bheinen74

http://s405.photobucket.com/albums/pp132/bheinen74/kc%20parts%20maroongate%20and%20crossmember/ might not be able to see it all, but its a pretty much rust free mostly straight brat tailgate from a 86, taillights very minty from BRAT, EJ22T turbo crossmember with steering rack and power steering pump, tie rods, and stabilizer bar all from car with 85,000 miles, some wiring harness chunks for same ( i brought the engine home july 4th weekend) and some bumper turn signal spares...etc for BRAT. This is my second spare tailgate at this point. and thats just masking tape weathered on the tailgate, gonna clean that off....

Just got back from KC. Guess what the Brat carried home this time? left this AM aft 4:45. About half hour down the road, everytime i kicked on the high beams, clock light kinda flickered and it had a brief power loss. Never thought too much sun came up lights off. On the way back about 30 minutes north out of KC my volt guage drops down in the red, for ABOUT an hour, showing like around 8/9 volts.. a few tmes it kicked backed to 12v for a half minute, but then was in the red steady. About hour from home it went back to normal. Now, what could this be, this last week i saw a really high charge level like up near the top but not pegged this past week once. One morning i went to start the car last week, and no starter kick in but the tach needle shot to about 1.8k for a second...... The only thing on this BRAT i have not changed yet is the battery (looks old but its an interstate) and the alternator, which i have a couple spares.. anyhow, anyone guess what came home with me?

sweet. thats easy enuf. now, the ecu portion? big thanks on answers. this is still in the hypothetical mode.

so drilling coolant holes thru the head...... not using some of the transmission mounting holes and a ecu retune Thanks In regards to the machining / drilling of new coolant holes, thats just in the heads, and can you explain a little more on the ECU retune, is that necessary what does that do thanks

maybe the choke is closing when it heats up? maybe the choke wire is not hooked up. Check that first, make sure that voltage is going to choke and its actually opening the choke not closing it when your car warms up, If you have no voltage to the choke wire, it will not open the choke If there is voltage it should open the choke, not close it. some mechanisms might be reversed and it could close the choke when it warms up. thats an easy fix. let me know if you need help.

there is no problem here in what you feel, just the way ABS (crap) is. period. I have had numerous Subaru cars with ABS and all give the same type reaction you have felt. Don't be alarmed, nothing is wrong, just ABS does this. If i can shout out again ABS is Crap, but it can save your life, or it can take. Do not pull a fuse, the system on the car does what it can, and it does it the way it was designed, so leave it alone other than cleaning the wipe points of the sensor magnet head

i know someone who ran with 20 degree advance-he had to swap a different engine in no time. We were at the iowa campout this summer, and we couldnt figure out what would have blown his engine, til he said 20 degrees and about 6000 rpm ......yeah dont do that. My avitar pic sports your lift......i bought it from Greenly??? yay

agree on that even rockauto had a notice on the cheapos which they have not sold.....there are inferior stuff out there......

you cant pull axles if i do recall, the axle nut is what hold the hub assembly and wheel to the spindle. take off axle nut and wheel flies off.....cool to video tape and place on youtube, not cool if you love your subaru now, i suppose you could pull the transmission....ah never mind. What you need to do is pull out the driveshaft, and dolly it with it rolling on the back wheels. Is your OBW a auto or manual?

