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Everything posted by bheinen74
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no. reason, a tailight can be had for 20 bucks, tailgate for about 75, and bumper who knows. heck, the tailgate on there can be straigthen by a professional. the tailight lens is screwed in place. But, they might total it due to no parts availability. When insurance company goes to ALL the auto bodysuppliers, none of the suppliers are going to have these parts. But, member on here, know part are around.
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ABS needs sensitivity adjustability. My factory radio has a volume knob to adjust how loud or soft the driver wants it. My Subaru has a knob to adjust hot or cool air in the cabin. ABS needs a knob to adjust the sensitivity, and it doesnt have that, so i take it away. For the cost of ABS on a car, manufacturing cost standpoint, it is not perfected to say the least, but it should be, its been around for long enough and it still is not correct. I would not advise/recommend disable a safety part of a car to anyone. Just that is what is my preference **Also, if car manufacturers want to make a safer car, they should design a cars cruise control system to be shutdown in snow/icey ABS required situations. my 2bits.
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i sort of wish they would just make a 2 wheel ABS system. I am not an engineer. With ABS working, stop on ICE about 90 feet (sliding right passed the stop sign and onto the road it crossed in front), foot pressed hard and firm on brake. Without ABS same road, same ICE, stop about 10 feet, right at the stop sign, no sliding thru, no sliding into oncoming trucks. The upper scale car manufacturer have a disable switch and in the owners manual tell the owner to use the defeat switch in ice and snow, for a reason. I do disable mine, based on my knowledge on how it works and doesnt work on ice, down a hill. My drivers ed, the cars did not HAVE ABS and that was how i was taught.Heck my first car (1964 Chevelle) did not even have power brakes, thats how i learned.
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do get KYB Gr-2
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This.just a plain old used shop rag. No chemicals, no pricey cleaners. Just a halfway dry oily shop rag.
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Audi make a car that has a switch to turn ABS on and off In the Audi manual it tells the owner of car to turn ABS off in snow and ice. ABS sucks pull the fuse. Pull the fuse on 05+ Outback under hood fuse and you get ABS light and brake light, but at least can stop. If yu pull the fuse under dash, you get lots of CEL and error codes. not good
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is the T belt a Subaru OEM belt? or is it made in China...remember, China puts lead paint on childrens toys, and bad toxins in their drywall, radioactive material in crayons, they make inferior products at a cheaper cost..etc etc etc. Could be an inferior belt, or it simply could have stretched to just outside the spec. limits.. You said you replaced the water pump so i would rule that out.
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Its not just a engine issue, its a cheapness issue. My opinion, and many others will say too, that interiors are much cheaper in the 95+ than a90-94 Much of the interior of the 90-94 was made with nice fitting plasting, etc, nicer seat materials, plusher carpet, etc etc. The hidden compartments had hinges holding them in place (for the wagons), etc Then in 95, they went to felt covered cardboard for much interior stuff, and cheaper seating materials, trim etc, the carpet is like tissue. Its like comparing a legacy to a impreza as far as quality. The hidden compartments do not have hinges, its just a cardboard panel wedged in (for the wagon). Just be careful of the FWD version for era 90-94. Wait for whatever to come along that has lowest miles, with good service records from first owner to last, and is nicely babied The 90-94 is 100% positively going to be much more able to get to 400k miles. the 95-99 is 100% less likely to be able to get to 300k miles, and 400k not likely. Both cars should be fairly easy to get to 250k, the first gen will get there with no major engine work (Ej22) and the secon gen will not get there without engine work (ej25). Now, the kicker, test drive one of each, or several of each, and report your findings before making a deal.
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without a lift, the much larger tranny case of the EJ series is not going to fit in the tunnel or under the spare tire holder by firewall. for sure a EJ 4eat is HUGE, no way that would work even with a lift. the 5mt might be more doable.
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That is the exact response I expect from any Midwest Subaru dealer. Good thing for this board to get the correct answers. It does no good for you to go back to the dealer to inform them. That is not what they are there for. Refer to this board for the answers, not your dealer, that applies to the midwest subaru dealers. West coast subaru dealers are very helpful.
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Also, under the back seat, check the wire connector under the seat for fuel pump. It could be corroded at connector, or melted. You may want to join the bbs.legacycentral.org and post there, i am sure someone might have a clue there. IN the engine compartment, there will be numerous ground to chassis spade connectors under bolts, shock towers, front radiator support, near the battery etc. undo each and every one, and use sandpaper to scratch to shiny metal, then attach bolts again. This sounds like classic bad ground, then kill the engine. you mentioned the car was filthy right? Was the car flooded in the spring /summer floods we just had, most of Iowa City and C.R. was under water then?
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Subaru cars use a switched ground to complete the always positive circuit. What this means is you have to search. Your new lights probably assumes switched power, but subies have switched ground, so that makes stuff a little backwards. If I were you, I would wire them with a seperate switch, relay and fuse and don't mess with the original system.
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Weber Air Filter Clearance
bheinen74 replied to nikgurn's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
do you have the short or tall airfilter version?