bheinen74

dynamat was awesome in my CRX....doors, floor, sides, under the headliner, not a single spot was not covered. kept road noise down too.

you really shouldn't tighten without a torque wrench. If you go too tight, you can damage bearings, warp the hub etc......if you go too loose, well just find a tq wrench and check it please.

Nice honor for you and the car. looks good again.

mazda rx-7 rear diff???????

probably have to drill the center opening to bigger

so the car overheats? and eats coolant? and the owner took it to shop where they replaced the valve cover gaskets? I am lost on this one

yeah true. I just put in the Hella H4 "sealed to h4 conversion lenses" for my hi/lows. wow.....very bright so now i need to replace my hi only lens too, as the oems on high are dimmer than the hellas on low beam lol.

do not touch the bulbs with anything. .....maybe thats why they were both burned out.

thread opener says it has a Cummins engine.

yep must use premium on a subaru turbo engine.

broken fleplate

the 91-94 legs were notorious for the connector under the backseat to melt/corrode. that connector is the power and ground for the fuel pump. Need to def check that out under the backseat....

call this one a loss, and get a replacement engine.....sorry about the incompetency of the belt job you ended up bending over for....what a bad way to go out...nevber go back to that mechanic again, if you see him on the street, run away the other way.

if you love the design of a car that is rusted badly, go to west coast, find the same car, buy it, drive it for many many more years...rust is a cancer, once it is bad, like yours is, it is more costly to fix than go find a non rusted one. Rust is cancer, and it will never be gone, and it comes back even faster the second round.

not odd to us. Our cars came with 13" wheels only, nothing bigger from the factory. Jeeps, well they obviously don't put 13" wheels on....but we know the point you are making its all good

going 78mph with both front doors open not good. but wow.

Yeah that one always had 15 legacies and like 10 EA cars, and a bun ch more probably avergaged 40 subies every time i went there.

Nearly impossible retro fit project, and will probably never function properly. Not worth the money, time, effort. besides, if your normal brakes are in proper repair, they should stop shorter than ABS.

its a combo of the block design for sure. closed deck ej22T yay.

ah, here in the states we will be about 4-5 years out from getting a 3 cylinder again. too many car buyers want Ipod, dvd, gazzillion cup holders, GPS nav, starbucks coffeee dispenser, BIG wheels, etc, the garbage, instead of simpleness.

take your camera, i miss seeing all the subie's in love next to one another in the CO junkyards. show me what i missed by moving to iowa

think it was lucas makes diff oil that is compatible with lsd dffs.

umm. i am in shock too. that sucks big time. you think mice chewing the wires shorted it then? Hey, if by any chance the shift lever rod, what the knob screws onto, is in any way still straight, could i get that form you. When I torch heat bent mine after the lift, i pretty much put a crack in the one, and I am scared to keep driving it that way.

I would imagine, even if there is no steel there, that you could place flat steel on the other side where the self tap screw /bolts go up into the bumper. the long flat steel will reinforce it quite noticeable.

if you have just a few small holes to fill in, use glazing paste, it comes in a tube, looks like toothpaste, dont advise teeth brushing with it though. It quick dries, and sands nicely. use a piece of plastic to smooth it out, or a putty nife.