bheinen74

and i am sure there are some people running different brands of plugs in each cylinder bank. In general, Subarus will always run great on NGK. throw in some other plugs, most people have had or developed issues, all traced back to not having NGK. BTW NGK plugs are 1.53 each here.

you will be looking for a total of 4 connectors that are loose. connect the connectors of the same color to complete the circuit, like one is ground, one is signal.

the connectors are single prongs. they connectors, 1 is probably tucked up close to the ecu, it might be zip tied/ electral taped to keep it from hanging down. The Wires are VERY short. the other connector is likely to be located more over behind the cig lighter.

93 leg computer is on drivers side tucked up way above the hood release lever, by the fuse box. its not on the passenger side foot well. if your car is an automatic, it will have the transmission computer which is up there too.

I will get you going in the right direction hopefully. All you need to do is connect 2 separate wire connectors under the dash. Then the codes will be blipped out on the dash's check engine light when those connectors are connected. One connector has green connectors. The other connector is black. Single wires.......on each.

i really like this hatch. if you ever choose to sell it, i want to be first in line.

it's a great thing when 20+year old car's are getting better mpg's than the newest cars......

go do this test. Go get a bicycle with a nicely balanced front wheel. Now, glue a bunch of lead weights to the left side of the tire, rim, all around the tire. Now try to ride the bike. That is the same principal as when you lighten the one side of the crankshaft. enough said done

total waste of money to put a different pulley on. You will in fact throw off the factory balance from front to rear of the crank. It weighs what it does as to keep the weight balance from the rear flywheel/torque converter balanced with the front of the crank. Its the same principal as a spinning toy top, or a bicycle wheel. You don't want to remove weight/mass from one side and not the other. If you remove weight/mass from one end only, it throws it off, like a spinning top that wobbles. that wobble is hard on bearings, etc. YOU ARE ADDING STRAIN. . now, if you replace the flywheel/torque converter with lightweight to counter balance, then go ahead, otherwise you are just wasitng money.

going thru iowa on I-80?

I think they look about the same as the 205/75/15 on my brat now, they measure 27.6 inch tall i believe.

por-15 use gloves, goggles, long sleeves etc, cause you do end up wearing it whereever it goes. A quart of that stuff covered the entire underside of a Brat. it goes a long ways, probably dont need a gallon.

also, a sandblaster does a good job of getting the rust out, then make sure you use a rust "inhibitor product" something that essentially neutralizes the rust and stops further growth. 3M Rust Fighter ??? is a spray that does this, i not sure on exact name, but it turn metal black as it dissolves the rust. and there are many other products too. DO NOT USE RUST OLEUM *** very bad as no automotive paints are compatible with it and paint will lift off it. make sure you use Primer/Sealer, not just primer, it has to had primer/sealer listed on the can. rotary air tools/grinders make quick work of getting the rust out. plan to coat the bare metal with the rust inhibitor and then primer sealer asap, you don't want air to contact the bare metal for very long.

take off the front fender splash shields, they are up in that area, follow the yellow wires. did you replace the Airbag control module, in center console? That is a must also.

i am interested in a hail SVX too, cause i have a parts car avail to me with new hood, good other panels and glass.

somehow create a "hole with reinforcement collar" on the plate and thru the hole you could get a socket extension to reach the drain plug straight on.

i would be interested in EA81 for 85 Brat with 4 inch lift. Are you going to allow access to the oil drain plug, and oil filter?

says the brat will be turning 15,425 rpm in 1st low at 60mph. weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee:banana: kaboom

works, i havent figured that out yet either.

to replace both. Get dirty one time and be done with it. Or get dirty once. get dirty another day when you have to replace the other. This wil depend on what brand axles you use? I recommend Subaru brand or MWE rebuilder. you can find links for mwe axles here somewhere. I replaced both my fronts with MWE cause I wanted to know both were done at same time piece of mind.

fuel pump

wonder what the story is on the overturned wagon? nice shots .

maybe it was spliced so it could also accept a good digi dash, or also analog, maybe they left old connectors attached too.

Well, today i took off the front fenders and trimmed them up some. Seemed to take care of the clearance issues. hated to chop them up, but the Brat seems happy now when i turn the wheels and it isn't eating tire lugs now. to do list now includes: putting the LSD guts into the rear diff case and piecing back together. finishing the shifter part- anyone got a spare shifter lever, when i heat bent mine it cracked and i want to try a different approach. mounting the 5th tire on a rim and mounting a Geo Tracker spare carrier to my tailgate. WEBER purchase and install. Find some dirt mud roads which there are quite a few only a few miles from home.

i don't think i should bash up mine just yet.