bheinen74

glad its not on the 06...

"A total of 92,445 Subaru BRATs moved out of dealer showrooms and into owners’ driveways between 1978 and 1987 – no easy accomplishment and certainly worthy of an honourable mention.' "

on the dash , near the turn signal lever down where there is a hole on the dash on the flat part of it, near the light switch. the relay is on the passenger right shock tower with all the other relays....it has a pink connector with like 5 or there abouts wires....

well this is figured out....... I will be buying a new battery. guess the old 2001 Interstate battery is done. My alternator must have fried it with AC current or something, on top of the age of the battery. Bad timing on this since property taxes are due and i have them in the mail amounting to a good chunk of change. Guess i will wait a few weeks to get the new battery, and just drive the 92's until then.

you need one of these to grow

You've got a keeper. Very nice. Keep up whatever you are doing to it.

glad you got the vibrations removed... thanks for sharing the info. I am not surprised at the new whatever being junk.

if you have a hollowed drilled bolt there now, maybe epoxy, or better yet weld something to the hollewed inside and turn it out?

http://roadrunnertrailerandhitc1.liveonatt.com/specials.nxg#6 76251 for Brat but i want the other style that goes to tow hooks....no drilling mine up.

is this the impreza wagon i saw on LaCrosse WI craigslist for 250 bucks, was advertised as 9-4 'fairly crappy subaru"....he never responded to me. green....

pretty crappy

can anyone post links to new ones please. I am looking for one for the Brat that mounts to the tow hooks, and not into the floor support of the bed, i don't want to drill holes, want to mount to the tow hooks....

first things importantly is the year of the SVX, cause the 92-95 was obd1 and you can swap and not have a permanent check engine light. if the SVX is 96-97, then you cannot swap......due to permanent engine check light and limp mode due to it......

you can put a used traiing on there, but in a few months when that one has a noisy bearing, then you will wish you did it right. Bearings are wear items, after about 150k miles on the, they go bad.......all of them. some sooner, some later, but they are replaceable serviceable items, designed to be replaced when they give it up. if you have break pads wear, you dont go put used ones on do ya? nope, same goes for here.

dust shield is part of Axle.....nothing to do with bearing. And I don;t think you can get just a dustshield from a part place, but you can find them on junkyard cars....

The drivers side window buttons on my 92 SS is lighted, my 92 SVX is lighted, my brothers 99 obw is lighted? yours must have just been like most and burned out...something i always look for when buying my used subies....that and the instrument lights....they must all work, or I am nagging them a lot on the price..

the Wrist pin is the dowel that holds the piston to the connecting rod.....

1st place lol due to only entry in the Mini Truck class..... the whole set of photos javascript:popupScroll('gallery.cfm?GalleryID=9',800,600)

when i was looking for my BRAT, I passed up the non-AC ones an waited it out til one with AC came along.........now with the lift kit on mine is not hooked up at this point. Most people will not really care yes or no on it. But I was one who was ready to wait, and even pay MORE for one with it still intact....

You will need to replace all 4 at the same time, its the requirement for a AWD vehicle. I would probably say stay away from GoodYear and Bridgestone. those such as Michelin, Yokohama, Hankook, Pirelli, Continental, BF Goodrich, Dunlop, Uniroyal, Kumho would be a good choice, its all a matter of your best deal on the correct size. A good place to comparison shop is http://www.discounttiredirect.com and http://www.tirerack.com they have reviews, prices, etc, then use that info to shop locally..... if it was me, I would get the HG fixed under warranty, first and foremost, and make sure that turns out as expected.......and drive it a few more thousand miles before plunking down money on tires. If the engine seems fine, then go for it. What is your mileage? The T belt, water pump, valve cover gaskets, and cam seals are prbably ready same time they do HG. I would ask them to do both HG at same time, unless tey tyr to do just the leaker due to warranty, it IS worth it for you to do both and make sure they use the Subaru Updated design HGasket. even if they charge you some to do both, its a peace of mind thing and you won't regret it.

down the radiator side tank, nearest the passenger side, is a single quick connect terminal to the thermo switch, down in the middle of the tank end. Unplug that, and then ground it to body. Fan should turn on when the ignition is on. It i turns on when you ground it, that thermo switch is bad. Or the wire is corroded like they sometimes are. also there are a couple of plastic connectors near the headlight in front of the battery, and they can get corroded, they are part of it as well.

There is a little ground wire in the top part of the radiator to the radiator support up sort of near the color code sticker/hood prop. Is that still present.?

If you choose to up the boost on a 20+year old car with stock motor, nothing good will result except a future partout for those who kept them stock. I don't know, thats my 2 cents...i will get bashed. pretty hard

http://news.pickuptrucks.com/2009/04/the-top-10-most-honorable-japanese-pickups.html Very cool- we made it on that list too.

if you start hitting Wisconsin craigslist in your search, you will come up with something. Seems I am finding stuff there, that came from down south (ie Florida) people tend to bring them home after being Snowbirds down south for the winter....etc. or they tend to sell them before heading south for Winter. If you can find such a deal, it will be not as rusted.