bheinen74

so, zero to 5mph is 3-5 seconds?

yeah that banana is going nuts

long live the ej22 please bring it back.................enuf said my point real and valid. i will gladly take a ej22 with 135 reliable hp over anything. It will run a liftetime. Subaru proved it in the land speed endurance record. but they now fail, this is so true. Truth is the ej22 is the best they made truth is the ej25 is among the worst they made. Subaru beter straighten up. They better give us a good engine again.

Do not touch stuff under the hood when car is running. Sounds like a Spark Plug Wire. with the car off, trace the 4 plug wires to the black box where they all hook into, and make sure they seem securely attached. You probably are due for new plug wires, but since you got shocked, it tells me a loose connection, or badly worn plug wires, loose ground wire, or loose positive power cable some where

this kit drops the torsion bar tube, but not the mustache bar. The diff has the square plate to drop it. I think the instructions might be wrong. the whole torsion bar mounts get blocks, but not the front diff bracket, it remains as it is stock. The back of the diff has the rectangular plate to drop it 4" from the mustache bar. if you have questions i can answer them. Before you start on the front, disconnect the brake hoses, since you have extenders to put on, or you will end up stretching them out too much. Also, get up under the center near the driveshaft, and remove the emergency brake cable from the bracket hook stays, where it is along the tunnel. The vacuum tubing bracket near the left front shock mount needs to be unbolted-or remove the screw, as it will have to bend down as well.

and the 85, 86, 87 all had them...no matter what transmission it has.

pretty neato. who is this?

Mick, good luck and have a ton of fun. Put up your pics asap when you make it back. Go have fun this weekend. cheers.

NO step. 90-94

sweet. better than me hitting an spare alternator fell off truck ahead of me at 60mph and cutting hole in my floor board, denting plastic fuel tank and smashing muffler.....on my crx si previous long time ago keeping on topic i cleaned terminals on the 2001 interstate battery, charge it with charger and put back into my brat, drove to the local pub, and had a few and came back home......

ej engines run a lot cooler than a ea engine in my observation, with proper cooling, should be good with a new single row and the ej

The newer outbacks and legacy lmited's (01-08) have vlsd rears in the 4.11 flavor i believe. why dont we start getting them..?

also, after installing this kit or any kit, you will "freak out" about the bad front camber look....but trust me however bad it does look, it will settle. Mine looked like it would never ever settle, but yeah it does. Roll car back and forth, drive it, it is fine. No tire wear at all with my slideshow kit. I have over 5k miles on it, no tire wear its likes factory, even though the bigger wheels look to /\ it not anything, no problems. It is awesome............thanks also, even though i bought mine second hand, not directly from slideshow. the only thing is my one front strut mount sort of is not quite ground enough metal to tigthen to the strut. also you will need to BFH hammer the inner shock tower frame of the car to clear the springs. No big deal you will see wear it needs beat once the front is all installed, and with the front on jackstands you will see where it will hit when turning left lock to right lock on the inside of strut tower. not much to bash really i did it on mine.

the shorter the length of the ground cable the better.

need more info on the product vulcanizing cement.

tracks?

I can tell this is a spam post, not legit. If you reply you will get your email on a long mailing list of crap.

thats a RHD JDM car I do believe, probably something they had in JDM land.

This is TRUE.

dual battery setup? How to fix your problem cheap. Get rid of that extra battery. Sell your extra battery for like 30 bucks cheap. This will fix your problem and you will have extra money in your pocket. Put it back to stock, way, and you won't have a problem.

It's not just the speed rating, but tire size. Remember when 13" tires were only 35 buks a pop. They still are. Then manufacturers went to 14" tires, they were running about 45-50. Then they decided we should have 15" tires back in the 90's. They were typically 60-75 each. Then in the early 2000's they decided we should have 16" tires, you guessed it, 85-100 each. Then recently, we all MUST have 17" tires on factory cars. You guessed it, 100-145 a pop. We don't need this much rubber on our cars. I think 15" is what the standard should become again. Yes you need to replace them all Yes Potenzas are the CRAP of tires. CRAP. nothing good about them. The only reason they put them on is becuase Bridgestone is basically paying every car manufacturer to use their tires. This goes back to the Ford Exploder tire issue of them blwoing up, and people deciding the whole company was bad, and not worth buying their tires. so they pay companies to use them (part of the lawsuit) and try to get respect back. They are garbaage.

Also, dont forget the steering extender. Do you have the stock aircleaner box/carb? If so, the top radiator hose needs lengthened to snake around it, or else cut the snorkel inlet off the air cleaner box. If you have a weber, it may be fine. The lower radiator hose needs to be shortened but is able to be reuses when it is shortened. May have to change the heater hoses too, and make sure they dont rub the steering column. The kit that slidshow made, the front crossmember blocks have long LARGE bolts, but those bolts were too big in diameter for my lift, they are larger than the stock bolts. I had to go find smaller diameter bolts so as to not have to drill the frame rails out for them to fit. Just take your stock ones to the store and get longer ones. Exhaust needs to be wired up in back wehre the muffler is until you can get it to a shop to modify where it runs which will be too low until you get a shop to fix it.

snags, a few. The wire to the connector for duty solenoid C was pretty short and came out the socket, had to fix that. the thing that has grooves, i smoothed them out with emory paper and a file, just to get the high spots where it was cathcy when running finger over. You have to measure the friction after the new disks, it has to has some friction, but not stick. There are spacer washers that can be added or subtracted on top the piston. I kept mine with the same it had in it, using all new drive clutches, retaining the friction discs i believe. It has been like 5 years or so since i did this job. Get a new seal for the rear housing to center unit. ***The parking pawl also likes to get in the way, or dislocated, upon putting back together, which means it will not shift back up into park. That was my major hangup, resulting in separating the tail shaft again to put it in place. I would say good luck. I would do this job again, its not that bad after the first time, kinda like pulling an engine. if your parking pawl rod gets disloacated, you wont know it til you have it all back together, drop it in gear, and then go to return to park, it wont go That sucks. the pawl is the rod at the very bottom.

its the same kit i have on the BRAT in my avitar. I used some instructions i found floating around, and had McBrat help on a few things. yay mick.

I have. replaced all the clutches in there, and new transfer piston plate seal, etc.....on a turbo 4eat. there are like 2 more clutches on the turbo than a non-turbo tranny. my dutcy solenoid had failed, and it caused the transfer piston to get fubarred, and was locked. made for not so fun city driving. had to fix it. did it with tranny still in the car.