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bheinen74

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Everything posted by bheinen74

  1. now the pics of the start. http://s405.photobucket.com/albums/pp132/bheinen74/BRAT%20weber%20install/
  2. nice job I bet that was a jubilating ah, the uncertain and unknown. Hopefully there won't be that many bugs at least not major ones. again, my BRAT is in the garage without an intake or carb on the motor. Got the Iowa Indy race this weekend so mine will be not moving til another week when i get the remaining parts and the time to put things back together. Good job to see you had it runnning. Such a long wait.
  3. think the 205/75/15 Bjaa widetrack AT is what i have, made by Peerless i believethey are 27.65 inches tall inflated
  4. did you check under the white one in the same spots for rust this time around?
  5. so far my only question is for the stock coolant passage run thru the old intake and how it all hooks up on the new, since the weber doesnt need that. Do i still hook the coolant hose off the top back side of water pump water run near the driver side, to the intake inlet. And was the brittle glass like hose which goes to the top of the block near the passenger side is that the coolant hose too, and does it still get hooked up to the nipple on the intake front As far as I know the carb coolant base plate was epoxied/welded shut. thanks
  6. I started my carb swap tonight on my 85 BRAT. The weber setup which just arrived from JerryDemoss in a nice box yesterday is almost ready to go on. What i purchased from Jerry is a rebuilt Weber, with a complete intake manifold so I could keep my old hitachi setup if I ever wanted to return it to bone stock. Also, he ported the intake to adapter plate so its a better matchup. The Weber has a new antidiesel solenoid too, and Jerry is quite the pro, all the wires on the choke/antidiesel are nicely labeled etc. Just rally impressed with what the box contained. So, for the last 4 or so days i have been spraying down my old intake bolts with PB blaster after reading all the horror stories of broken intake bolts when trying to remove them. I have sprayed them with the PBblaster and driven short distances hoping the heat would work the solution down into the threads some. After reading a few threads on here that recommended to "jolt/shock the bolt heads, I did that as well with a small punch and hammer. Again, more PBblaster. Then, I started the engine and let it run about 5 minutes, enough that when i touched the intake it felt hot, the temp guage was just starting to climb about halfway to normal. Shut the car off, spray some more PBblaster, and it sizzled. Okay, time to slowly test the bolts. First one moved, off to the next one, moved but not quite as nicely. then the third. Pretty tight, sprayed some more then off to the other side. about the same. got them to turn just enough, more PBblaster. off to the other side, more blaster. and check the 2 tightest ones, turn them back in the 1/8th turn, more spray then back out the 1/8th turn maybe a little more. more spray. they were turning. Anyhow, got them all nice and loose, decided now was the time to drain the coolant from the radiator, and while it was draining to pull off the stock aircleaner kidney bean. Started unhooking stuff, wires for the coil, distributor, plug wires etc. Time to pull off the manifold. notice a hose that was like glass (breather tube on top side of block) it needs to get replaced the thing basically exploded. Off with the manifold. noticed one intake side had some crud that fell down, oops, find the vacuum attachment to suck that out. Stuff intake openings in heads with towel rag. Begin the cleaning process, wiping off the excess pbblaster, crud etc. most is looking nice and shiny with a brass bristle brush helping. It was late, i came in and ended up locking my garage with the door down, and the keys are still in the Brat ignition. waiting on my neighbor with the spare to come over so i can get my keys back out of the locked garage. more to come later. I am tired.
  7. i do the same, well not keeping track of the actual numbers, but its a catchy thing to do. whats up with that avatar pic.
  8. I think the coupe will work better, no back door issues I figured someone would want to get my parts Brat to weld onto their car.
  9. thanks GD. now i can go break the intake bolts off......... or not.
  10. this question will be quick and easy i hope. I got a used intake for my Weber carb, both will be replacing the stock hitachi and stock intake. I was looking things over, the stock intake temperature sender (located on the intake runner near the thermostat housing)has 2 prongs for the wire plug on the car. the replacement i am using has 1 prong on the sensor. So my question is will the 1 prong one be okay. Its my guess that the feedback carb model had the 2 prongs, one for the guage and one for the computer; and that the non feedback had the single prong. So, since I am going Weberized, can i use the 1 pronger and not harm anything, or will i need to swap sensors.. If you go to rockauto and pull up their cooling section on the 85 Brat they show temp sender in both sinlge prong and one with 2 prong. Will my BRAT be okay using only the single pronger sender when i go weberized thanks
  11. ooh, sounds nice even for daily driven lifted Brats??????????????? details needed
  12. looking for someone who has this optional accesory item "B" http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/literature/brochures/1980-euro-extras-4.jpg
  13. the labor rates must be really high there.......... and your question on resurfacing.....if he is resurfacing the "clutch" as you state, he is a moron. Its the flywheel that is the part that would get resurfaced, when you install a new clutch disc. Also, this is a good time to find and fix any oil leaks you have. I would ask around for better rates and ask for other CA members here who might want to help out and earn some buck.
  14. 6 screws. 2 on each side and 2 down by the shifter console surround at the bottom.
  15. do the fender flares in black too, kinda like the way they do 2 tones on the outbacks around the fender arches, that will help you out on the rust too its kinda like adding options to Guido......its improving everyday....from what i see.
  16. yeah like the lower front frame rails and the rocker panels would make my parts Brat be okay.
  17. that seems okay. now how about shipping. and arent they still avaiable new? that would not even require time to box them up, just buy, collect money, and ship.
  18. descriptions on these old cars are not enough. pictures are required for the outside and inside and engine bay for anyone to determine anything.
  19. its debatable whether this beats my 9.00 for 3 SVX 16" alloy wheels with tires bid that won. I had to drive 250 one way to pick them up.... Or, the New rebuilt never used still in carton with pallet strap around it so i knew it was not used, EA81 Alternator for 1.50 plus the 12 for shipping.
  20. long live the pugs. Oh, and put a llama in your life.
  21. Can never have enough of these laying around in my parts of the country where we dont have any EA81 in the junkyards right now. Who did i bid against? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290321858455&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT#ht_500wt_1126 pretty cheap i think.
  22. your pics link is The page you requested is no longer here [error 404 as much flexing of the chassis I would think the cracking of a Deltron would be a issue. It sure looks great and shines but it cannot flex without chipping/cracking. The BRAT chassis has lots of flex, something to consider.
  23. hey nice. Do you have any interest in shipping some Aussie parts from down under to the northies? I would love a set of those 14" sunraysa's
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