bheinen74

oh yeah, and if anybody has a list of tools needed for the install, I will take the list to my dads when i pick up some of his tools to use or at least have in my garage when needed. Mick- I think i am going to drop in all new MWE axles when i do this lift, so i am not so sure about the rear disc conversion, unless maybe you have the parts. I will be pm'ng the iowa guys soon......

yeah i am planning on mcbrat's helpful experience to get me going on it.. i will pm you 2 and see what dates and stuff work. I am still putting together a list of "extra's" i need, as I already have the lift sitting in my spare room.

yep. see my thread in the "older generation" section on pre lift advice for my Brat. Gotta get EVERYTHING lined up that i need, and work out when you guys are able to stop over to get it started......saturday is my preference.....

Going to be installing the 4" lift kit this spring on my Brat.....anybody have recommendations for me..... like what stuff do i need for the exhaust (longer hangers?), just general advice......any help thanks. I have front brake extensions, and the steering extension, what about the rear brakes lines? gonna get this all thought out and anything i need. longer radiator hoses? any part numbers or what has worked for you already lifted guys.

or...you can have my old coolant, which has the prestone 6hour flushing stuff already in it. It was new coolant last month that got the flush added to it. It still looks good, made my heater work well, and now i need to drain this stuff and get normal coolant back in. ...i can bring it to DM on a saturday you can have it. brent

do you need my STi midpipe? its off a 05, sitting in my ceiling joists of the garage.

ej22t bottom end engine, DOHC heads, run about 21 psi boost with a biga** turbo and fmic, with a STi gearbox and rear diff..... oh yeah, forgot Big flow injectors, and standalone or ...

aren't fwd gas tanks different than AWD ones. I know on legacys this holds true.

did you put any gas in it?

you can also straigthen out the "dent" on the axle nut; use a punch, or screw driver, needle nose pliers, etc... and try to straighten the dent. But yeah, you need a high quality breaker bar, with a cheater pipe. If you have el cheapo tools, you will probably end up breaking your tools before you break the nut loose, left sides are usually tighter than nuts on the passenger side.

you don't actually remove the steering wheel, it stays there. you take off the rear plastic access covers, and use the special torx tamper proof to remove the 4 screws that hold the air bag/cover on. then unhook connectors for horn and the airbag, etc.

need to replace the airbag and the airbag control module, located center console under the radio section. sensors are re-useable. ***note, on the airbag control module, make for certain you get it from a car that still has intact airbag.***you don't want to put one in there that has deployed the aairbag before make sure the battery is disonnected while doing so. for the airbag, is a special torx security tamper proof bit.

yep, where the hoses attach to the rack. I had to replace my hoses, on the 93 and 94 legs, i just used lower mileage hoses off junkyard cars that didnt look to have the leaks of oil at that fitting. like 10 dollars for the hose from JY

hey OneEye, how much is that lift in inches? gonna try to get an idea on what my Brat should look with the 4" i got for it.

i am trying to experiment with my Brat "rust proofing" you might be able to search or look at my pics, but I basically have the rear shock mounts closed off....and the entire underside is POR-15'd Will know soon if that is holding up, when i get to put the lift on it.

buy em from Cali and ship here, or bring from Colorado...

i am gonna schedule a "lift it" party event for my Brat.

looks like a very nice install to still keep the original bumper and conceal it well.

spent some time today on the Brat topper. It was in need of some repairs: The old Handle was gone, and the latch didn't have the slide lock bars (guess they fell off for the previous owner), never had a key for a non existent handle, and the hinge for the rear glass was loose at the top, and the strut cartridges kept falling off. I got a new T Handle lock (its for a garage door) from the hardware store with key. I also got the slide bars, guides for them, and handle turning mechanism at the junkyard a while back. The slide bars were too long so had to cut them to fit and lock. The brackets to hold the slide bar came off the junkyard piece, and i had to use spacers to get it adjusted. I used some washers to fix the hinge where it pulled loose from the screw holes. Used some pieces of short hose to help secure the strut cartridges onto the ball. Also re-bent the brackets. Now, I can lock the topper. Too bad it is coming off in such a short while for spring/summer. I will probably end up loosing the keys to the lock, kinda like i have lost the keys for my bike lock.... :-\

Rust doesn't start on the inside of the car....it starts from the outside, where water gets from driving. Salt spray on the floor pans from the bottom, not from under the carpet. Rust has to have bare metal, and moisture. not something that usually starts from under the carpet. If you have water getting into the car, then fix those leaks and never worry again. You can do this for sound deadening, BUT I would recommend DYNAMAT for that over any bedliner stuff. Its what they do with competition sound cars, and it will lower the roadnoise dbl Did you cover the floorpans from the bottom side in undercoat? If not, you need to start under the car first. That will lower roadnoise.

UV resistant clear coat to be exact. 90-94 ere leg?

if you are aware, there are about 3 things to learn here in this thread: 1. there is primer 2. ther is primer/sealer 3. and there is paint for things to work out desirable, you must use 2 and 3 pretty much in the same week. 1 is just plain bad and will result in rust, lifting, bubbling, etc. too many "shoddy" or "do it yourselfer autobody" will do number 1. Sorry...you will learn just ask ANY prof body repair guy, i mean ANY one that is a pro.

that car is not a Idaho Car it's whole life i will be money on that. also, its POR-15 (paint over rust treatment, or paint on rust treatment) but for sure not a Idaho car, it was driven ioutside of idaho in salt land to get that rust

so when i lift my brat this is what i should get: ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-27X9-50R15-SSR-Super-Swamper-Radial-TSL-6PLY_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ66473QQihZ016QQitemZ260012349313QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

i have both on my legacys, 5spd and automatic. and in the snow, i think the auto does better, with the 90/10 split and 50/50 split on high power neeeds. The 90/10 on ice and snow, is more "wheels that slip transfer power to those that grip" like on the manual, its always 50/50 so its not as good on ice and snow, its like a 4wd truck when one slips they all slip... gas mileage is better in the 5spd cause i can control the shift points, even though the final ratio is same. 5spd much more sporty.....in the snow i drive my auto, in summer the manual.