bheinen74

so you tested it and everything works? or you just bought it hoping it is not dead like they all are.. good luck tho.

put in the newer updated headgaskets if not been done is the first thing to do. That being said off the bat, I hope you did research the several problems that all that era outbacks have.

more like floored on the way to go almost 70. my guage shows about half when i got back, i filled it up right before doing this drive. but again, this is not a typical trip with the high winds we had. I must have plumbed my PCV stuff and breather hoses correctly, did not use or lose any oil....

report update. Just went to Des Moines and back Sunday, that is about 65 miles each way so around 130 miles roundtrip I can do math. Anyhow, no way to determine fuel consumption yet, there was around a 25 mph head wind going, with gusts up to about 40.

okay dug deep tonight. Took off the idle circuit cover plate and diaphram, cleaned with choke cleaner and compressed air, that was not dirty or clogged. removed anti diesel solenoid. upon inspection, notice the end was kind of not looking right. Also, the antidiesel solenoid is in the place where the idel circuit gas flow is. Upon more inspections and the way the anti diesel solenoid end was smashed up, the end that thread into the carb, decided to test air flow thru the valve. Hooked up a vacuum line could not blow thru, applied power to the anti diesel solenoid, could not blow air thru. hooked up a vaccuum guage, same no relase of vaccuum either even when 12v applied to the valve it was not flowing anything. Determined that a gasket was missing on the valve which when it had been installed (not me) it had gotten too tight due to no gasket. It damaged the 3 holes at the end and the valve was STUCK. No flow of fuel, thus my idle circuit was clogged via the anti diesel solenoid. Had some specialize drill bits numering from tiny to about 65 / 70 and was able to take apart the valve end, and it then functioned again after using the reeming bit to clean it out and remove the barbs from the smashed overtightened portion. Installed a copper washer gasket to correct the whole issue. Checked after my fix and it again had flow. Install anti diesel solenoid, put things back together, and it has idle circuit back. Did i mention also the choke spring was in backwards the way the carb arrived to me. It was acutally pulling choke closed when hot, not open, so that had to be fixed as well. going to see if i can get arrange to get a replacement solenoid valve, since this was damaged when i received the Carb unit. anyhow, it does run and idle etc now after much work, but the fact the anti diesel valve had arrived damaged, not sure if it even works correctly, but we got the flow open again so at least the carb idles the BRAT. found the problem and was able to fix mostly. brent

okay that has been blocked by a quarter. My choke coil spring was in backwards, as it warmed up the spring was closing the choke door completely, not opening it. And when I reversed the spring to open the correct way, the carb will not idle with choke open. Something is messed up in the idle low speed section in the carb. The way it is now, i have the idle screw all the way in for it to stay running, and that is with the choke door still closed. once it the choke opens, no run. I adjusted it back so the choke stays closed, and i got back home from parents. this carb has problems, pm sent to help.

for the quarter block off trick, my BRAT was a hitachi feedback and the asv is only on the driver side head. I still have all my CATS and don't want to risk fouling them. will the blocking off with a quarter have drastic affects on my cats? I was thinking of fitting the open end of the big tube with a filter of some sorts so it can still breathe. Whats the right thing to do on a Brat with the cats still? block it with quarter, or add airbreather filter to end?

at least you dont have this one, which i had to search for, i thought maybe you bought the one in this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93179&highlight=baja+dies+mountains but that was a 06 model baja. good luck though.

okay the Weber is now installed on my 85 BRAT. I got a couple questions. What the heck do i do with the Air Suction Valve which is located over by the driver side head, it has a big vacuum line like the valve cover breather size of line, and it has a small vacuum line off the other part of it? I ran the car a little tonight with the asv valve open which is sucking air. decided needed to find the right way to finish this. help is appreciated. Only a few little issues. Not sure my choke is working correctly. But it runs with a Weber....so i will be happy when i get the asv thing sorted out I also need to redo my vac advance, as i have it off the manifold now, reason is the nipple off the front of the weber is a larger diameter than the stock vac dvance hose size, so i need to find a way to couple that together......any ideas? When i first started it, the idle went high. started looking around and the throttle end holder (lead sinker thing on the cable) was hitting the linkage, so i had to put a washer behind the throttle control so it would clear. lost my camera so i guess no pics right now.

I would like to know what has to be done to the EA flywheel to bolt it on a EJ crankshaft. redrill the flywheel?

check all vacuum lines. also, does your car have a IAC valve. If so, might need to clean it with sea foam. The Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) can get gummed up or sticky, nd that can cause a high idle, least that is the case on the newer Legacy's Again I don't have experience with your engine, but if it does have a IAC check itand use sea foam.

you should put a weber on it, no MAF...... okay enough of my smart idea. Get the MAF clean and stuff with some CRC MAF cleaner be careful with it. might have to reset the ecu. No more water holes. Hope you can get this right. Might need a junkyard run to get a replacement MAF. I hope you get Guido back up and running correctly. Oh, and put a llama in your life.

cool. as always, you guys get all the deals of non rust bucket Subaru's

MAF cleaner is the recommended thing to clean the maf with CRC makes it i believe on the shelf next to the engine degreaser, PBBlaster, and stuff we usually go in for. Pricey stuff and it takes quite bit of it, want to be thorough

if goodyear timing belts wear as poorly as GoodYear tires do, better get something else at all cost. I have never seen a good GoodYear tire.

any more updates? been quiet on here lately.

think its the T25 in the "tamper proof" variety of flavors.

any aftermarket thermostat is "bad" get a real one in there.

take off doors. weld some tubing onto the hinges and essentially make your own roll bar door.

80-90 miles tow at 60mph would have surely killed the pump to the tranny.

I would be willing to chop my parts Brat in half and sell the rear portion to someone to do this the right way.

1 groundhog is better than having 2 of them. This could be the making of the next Subaru TV commercial, like the ones of "love its what makes a Subaru a Subaru and the getting mud on one and rain washing it clean..... Kinda like the KIA commercial with the Hamster/gerbil excersise wheels....

after the overheat, do you have to top off the coolant and if so how much. Once topped off, until the next overheat, do you then have to add more coolant again after overheat. Any green puddles that taste yummy on the ground where you park the car? When the HG were replaced last year, who did them, Subaru, or a shop and did they install the newly designed OEM subaru HG? It is the thermostat and maybe more. First thing to due is toss the aftermarket Thermostat and put in a OEM from Subaru. thats issues number one. My opinion is it is the HeadGasket, again.

I am pondering bringing my 1991 Honda civic Si hatch out of retirement - storage. I bought it back in 2002? when it had 57,000 miles. pretty much put it in storage since then, but did drive it from CO to IA and back to CO. then when I moved from CO to Iowa, it made the drive . I think the mileage is now about 67,000. Since then its been in storage except when I had both legacy's down for transmission repairs and took it out a week back in 2007. I started the Civic last fall (2008)and drove it around the block, then back to the garage and cover on. the gas in the tank is now 2 or 3 years old from when i drove it the week in 2007. I plan to drain it out with the drain plug this weekend. And then put some fresh in it and start this sucker. Its a B****tch to get the car out of my garage i have it parallel parked at the front of my 2 stalls. I have to jack up the rear and use the jack to maneuver the car out. Anyhow, I am thinking of driving it for a month or so this summer to keep the thing from dying. The oil in it i think is still pretty fresh from 2005 or maybe 2007 will have to look at my records, but it cant have but 900 miles on the oil, but I may change it and the filter. Gotta see how far i get with my Weber install to see if i can get it out of retirement this weekend or next.

that post has nothing to do with shift linkages.