bheinen74

try getting parts in iowa. its special order only, and you gotta wait for the first part to get in next day, its wrong, wait the next part to try come in day after, wrong, wait again. . takes like a week to get the right one finally. sounds like you got it made, that they have parts in stock out there...wish we had that kinda parts here. this is why i would rather pay shipping from west coasters.....and get my part shipped next day on the way that is correct.

okay, then shine that coupe up for the summer. keep posting pics.

it does look good, and you are making it look even better but you are gonna cause greavance with these 2 statements you have made "but..the paint is so faded that I wont be able to match..so it will be getting a complete repaint at some point." and the last statement " Car goes to detailer Friday to be compounded and buffed and shined..Just trying to make it good for the Carlisle Import Show...after that the real work will beginof " Never put wax on a car before you are planning to get any paint work done to it........ask a autobody person on this one and they can show you why....or tell you why...and not just because it fills the sandpaper, but it causes fish eyes....etc...and flaking paint sometime down the road...trust me......don't go get the thing buffed/waxed....

yeah i will make offer on lsd if someone pulls it.

put it up on jackstands, engine running, in gear, they willl see all 4 wheels turning, proves it has front and rear driveshafts....oh and that is is 4wd

maybe my old desktop support job is open at RNL Design. that place was a good place to work, I left because I moved after selling my house in denver.

i replaced one in my former 93 leg turbo. It is a 2 person job, i used piano wire with vise grips and gloves to cut out my old one, the piano wire kept breaking tho, that is how much heat builds up when slicing it out. Also, you have to use a sewing needle/sharp point to get a hole cut somewhere to start, to feed the piano wire threw. and here is a tip->be careful not to cut thru the headliner at the top of the window inside. all went pretty well, and it never leaked that i know of. prep the area, use a rust inhibitor on any scratches or nicks before you put in the replacement glass. when you only carry liablility insurance, this job is handy to know about

in all practicality, it will be better (and cheaper) to go get air bag control unit from a non-wrecked junk yard car. I got my whole bag, unit all for 50 shipped from a seller on one of these boards, so the unit alone shouldn't be but like 20 bucks, and that is lots cheaper than paying a dealer 85 to suggest you buy new. You can buy the tamper proof torx needed for this a well for like 10 bucks at sears.

probably will need different jets as a rule to start/

I would buy engines from them, based on my visit to there shop when I was living in Denver. They are an organized shop, everything is lined up on the shelves in order, etc. I saw a few of the engines they were tearing down/assembling, and I was amazed at the cleanliness of the operation. I was not visting the place for an engine, but did get a few parts off a car MMonson sent there, and also talked with the people there. From the looks of it, they definitely do engines correctly. Heck, even the subaru dealers in Denver get there engine work done there. The people they do employee are experts at subaru engines, period, and they know transmission assemblies well too.

I know a j/y in IA with pugs. i got my last 2 split spokes at the place, had to pay 50 each wheel with lug nutz.....very pricey, but no one had a sset willing to ship to me,

Happy Birthday.

I would suggest leaving the intake as is factory stock. Search on this, you will find most Boxer engines in the newer gen, will actually have better power curves with the stock intake intact... -exhaust is a good place to free up some power -lightweight crank pulley (notice lightweight stock diameter is the choice, not underdriven). are you going for looks too?

the ECU electrical connectors for D-check mode (diagnostic check) are probably connected. These are the connections up under the dash, near the ECU. probably 1 green single wire connectors, or 1 black single wire connector. disconnect them.

you said, "that you just changed the burned fluid out" above.... My friend, if you had burned fluid in there, you need to think about getting a new tranny.

i am surprised subaru factory does not provide identical full size spare on the new vehicles, that would be part of scheduled maintenance to rotate in with the others on a regular basis. This is one major downfall of having AWD, when a single tire requires replacement, it means getting all 4 new...... I looked over a year to find a tire with near tread wear on one i had to replace. But that was on a car that was not driven, til i found the tire.

if you look closely on the sidewalls of these "spares" you will see fine print reading just that.......they say something like, "temporary use only, do not exceed 45mph" ...etc

you better check on the sidewalls. last time i thought of using spares, one like yours, i read the sidewall closely: said not to exceed 45 mph, its a spare temp use tire only.

btw the wix, was 33021 on the box, but its not the same as your pic above. and the numbers on the filter dont say 33021. i think the wrong filter was in the box. my luck with parts is not good. the one my brat came with is small, black, and both inlet and outlet are on the same side of the filter. not 90 degree not 180 in and out, but they are both on the same side.....one above the other.

when they have play in them, the wobble, the bearings and seals are gonna get trashed because of the play. this will cause the seals to leak. Is yours leaking yet? if it is, you will probable not see drips near the pump, but rather back under the valve cover, engine mount area, based on what mine did when i bought it.

Went and carefully bought a Brat fuel filter -for the rear, near fuel pump, filter for my Brat. -Asked the saleperson to double check and make sure it was not the Fuel Separator. Made sure it had 1 inlet 1 outlet. I have read the so many problems. Well, when i went to remove my old filter today, it is REALLY REALLY small, and the one they give me doesn't even have the correct size inlets, or outlets. The one on my Brat now, looks really old. It is TINY small, like a thimble size or so.....The one the parts store gave me is about triple the size of the one near my fuel pump. it about the same size as the separator under the hood. I am going back tomorrow, but this kinda thing pisses me off. it was warm today, and not raining out, good day to change it. Rest of week weather is rainy and maybe snow.....My question is, is the filter by the pump supposed to be tiny small like that. It has 1/4" lines i do know that, is that even right. I am confuzzed at this point. Plus the numbers on the box the filter came in don't match any numbers i see on this new filter. if anyone has the correct part number for one they have used and was correct, chime in plz

agreed, nothing but horror stories around here no wal mart batts, even the high end ones. Myself included, on the high end. yeah it got replaced free, but after less than 1 yr of light use. next time, i will pay more for non walmart batteries and not have to replace it anytime soon

i would almost make a bet it was the "hose to the rack" that was leaking. is your dealer good at diagnosing, did you get a second opinion? If its too late and you replaced it, does the new one leak too? HOSE (why, cause an 03 is not gonna have a bad rack) also, do you do your own wrenching, cause the dealers make good money on this job, if you do it yourself you will save a grand.

my dad has 2 compressors (both are HUGE tall standing tanks, too tall to think about moving).. I will check around. ?electric or rechargeable impact wrench maybe?

i've got jackstands, and access to all the tools i can ever need (my dad was a mechanic for 40 years) anyways, but i do not have AIR COMPRESSOR at my place......so no impace wrench....