bheinen74

I have my parts Brat, and the rear bits are not rusty. if you have portable cutter, you could come cut it out and then use it for yours. wouldn't be too much to buy that from me.

just arrived home an entire ej22t complete engine i pulled at the pick n pull, ECU, boost solenoid, and MAF assembly. car odometer showed 85,300 miles.. Don't know if the engine runs or not, but i am taking a chance its good. car was not wrecked and coolant looked good. now, what the heck am I going to use it for? I think i will look for a RS or WRX with a bad block.....yes. started pulling the engine at 1pm, the place closes at 5pm. we had been to that place earlier in the morning, looking for my brothers outback hood and stuff. We had a list of like 10 junkyards to hit. We had stopped at them all and by 1pm I decided, heck lets go back and get the ej22t about 2:30 I cut the piss out of my thumb area pad/palm as I was trying to crack loose the lower driver side trans to engine nut. hand slipped of wrench, and it slipped into the axle boot clamp.....bleed for a long while. anyhow, I had my brother with me, and when i cut my hand, I had most of it all ready to pull. Anyhow, My brother had to use the wheelbarrel cause i only had one good hand, and we were hauling the engine up to pay at 4pm. Little did I know it at the time, cause we had never been to this part of KC before, but across from the pick n pull, was a carquest, so at 4:10 I stopped there and picked up a 2 pack of superglue, so i could close up my wound/gash. Off to check in at the hotel at 5pm, and shower. Then off to go see the KC game. Took about 45 minutes to get cheap tickets, 7 bucks a pop for outfield. after the game piled into the passenger van hotel shuttle, and it was like sardines, 35 people in that van i would guess. Today, we bought tickets someone had as extras. 5th row behind home plate, 5 bucks a ticket and the ticket price showed 35. what a deal. oh, the ej22t was 236 becuase i had the intake, throttle body, etc with it. ecu and other bits were a little more, so i ahve about 300 into it, plus a really nasty cut.

Okay Guess what i found in KC pick n pull and now sitting in the back of the rescue wagon? Banana

i think the outback has more cargo space than forester.

no, the result of the voltage regulator going out is it destroys the digidash to never work again, kinda like when a lightbulb burns out, its done for good......ok' bh

Next on my list is to get the AC belt configuration figured out, since after the long ago lift kit install, the lower radiator hose is in the way of the lower belt pathway where the lower part of the belt rides. My solution is going to be to add a "roller" guide pulley to push the belt up out of the way of the radiator lower hose. I need to source a smooth idler guide pulley and install it on the lower portion of the alternator bracket. Also need to find a longer belt, probably 30-34". the stock AC belt is about 26", but the engine is now 4" lower, the AC compressor stayed in the stock location, thus need a 4" longer belt right? I was looking at what cars have a smooth idler kinda like what the ej22 have for the T belt guide pulley and rollers. I think I am going to try and pull a few off some junkyard cars and see what i can come up with. want to get my AC back on this summer. wish me luck on this project. Getting everything all buttoned up for sure now on my BRAT.

I think subaru will drop the tribeca at anytime. once they refine the legacy and outback.

:banana:

the guage was showing 1/4 today (its a funky guage though) so i filled it up. took 7.9 gallons. My mileage tripometer showed 161 miles, adjust for the big tires that adds up to about 181 real miles.....i might be off some on my 12.5% thats a nice guess on the 7.9 gallons so 22.93mpg into the 25-40 mph headwind then back witha 20mph tale wind-the wind had died down later in the day. Also, after i filled up the tank, as usual, my guage goes to empty. the needle bounces from empty to 1/4 until i hit about the 3/4 full on the tank and then the guage is accurate from that point to empty. So when i drove to Des Moines, the guage showed empty on the way, but then the more i drive, then the guage shows i am making gas, not using gas lol by the time i got to DM is showed about 3/4 full lol I have plugged the ECU back in to make my Brat think all is normal lol.

Did you buy this car new? Or did you buy this car used? Could have been repainted, and/Or they could have pulled the rubber protector molding off and reinstalled it haphazardly. If you bought this new, then I would be a little concerned. what was the manufacture date of this car, located on the door jamb or vin plate? A 2001 could have been manufactured in late 2000, so a 9 year old car, heck, we have 3 year old cars here in Iowa with rust. salt does that. no biggie. The company Dodge truck has 16,000 miles on it and it has a hole in the quarter panel from rustout. Maybe your car was driven in Iowa, or flooded in its precious life.....too many things to factor in, it will pass no worries

check this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=98287&highlight=justy its off the road....and soopy.

less to go wrong that way.

yes pic 5 is the heater/ac vacuum lines that run back to near the firewall over on passenger side, where there will be vacuum controls for the hvac. You cannot get rid of them, hook them back to the manifold nipple.

same comparison is digi dash 25 years old to aftermarket Kraco car stereo 25 years old, they arent gonna work. 25 year old speaker, work like crap. just not meant to last, not manufactured to last, not gonna work. after messing around with these, the only way to get around it is to swap to analog. done. But, I do wish you luck on this for real. if you got a good one, cool.

congrats. got mine installed and working too

they are on the way to bring back the famous digi dash perhaps?

yep yep

they might not have even changed the oil or the filter. could have just loosened the plug and thats it. how do you know. that would be3 a killer way to make money til they are caught. I bet the Dodge and Chevy dealers do that sort of thing, they don't even care. Wonder how many dealers charge for filter and oil and never even swap out the filter, just make that as profit. Most people would not even know how to check. only way to know is to do it yourself.

nobody is offering the answer to his question on offroad mods, we are telling the real what to do stuff before we offer any more to this person, that is why i like this board. If the person posted on nasioc or something, he would have got the typical performance mods which would for sure cook this motor. I hope he addresses the maintenance things first, then he can legitimately start asking mod stuff, after the real stuff is fixed. if he really does want to "improve" his outback he will listen and search.......for known issues first, then attempt to mod it.

oem from subaru will outlast anything on the market from your discount stores. they will fit like a charm and no problems....not that pricey either.

also, what is the new rear suspension change? i looked at a brochure and it looks to take away clearance near the wheel/shock mount, not increase clearance as they claim. I would wait and buy a 2011 with the temp guage, or whatever year they bring it back. .

same here unplugged the maf, could not start...

this will keep the cost of HG warranty repairs down, thus they can make more profit.

to set the side lash, the original turns out from being snug is needed. You need to source another non molested tranny and then count the number of turns out it is and hopefully set yours the same as the unmolested one. you will be playing with the unknown and it will either work or work, but for not very long. If they had the cap off, it will probably need the new inner seal and orings, as they don't survive dissassembly that well. both side caps play a part on both sides as they hold the guts centered. have fun.

my 10 dollar bet: Its bad, like they ALL are.. finding a working one of these digis is harder than finding a nugget of gold in , well, yeah....