bheinen74

I've always only emailed back and forth

Did you look under the fusebox under the hood? I think there have been others that got there car back working after replacing the main box, if wires going into are OK. Wish you luck.

did you get insurance? have matches?

might have to junk it if the main fuse did not blow. check the fuse box under the hood. Probably one of the BIG fusable links, they "should" blow in this case. If so, you will be fine. If the fuse there did not blow, than you fried the harness, ecu, alternator, starter, ignition switch, lights, fans, radio,etc, meaning, cheaper to junk it.

this might be a sign of what us 2nd gen Brat owners will see in a few more years. Meaning, parts might be pretty hard to start getting. Better stock up now while they are still available. Won't be long, and no more parts even from rockauto.

That looks like a blast. Have you ever seen a bigfoot up there.

kinda like a shock absorber axle, if one could be made it would have been already done i would think. Hmmm any one with know how to try.?

sell you mine for 8500

i still have not figured out a way to hook the AC back up after lift kit install. Just so you know. -The belt on the AC compressor after the lift, will run right into the lower radiator hose. The compressor on mine still sits in its stock location, but there is no hope in making a belt go back on it, and not inerfere with either the hose, or the frame rail, or both. This is going to take some serious fab work on a guide pulley to push the belt up or down from where the radiator hose is. Everyone on here said it can ba done, but every picture i see, shows the compressor, like mine, mounted, but no BELT on it. thus no AC.

Okay, so heres the story. SVX security module is behind the glovebox, and mine is acting up so i needed to unhook, and maybe replace the security module. I have removed glove boxes from the following cars at least: 1964 chevelle 1979 monte carlo 1991 crx 1994 civic 1991 civic 1985 Brat 1992 legacy 1994 legacy 1993 infiniti g20 1986 bmw 325 (had to clean the mouse nest and rinse the pee out) AND today, the 92 SVX. My gosh, it is a booger in comparison. Now, usually there are like 10/12 screws etc. I estimate the SVX has 25 screws, and when you have what you think all removed, no, there are hidden screws that took like 2 hours to find. Still no ready to come out, more hidden screws. holy cow, contorted, neck stiff, head sideways, finally, all but out. Then the hinge stopper arm thin that is part of the switch for the light, well it can't come loose either. well i got the module out, and pulled it apart. ignoring the "warning warranty void if removed" sticker. anyhow, here is a pic of the module all apart. http://s405.photobucket.com/albums/pp132/bheinen74/security/ i am letting it sit removed from car for a day to see if it will work.

also the Hatch, up thru like 89. its the hatch with 4wd hi/lo and ea81 this will not be an easy find. all he used ones are torn up too...

you need one listed as fitting a 83-84 gl. those will be same as 84-87 Brat. the ones you see for 85-86GL is the newer wagon GL )not Brat GL) which is newer than the Brat bumper style.

there should not require any force at all, lots of little wiggles and turns, until it falls into place without force.. kinda like a puzzle, the pieces have to fit in exactly at the right spots...you have to turn itty bits at a time, and slightly jiggle while rotating, it will finally go into place.

well, i happen to think the ej22 94 and older is a much better engine in all aspects (non interference, no head gaskets blowing, no rod knock, on on on) than the "quality" and "HG" and rod knock, and bearing issues and such other issues of todays EJ25 engine. If subaru wants to make a reliable engine, then they will do so again. Its just been many years since we can honestly say they made an engine that lasted 300K. Shawn, you said it is easy to fix the HG, and i agree, a HG job is cheap and easy. But, what about the heat and stress and what it does to the bottom end at the time of the overheting many times. Subaru will paly this off as a bad thermostat-PLAIN WRONG. Then they play it off as a bad radiator. WRONG. then they say it has to be a bad water pump-WRONG again, get the picture. By this time, the engine is COOKED, WELL DONE, over. Sure a HG is cheap, but the engine is TOAST. Better to throw in a 250k EJ22 block and be done, never to have a HG problem again. rant over. I would bet my entire car on the fact a outback will be in the shop with engine tear down 3 times more than a pre-95 ej22 with similar mileages......that is not RIGHT. that is why so many of us will avoid new Subarus until they get this FIXED.

i bet that SVX is a scam, ie that is not the real selling price, that why its been so long. I see same cars over and over on ebay too....scams. ie i bet i give you a 100 and you still cant buy that car for 4800

if you found a svx with 28k for less than 8g you should have bought it.

so if they pull you over you can claim they are stereotyping based on this report....

my ej22 did pretty fine when cold, then like poo when warming up and after. was Tbelt skipped.

i think your timing belt is a tooth skipped.....

yep. i had it on vid.

i would put a new HG on the side its blown, and drive it for another 52k. Nice score, I saw the ebay listing right after auction ended, or it would be in my drive. we would have had a bidding war, but i was too late auction over, done errrr. I need a rust free body low miles to put my ej22t in from my RUSTY 92.......

make sure you aren't driving with the Ebrake on, err, i mean check for brakes dragging, calipers free moving....

engineers usually learn from their mistakes.....at some point.

better keep it for offer to the first person to put a Diesel Boxer into a Brat when we finally get the bits