same happened to me on a 118k mile brat second day i had it i had to rebuild the carb, the list is : Carb rebuild New OEM Thermostat New WaterPump-old one began to leak a week after i got the car New Front MWE Axles-old ones banged New front Ball Joints-you guessed it, old were shot and ripped Outback Limited Leather Seats installed Removed dog hair from inside carpet and vents POR-15 entire underside Herculined bed 4” Lift kit with new rear shocks LSD rear conversion, clutch type 15” Pugs with 205/75/15 Baja AT’s Front PushBar/Brush Guard install, then remove then new paint for pushbar Hella H4 conversion lamps, and H1 Hella conversion hi beams New heater core valve Removed nest from blower area New dash speakers Custom Diamond Plate tailgate trim OEM front skidplate custom fit for 4” lift and brushguard USMB stickers for tailgate Fixed topper hinge, and installed locking “T” handle New fuel filters both of them heater control valve leaking, new one of them oil changes. Greased the bearings with new. Fixed washer pump and cleaned clogged nozzles burned the clutch out at 120k stuck in a snow drift 8 feet deep, replaced clutch, resurface flywheel, new throwout etc. couldnt get used to the hard as heck to push clutch pedal, so install new clutch cable, old one was stretched. install cyclops light weber install since the carb still sucked after rebuild 4spoke steering wheel to get rid of the UFO wheel etc etc etc.............. I love my BRAT it now has 124,xxx miles and its finally a daily driver. taking it out of state for the first time this weekend, off to KC to get a turbo crossmember and goodies, hopefully i will score yet another ej22t

if you have a 94 and want to convert the front end, the ENTIRE front from a 91 has to be swapped. hood, lights, fender, bumper, turn lights. The hood line, headlights, etc are different on the 91 and to get just a single part to fit, the WHOLE front clip has to go with it. You would be much better off to just use the 92 turbo parts cause then individual compoments will work.

Yes absolutely Bad mechanics bad practice using an air wrench on wheel lugs Too mich torque results in warping the wheels(alloy is soft) or the rotors warping due to stretching of the lug studs

You don't need a steering extension on this type lift. Also, the rear strut mount needs a "X brace" welded in there.......to make it right, or an "H" brace or a "N" brace, etc.. without the brace welded, the | | will end up like a / / or \ \

i always thought alloy wheels were so to be 75-82 ft pound if you get this wrong on a SVX, it will ruin you hub/bearings....

This is a hypothetical question. Say someone had a 05LGT turbo and the block has a problem and needs replacing. Can one take a ej22t block (stock pistons, cranks etc) and place the intake, sensors, heads, etc from the ej25 and then put them on the ej22t and then install back into the LGT. what won't work, cam/cranks sensors all work on the ej22t block? also, is the 05 auto tranny going to line up with the old ej22t block housing/ thanks

They can seize. If they have tried a press and no go, then heat or torch. I should suggest to source a new-used hub assembly, that's what I had to do on my 92 when the axle was seized and no penetrant, press etc could budge it.

I have the same bar minus the screen. I didn't know anyone else actually had the reinforcement bar that spreads from the bumper brackets...I have that, its hidden behind my bumper, makes the thing as solid as a rock. could probably yank a house down with it. Usually when the bars are sold, they don't come with that back bar. cool cool looks nice.

that Brat looks really nice. Welcome to the board. where did you find this one? Do you know of any more Brats around?

spray pb blaster thru the roll pin holes, take a bigger hammer, get a punch, and hammer/punch along the outer part near where the roll pin goes thru. spray pblaster near the diff where the stubs stick out. the jolting action may allow the penetrate to sneak in where it is held up. also, try to smack the axles on towards the diff, and also hammer away from the diff- try both directions in an attempt to start it.

removing the side covers will do nothing really to get the stubs out. I assume you drove the roll pins out on both. Y or N pickel fork? you will have to remove the axles to get to the torx bolt if its a clutch type lsd -you cannot remove the stubs on the clutch type lsd without removing, or breaking the torx bolt-well you could cut thru the stub which cuts the bolt. if its a vlsd then ther are circlips holding the stubs not the torx .

Welcome to the Site.

Probably low on atf fluid Among other things

so, i dont understand, the headgaskets are leaking right now? and they wont replace it under warranty because why? how many dealers have you taken it to to look at. If they are weeping, then they are in fact leaking, and they should warranty it, they know this is a problem and that is what the warranty is for.

flex, and who cares about the bushes..... sweet. now thats suspension travel.

you are not gonna find used ones with less miles than you have now. I would ride it out another 30-40 miles....unless you notice tires wearing or you feel the weakened sag on bumps, dips in the road. most shocks are good for ore than 70k miles. and like the person said they are not leaking, so ride it out.