bheinen74

yep, did put antisieze on the bolts, and also cleaned the threads of the bolts, and the nuts with tap and die set.

this is how I plan to prevent rust of the Brat rear shock mounts, with pics here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=14357 First off, I removed all dust, dirt, rocks from the rear part of the shock mount hollows on my CALI Brat. Next, I applied POR-15 rust paint over everything. Then I cut cardboard patterns for the foam packing stuff, to stuff in the hollows. Trimmed to fit so they are wedged in the hollows. Stuffed in, and seam sealed all around. Next, cut trimmed and applied rubber membrane stuff over that, using seam sealer to attach, and seal off any gaps. Also seam sealed over the factory seams in that area. Then applied another coat of POR-15 over the membrane, and the seam sealer, then undercoated once dry This should prevent any salt spray, etc crap to go behind the hollows which is what causes the rust.

good pics and show and tell here. I gotta question, and here goes: for the rustout of Brats on the floorboards behind the seats......does it start from underneath the car (saltspray), or from water leaking through the fun tops and then sitting on the tops of the floor pans?????? My Brat has zero rust in this area, and i want to find out how it starts to prevent it...thanks I should post pics of how I blocked off the rear shock support mounts to prevent rust in there.

will the gen1 center push bar work on a gen2 Brat?

thanks McBrat. anybody have one of these or could get one for me?

wouldn't need the plow or a snow blower if my parents would just get an outback. They are the ones i need to scoop my own drive for, so they can come visit and not get stuck in my drive.

Looking for info if anyone here has mounted a snow blade on a Brat. (ATV type, garden tractor typt, etc....) i have a rather medium length straight drive, some concrete near the garage, and a one lane of small gravel to the road out front. I would like to rig up a "quick release" type blade for the front that I can pin in place quickly while in the garage, drive the brat out and scoop snow, back into the garage, and release the blade and slide it to the side until it snows next time. to do this, i think it would take a custom bracket attached to the frame, with a quick release mount for the blade frame to attach to Am i crazy, and or should i just get a snow blower?

jason is very good at parts knowledge. I order from him alot, have for the 4-5 years i have had my subies. he can find even the little parts no one else would even know how to find, he can find them in the books or whatever they use....and then get the parts to my door via quick shipping...yay

NO. absolutely not I have used the FACTORY Brat floor mounts. I have not had to drill any new holes into the pristine floorboard at all and both seats are mounted good as new. I left the Brat Seatbelts mounted to the floor as well, factory. AND I used the Outbacks slider rails all 4, by adapting them some. -bent slightly more the front inner mounts of the Outback seat, they line up. -made offset spacer brackets for the front outer mounts of the outback seat -crafted adapter brackets to use the rear outer mounts to fit the Outback posts. -cut off the back inner factory Outback mount posts, made new L shaped brackets for them, welded to the outback sliders, that fit the brat floor mounts. The heated seat switch has been mounted in the rear consoler rear of the e-brake. see pics for switch I tapped into the fuse box of the brat under fuse "rear defrost" which was not used, and replaced the 15 amp with a 20 amp fuse. Dont adjust power seat with both heaters on, it blew the 15 amp For the brackets i made, had to factor in lots: tilt of the seat both front and side to side how far the seat back can be adjusted etc also had to trim the door sill/suffplates to fit my rear mounts i made. I would not recommend this in a non fun-top car, as they do sit a little higher. they work for me I am 6ft tall, and they worked for my brother who is a little taller. If you are over 6'3" then i would say no workie. by the way, got those leather seats at wrench n go for 31 each seat. cheap mod, cheaper than having a re-upholster job on my original brat seats. time took: about 2.5 full days, wiring took about a day alone.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=17765&cat=500&ppuser=14357 sporting the UltimateSubaru.org stickers on the tailgate thanks to McBrat

well i placed my order today for the closout BA water pump for my Brat. Yes, the brat i just got started to leak at the pump, right after i changed the coolant. It was leaking a little before i changed it, but the new fresh coolant has dislodged whatever crap was in the pump. It looks old anyway. will update on what the closout pump is about.

