digi cluster is. Use the install instructions for the guages, and some may even come with wiring. Rewire it, however you need. Forgettabout the digi fail, unless you are doing a concourse restoration..

Do they ever have a 3.0 H6? Has anyone come across an H6 in the yard. Dang, everytime i try to type its H^

I just priced a new longblock for a h6 from 1stsubaruparts.com list price is $7360.82, and they sell it for $6801.40 Anyone wanna attempt that swap should know the cost of these motors, and used prices arent much better, IF you can find one.

if its exhaust gases getting into the coolant, then no oil or milkshake (thats when oil mixes with coolant), so all you are going to see is air bubbles, and it will go thru small amounts of coolant, famous for the cursed ej25. Get a new cap first. Next step, save for the repairs. carry a jug of premixed coolant with you until this is resolved.

If you had to add coolant, then it is leaking out somewhere, which you know by the smell. hopefully just a pinhole in the hose somewhere.

You have what appears to be the 2 most expensive things to go wrong in a car at the same time. How are the shocks, tires, windows, paint, brakes, wheel bearings, alternator, battery, lights etc etc. in condition. If one of these are questionable, its probably cheapest to sell it for whatever you can get, and get a good replacement. Or, fix the Trans, and fix the Engine headgaskets, only to have to dump more and more and more into it. Doesnt sound like it was wells taken care of by the previous owner. I would fear fixing this one, unless you have unlimited bank account funding, or if you have friends in Nigeria . BGmbino, umm, i think the way he posted, his is a manual tranny. So the fluid is not going to be reddish pink.

I live by that hill too, and with ABS i will be hitting a truck on the road as i finally come to a stop once the car gets to the wet non icy road right after my icy street on a hill stopsign. the hill is ice and cannot stop with ABS. No ABS, i stop and live. Everyday that street is icy. Once the spring time arrives I will reenable ABS. Its good in non-icy condiions. People need to slow down, and be aware the FACT is ABS requires longer stopping distances in snow and ice, than non ABS car. read the manual, and never use cruise on ice.

I like sears Craftsman tools. Whenever i break them, its a 125 mile roundtrip to get the replacement (being in the middle of iowa, the closest sears stores are all 60 miles plus away). Around here, its a LOT easier to find the MAC truck, Snap-On guy, etc. They go around all the little towns all the time to the shops that use their tools, any day i can find a truck at either the car dealer or parts store. Same goes for Husky tools from Home Depot (again, 125 miles roundtrip to get them replaced). My last Husky swivel 3/8 drive ratchet with extending handle broke, my parents had time to go exchange it for me. You got a good buy on the jack with stands. Very good price and very useful. Remember to always use jackstand(s). tool on. About everytime i go to the jnkyard i come back with more screwdrivers. I always find one or two in the gloveboxes, or trunks of the junkyard cars. easy and cheap Same goes for Icescrapers. never buy a icescraper, go to the junkyard and have at it.

It was hard to tell if the fender got pushed back into the door. Best of luck, only you can decide if its worth the fix. I come from a family who rarely bought perfect undamaged cars. We like to buy em wrecked and fix and that was why i thought it can be saved

If you have a come along, time, a new radiator (was probably due for replacement anyway) and a replacement front bumper, this can be repaired fairly cheaply in my view. The hood still looks straight. Remove the grille, and side light trims. Pull off the bumper, get a come along in there and start pulling little at a time. Comealong it back until the hood closes nicely using the edge of the fender as a guide for how much to pull. then you can bolt back on the new side corner light, new bumper, and put a new radiator in there. I would not use a frame machine on this, that would be a waste of good money.

this is not the tank. "plastic inlet on the top of the radiator where the upper radiator hose connects to the radiator replaceable" the plastic inlet is not too much to fix. Where the hose connects, is fixable with jb weld and a sleeve. It sounds, like the hose clamp got too much force when tightening, and it cracked it. Would have to see a picture before saying for sure. radiatorbarn.com has decent new ones, free shipping i think, and lifetime warranty.

agree, JB weld in combination with a thin steel sleeve, can be used for the inlet necks repair. not sure sleeve it on the inside or outside?. This repair is similar to what us old school legacy turbo guys have done with the brittle like glass coolnt fill tanks, where we threaded metal brass nipples onto the broken necks, and JB welded in place..

my Brat was doing the same thing right before i parked it for the winter. last trip to KC it was 18v then on way home it was not chargin but about 8 also, when get in car, to start, wipers would turn on, even though the switch was off. etc. my battery is no good at this point as well. and alternator(s) unknown. good luck report back, sure it will help me as i got the same. wierd.

Maybe they have adopted the norm, of make it last until just out of warranty. I agree. A good way for revenue and a good business plan involves parts, labor, and service when the warranty is no longer applicable. I would hope for better, but cases like this, i dunno what to think.

What did it do to the gas tank?