bheinen74

and, you know how almost all subaru keys can start an older one, go out there, and give her a start....tell us how she drives...

Sounds like you cooked the engine, took it to a shop to fix the headgaskets, plus abunch of other stuff, wheel alignment wax, detail, etc, all while after the engine was cooked it was knocking...... Darn ej25. The noise and crank walk is a result of you, cooking the engine, due to a design feature of this ej25. Or it is a result of a BIG oil leak that the service shop would be responsible for. They did their part, but should not have let you have the car back with a cooked crank, or a big leak. If you are lucky, they will give you half off a new block.I am pessimistic someone who is an optomist can get your hopes up I hope.

why is this a need to crush car? get the wheels........Dude would have fun with this one.

^ most of us don't go the monroe route, we go the KYB route for sake of everything.... ^^thats a nice silver, think you are looking good there.

with a hacked up harness, its a wise and cheap thing to go get a fire extenguisher and carry behind your seat.......

not sure that price is a good deal....if the car is pristine you did well, if its beat no

love it. someone needs to keep these recorded somehow, cause they only seem to stay on so long then disappear.

Welcome back......glad you are considering another Subaru, they are terific in this part of the country , on those cold winter days....full of snow and drifts.

hi. looks like you signed up here a few years ago. How is the JDM engine Ej20 rated on power for you over there? ECU for you is probably much better than we got here in US. We didnt get EJ20 til much later. You had it in the early 90's. DOHC heads?

i will race ya..

Ben, pm sent. wish you would have posted this last night...before i might have become a impreza owner.

i fixed my fubarred 93ss auto center clutches for about 70 bucks in parts total, all new transfer clutches (about 55 bucks shipped), new transfer output seal, new seal for the rear output tail sector, and new fluid. For sure most places will charge and make like 1g profit on this or more. ....they say its a hard jobm but it is not. that is how they make money

this is a big pita...... either way. i may try to squirt some wd-40 in there to see what that might do......but its like jello in there....when the key gets turned.

My Brats ignition switch has given up. I sold my parts Brat one a while back (doh). Anyhow, I dont even want to mess with sourcing a used one, that is going to wear out too. Where can i get a brand new one, or a rebuild kit to fix mine, or send it someplace to rebuild it to new? thanks

you can for sure squirt some grease in there with a grease gun with pointed fine tip nozzle. It will guiet down dry bearings for a while...... it probably is the bearing. if your inner wheel seal is bad, or missing, then the water from some puddles could have got in there, deteriorating the original grease making it into a milkshake. If you went thru any puddles recently, then yeah. Ask Dennis what happened to his after a few small puddles. Fun stuff right, but then not long after the fun, there is trouble

they must have torqued it to the specs "he:grin:lla tight" as well as probably crossthreaded..

Good write up on the little things. Radiator hoses, vacuum, gas lines, etc. Everyone who is adding a lift kit first time ever, just assumes nothing besides the kit is needed. We all know there are many little things to overcome, and you covered them quite well.. thanks good job.

when my 92 ss had those wheels, the previous owner had them at 44psi....on some pretty good potenzas...

when lifting out the motor, use the little hook L shaped bracket on the right rear side top, and the front alternator loop mount bolt.

and i found the tool for 39.99 plus ship on ebay, gotta be cheapers somewhere, Mick is cheaper......lol

i say put a NEW bearing on there, this is a job to do right, the first time and it will last. Getting a junkyard one with more miles is a crapshoot i would not do. Bearings are a wear item, and going used will get you one that might be worse. Ben if you want i will try to buy the tool in the coming weeks, cause i need to do mine someday.

http://www.indysworld.com/80s/brats/Brats.pdf 78-81 "Gen1" Introduced in August 1977 as a 1978 Model

the 1977 Brat is rare. is this one a prototypo.? its looks pretty good actually, and has a nice rollbar. You got a good buy.

anyone have something a little less dead?

I will use a knee cap protector next time with a come-along.....