94 Legacy Turbo Wagon 178,000 miles 92 Legacy Turbo Sedan 147,000 miles 85 Brat GL 118,800 miles 91 Civic Si 66,000

outback struts and springs. must use your existing rear mounts on the newer springs struts the fronts are the same and do not matter

Hi board. I am Brent and I am the guy who purchased that tan colored 85 Brat GL from Mike/Ivanna it was on here but I got it on Ebay. I have almost finished up the install of some 04 Legacy Outback limited leather tan seats, that are heated, with power driver control, and side airbags- side note airbags will be inactive.... I have used the FACTORY Brat floor mounts. I have not had to drill any new holes into the pristine floorboard at all and both seats are mounted good as new. I left the Brat Seatbelts mounted to the floor as well, factory. AND I used the Outbacks slider rails all 4, by adapting them some. -bent slightly more the front inner mounts of the Outback seat, they line up. -made offset spacer brackets for the front outer mounts of the outback seat -crafted adapter brackets to use the rear outer mounts to fit the Outback posts. -cut off the back inner factory Outback mount posts, made new L shaped brackets for them, welded to the outback sliders, that fit the brat floor mounts. Set aside the factory Brat seats which are still factory, well used...... Will be posting pics real soon. Have worked about 2 days on it straight and still have a little to do with the driver side sill plate (ran out of time) and the hookup of the heat switches (got late). I also am going to retrofit the Outbacks center armrest/cupholder to the Brat as well, and find the best spot to mount the 2 rocker switches for those heated seats. Also, in the week and half I have had the brat: rebuilt the Hitachi carb fixed a corroded cooling fan connector fixed a battery connector new used wiper blades interior clean 3 center caps from junkyard (still need one more) heater knob and clock adjust knob from junkyard etc.. Soon: Herculiner application, I already bought the 1 gallon kit. wait for my POR-15 to arrive so I can get the underside protected. whew also, discovered the Switch for the 4WD lever with 2 wires is broke, and the switch is bad, tested it with voltmeter/ohmeter. What is this switch, looks like when its in 2wd, it pushed on the switch, but when it goes into 4wd it releases. Anybody know anything or have a good switch? I am in Iowa, there are NO junkyard gen2 era cars anywhere. also what should i call it Bratback, Outbrat, BratLimited, or just Frankenbrat since i have 2 turbo legs to use in the future.. I actually want to keep this stock, but the seats were really worn bad and heated seats will be so Toasty nice.

what are the details on the tires: size? brand? did they rub without a lift?

i always come across cars there that i want to have a "key" and "battery: to see if they still run....which they look as they would, just throw tires/wheels on and drive home for 100 bucks.....i wish.....

agreed. I am in iowa too, and have a 3 car garage, and access to lots of tools. my shop is open......... anyways, yeah Ramsey sucks. there was a 99 outback limited witha bad headgasket, the guy took it to ramsey, and ramsey said cheaper to sell it than fix it. the guy listed the outback on craigs for 1000 bucks. that was a few months ago. I see the same car advertised, fixed up now, for 5500 and its a sweet nice car. Ramsey charged me about 8.75 per oil filter, and 1.10 for the crush washer for my leg turbos. the fuel filter waw 35 and it was the wrong one. they are bad. I order mine from a dealer on west coast, pay shipping and its still cheaper than ramsey.

"mouse magic" repels mice, made by BONIDE, its a little pouch that has crap in it to drive mice away. Not sure if it works, but i threw a pouch in both my stored cars, gloveboxes. I got mine at a farm home store the ingredients are perppermint oil and spearmint oil. also, you can try those glue traps, put them under the seats of the car. interesting, i bought a car once with the sole reason was it was infested with a mouse. was a 85 BMW 325, with only 72k miles. the lady who owned it got in it and there was the mouse. she donated the car to auction, and i bought it before it got to auction by offering cash. Cleaned the car up, got rid of the nest in the glovebox and the one in the trunk. set some traps. sold the car in 1 week for 1,000 dollar profit.

that does sounds pretty exciting. My Brat should be here for me in a week or so maybe more, but I looked at the pics, and no way i am taking it to get dirty yet this year. I will see, maybe my touring wagon (its my beater now) will be up for it though. If not this event, then sometime in the near..