bheinen74

again, timing.

^ that was enough for that day. but not to worry, am doing that now, cheers beers. it is chitty beer cause i am broke.

changed the alternator for the 3rd time in the last 4 days. 1st one got noisy in the bearing in the cold. So i removed it the past weekend when it was warm and put one on from my shelf. the other day it then drove it 8 miles to get beer. Getting back into the car, noticed turned over slower than normal. Proceed to drive back home with my beer. snow was blowing, wipers were a little slow about 5 miles from home, radio pops on and off. turn off headlights and the fan.... i know this, been there done it, oh can i make it. starts loosing power on the hill, turn off the rear defrost, power comes back to make the hill. only 3.75 miles to go. Windchill is like -5. car does make it back to town, i drop my friend off, and then, it is dead.... good thing he lives 2 blocks away. I jog back home. grab a spare battery and my other car, drive the battery back. warm up at friends house, then swap battery, friend follows me back home, park car. today, i put in the other spare alternator i had on the shelf. pulled out the one that didn't charge and labeled it with sharpie... charged the battery i drained and it is back in, will see. still have to mark the one that charged as "noisy bearing". Also went with my dad to look at a 06 outback advertised as 3988 price on Monday. Yesterday was blizzard and interstate closed to DM where the car was, so we went today for mom to look at it. They drove it home today. they joined the high mileage club, 290k miles on it.

if i were you, the best advice i can give is take the autozone ones back before you take them out of the boxes, and ask for money back. then go buy either MWE, or EMPI. Even though you have lifetime warranty on them, they are a joke from autozone. You will not regret taking them back and getting some good ones. Read the threads on this.

after assembly, one could theoretically make quite a few lift kits by chopping up on of these........ I would bet about 14 lift kits or so...

Whatever you do, do not break off anything hardened steal on the other end too. You will be in situation twice as bad if that happens. Yeah they installed it off 180, and sounds like they broke off a punch end halfway on the other end... Did you buy MWE, or what brand for axles? There are 2 brands that work, and ALL the other brands are junk.

http://www.indysworld.com/80s/ some links are broken some still fine.

because anything on the lug nuts will throw off the real torque value, even with the best torque wrench. Good, clean threads is what you want.

oh, and post pics, we like pics, To post a picture, the picture has to be hosted on another site already, like photobucket, flickr, etc, then once it is on the other site, you link to it using the "insert image" above, the copy the link..

I have been surprised the number of cars i have bought that someone obviosly has no idea they were WAY overtorqeing them. Some cars, people who put the wheels on obviously should not be doing wheel installs were. You shouldn't have to use cheater bars or stomp on the lug method to bust them loose, that is WAY too tight. The torque value is there for many reasons, 1. to prevent hub distortion. that keeps bearings happy. 2. The average little old lady if got a flat tire would have no chance in cold hell to change a tire in the middle of nowhere if they are torgued above the spec number. 3. Stripped threads on the lug nuts 4 stripped threads on the stud 5 .broken off wheel studs, 6. 7. 8, 9. and while we are on the topic, you should never put oil or antiseize on the lugnut studs. If the threads are rusty, you use a tap/die chase them to clean, but never apply any product You can, and should apply a little ring of antisievze around the wheel round center of aluminum wheels where they center around the hub, so they will not be frozen stuck in a salty rust prone area.

have you looked at the front frame rails? normally it is in bad taste to knock on anyone personally, not doing that, but there are a few threads we arleady discussed this car long before you bought it, threads of seeing it posted for sale and we all had out own opinions, mostly that is was a rusty hunk of steel.

yeah a door "bottom half would be nice. The tops here dont rust, but the bottom from the belt molding strip down rust, something in fiberglass to cap the bottom half would be nice...I wouldnt want entire door, just the bottom half inside and out cap. or maybe entire door would be okay maybe.

seller was asking like 2100 for a car we normally see sell for 400 bucks, rusty hunk. I crushed one that the body was like 50 times nicer on.

^exactly. and when things get warm in there, things expand, you don't want it packed full of grease, it will blow your seals out.

probably timing belts. well, the one on the passenger side likely is snapped.

too soon to say, "EJ22 swap" ? they never really had a HG issue. Rock on ej22:headbang: And, please, I hope Subaru is watching the USMB posts, and that they ditch the ej25 and that dreaded HG issue.

fuse thermostat oem not aftermarket, only use oem coolant flush etc.

well, the covers protect from the engine bay heat getting directly to the belt, and from the radiator heat soak directly in front of the belt I would check the idler bearings for smooth rolling. What kind of belts are you using? I know a belt is rubber. Storing a tire in plastic helps it from cracking due to exposure to the ozone in the air, I think the belt cover protects the rubber on the belt too. stirring a can of worms i bet.

You said you have plastic covers. Do you mean plastic lens vs the glass style, or do you mean covers.. what about taking the headlight covers off in the winter? Another option if not the cover issue, is to use rain-x or a high quality wax that repels water and moisture. Some good waxes repel water drops and so it would be hard for anything to stick.

YES, a JDM trans has different ratio. I re-read your post. You have a JDM trans in there, then your ratio is wrong// You need to test this with the car off the ground, all four corners on jackstands. see if you get buttery smooth disengagement. If so, then verify gear ratio is same. verify tires are same. If same, then all is normal. You are not supposed to shift in and out of 4wd when on dry pavement or non slipping surfaces. meaning gravel is ok to shift in and outm same on snow or ice, Not on dry pavement. The owners manual should clearly state this.

In the US, we never got the sidemarker lights, so we will have to have some sidemarkers shipped from somewhere to go in the spot. Do you plan to sell the side lights too? if so, I will likely buy set of left/right fender pairs.

There are 2 likely causes of the clutch pack going out on yours. 1. Car was towed with rear wheels down at some point 2. Someone put new tires on either end of the car and left old tires on the other end of car, and drove like that for a few thousand miles. 3. drove with the fuse in the AWD holder. I am making a note on my table, to go out tomorrow and install a label over the fuse that says "DO NOT put fuse in here". may save the future owner some greivance.

not enough info. Is your car a outback, or more imporantly, is your engine DOHC or SOHC. Maybe the engine is not the same the car came with. Maybe the dealership gave you wrong headgaskets. Please state your engine DOHC or SOHC, and give the part numbers for the headgaskets you used. Did you put on new intake manifold gasket? sounds like you pressed in the rear main incorrectly, so the engine will be coming back out for that too. Once the rear main install is botched, it goes in the trash you buy a new seal, install as above note. Did you replace the rear separator cover too? If not, add that to your list of should do if it is the leaking type, again dependent on if the engine is not the original etc, it could have plastic or metal cover you want to put it back in the car with the metal style cover on your engine. You said you used the haynes manual...... *** I don't think I would use that manual, you should be going with the Subaru newest specs from the dealer for torque procedure on the headbolts. The haynes is likely old values, if they even had it right to begin with. (the haynes was based on the original style gasket, of which you know has changed, it is unlikely the haynes has updated anything on that, where the dealer has updates)

Either one or both of the rubber hood stoppers are out of adjustment, the striker is needing adjusted, the latch needs adjusted, or it is wearing out from the constant opening shutting. Brake cleaner is not the right thing to spray. You should spray white lithium grease on it, it should have some gummy residue. It prevents rusting too.

tried it just now, got 500 internal server error. I am a member there too.