bheinen74

even the FSM is wrong, case in point torque spec for 91-94 legacy crank pulley bolt, they show it incorrect, and there have been many issues due to it being wrong.

you need a hood and aircleaner, it will just get dirt and feces in there without a aircleaner cover.

but i would have thought the CTS from EJ over on driver side would suffice...

well if you can powder coat the clutch fork, which i see you did via photo, then might as well....never mind, wow nice nice build are you selling or trading when its done? my brat would be up for trade if so, possibly,

HOLY CRAP....nice

thats the plan but when? all the Brat needs for WCSS is a clutch..... which is still on the kitchen table, i double checked part number and its right for me BRAT.......get er done........ need a help hand

they are hella fast, watch out for the turbo spool up and letting up on gas before the spool up, still gaining speed with accelerator let up, cause it can toss you for a ride not worth reckoning. Basically, if you go full throttle down, it takes some reaction of the turbo and before you know to let up, it could be too late and you will be out of control on a slide.

more i think, i might just throw a clutch in, and let her ride......til something fails so i can go e22t swap.....yay the whole plan for when i got this BRAT was a donor ej22t from my rusty 92 into the non rusty BRAT, bought site unseen beers edit, BEN, yeah for sure the 92 will be smashed in a few years. trying to get some more out of it though// never seen a BRAT do the 0-60 in like 5 or 1/4 in 14.5 that will be fun.

cv's are CAKE. speaking of going to 5spd, is the 4 spd DR/EA81 clutch kit workable with a 5spd DR to EA81 swap? wuts the drive ratio for the 5spd out of say, a 87/89 Gl wagon wth 5spd D/R

that reminds me, should i 5 spd DR swap now

shock or shock mount...

agreed, and, the only time i wanted to pull the motor was for my 92ss EJ22T donation......which is not quite yet. but in a few years. I guess i will pull the ea81 up and do the seal repairs and clutch and such...... and not think about the ej22t swap until my 92 finally rusts in half...which it is getting closer and closer to the day.

is that a new longblock as in crate motor.

i would think put it underneath, where would you put the dogs if otherwise.

most car makers have a era of like 4 years of really good stuff. Subaru in my opinion had 81-85 the ea81 and the 91-94 ej22, and maybe 2005+ Honda, the 89-91 era were really good quality, went cheap in 92-96 and then strong again now Mazda had an era of good in the early 90's and now Toyota, all are pretty good. Chrysler, has an era back to the sixties, of crap Ford, mostly crap, but now they have bluetooth and crap Chevy, has a good truck. etc etc

Jason D used to work at 1st subaru (Auburn Subaru) but he now works at Mike Scarff Subaru. Jason is excellent, and I tip my hat to him. He must have left when things were headed downhill, and so those that used to order from 1stsubaru, need to change there ordering if they want the same service we came to expect. Give Jason a call at Mike Scarff

i have the idea that Chrysler, GM, and Ford all make their vehicles to just "survive" up to the warranty expiration. They don't make them with longevity/miles in mind, other than make it work til warranty miles. After it reaches that, well, thats all it was designed for. Owner will sell at that point to buy another new car. This is why the junkyards are overfilled with Ford, GM and Chryslers, with not that many miles on them. They fail after warranty, and parts to repair after warrranty, warrant a scrap. bh

no loud lifters, its a 85 BRAT, hydro yeah... but i do have oil leaks, and i have new stuff to seal it, including new valve cover gaskets, new oil pan gasket, rear main seal etc. similar discussion, but on my SVX, I cant even see or reach the transmission to engine bolts etc. that thing has no space to put a hand, or tool, or anything. that will suck to work on. Luv the BRAT

i don't think any axle can take that angle coming right off the diff. O / . \ | . | the "o" means diff the / \ are axles the | | are tires

forgot one more thing, remove axle roll pins....slide off axles... is there a clutch pitch fork removal necesary, or does it slide off the snout of the tranny.

pretty sure the LSD chunk in the SVX is different like where the axle stubs are. Axles on the SVX are a total alien they are bigger, splines different/reversed, different spline count on inputs etc. I might be wrong.

First off, I have done Legacy clutch replacements... In comparison, of my initial look at what this will take, I noticed what looks like bolts with nuts on the bellhousing/engine/tranny. On a Legacy, its studs with nuts. Is my assumption correct on the bolts going all the way thru? Also since my BRAT has a 4 inch lift, it looks as if that i should borrow my Dad's transmission jack, simply get some pressure under the tranny in a balance with the brackets supporting the tranny, and just start unfastening the tranny from engine. It looks as if, once unfastened there, i could undo the support mounts and basically slide the tranny up and back a little, up the 4 inch it dropped due to lift kit. Then, there should be room enough to service the clutch etc. Looks as if the exhaust can stay put, and it looks like the time involved should only take like 5 hours total. Am I totally wrong on this? basically instead of pulling the tranny out and down, unfasten and slide up the 4 inches and slide back a little. should allow to get in to the clutch i would think. engine stays put, exhaust stays put, speedo cable stays put, etc. comments are welcome.

it uses air deflection to keep rear car tire spray back from going to the glass, as the above states.

If your brat is lifted, you can put a larger tank from a FWD vehicle in there. IT is 2 gallons bigger, due to no hump recess for a rear diff. If you lifted yours, the diff will clear the non humped fwd tank.

my 92SS is literally starting to have pieces fall off it. rocker panels and doors, quarter panels, big holes. why the good cars are sitting in the garage for winter. once it gets holes in it in lots of places, its better to locate a rustfree car from out west and ship it to you, if you like the year of car and style you have, dont even try to find one local to replace it with, gotta look to the west.