bheinen74

you bought an 800 dollar car. That is what I would expect. Just sell it for 500 and be done with it. Then, save up a little for something decent. Something decent is about 1500 upwards.

problem is you are getting junk reman'd aftermarket axles thru that shop. You want a solution, get some axles from Subaru or MWE. You can go with used axles, as long as they are oem subaru (Subaru has green cups on each end) 65 bucks each for good used oem ones. they are all over the ebay and car-parts. Go back to Monroe once those junk ones are removed, and toss them thru the window. You could try to demand your money back but that will get you oknow whwre til you threaten to throw them thru their windows.

usually an 86 or newer is not quite as collectible as a 85 and older. reason= 85 was last year for the jumpseats. 82 is pretty collectable due to it was only year for cyclops center passing lamp. collectible is meaning they are original. a 86 or 87 with jumpseats is not original, nor is it legal to carry people in the back of one that didnt come with them. Grandfather laws apply, so 85 older you CAN carry people in the back legally. you really should post some pics. A BRAT with factory working AC is worth more than a BRAT that never had AC. etc, get my drift. Ones with non cracked dash are hard to come by and worth more than the ones that have crackd dashes.

most, if not all bodyshops, outsource their blasting. Reason= you sure as heck don't want fine dusty grit, sand getting into your paintbooth when you are painting something you want look nice. And sandblasting is very nasty stuff, not just like sanding a car for paint, in sandblasting, the stuff gets everywhere....and i mean everywhere. not good for a paint environment depends on how bad they are. I had some that were terrible and no way a wire wheel would clean them up they looked like they sat in the bottom of the ocean for years... So i had them blasted but painted myself. You are not in the rust belt for salt, so i would think a wire wheel and some elbow grease, followed by some rustoleum will suit you just fine.

that is now mine. I could use some parts from this wrecked one to make mine nicer. My seats are trashed, and could use some other parts, if you part yours out. Your seats have got to be better.

Seriously you cannot even try to get a value without detailed pictures. -A model is not going to win a contest without a photo, right? Even if she says she is cute, and pretty, there is no proof without pics. just cause the odo shows that, doesn't mean it is legit. Lots of illegal activity in car sales. I got a cluster showing 70k on it, and I could swap into my 212k hatch and nobody would know, but that is illegal and I would not even consider doing that on any car. Pics speak many things, there are also experts in this kind of thing to actually appraise the originality.

Not really supposed to do that, each has their own type of detergents, and they don't usually take to mixing well. They can fight each other. The oil part would be okay, it's the additives and what they are made up of that don't mix.

stupid Chiltons and Haynes, they both say to torque the pulley bolt to 72-76ft pound. Subaru manual says torque it to 125-132 ft pound. Make sure you use the right manual on this for torque. That is why it came loose before, cause some idiot didn't research and of course, he went by haynes or something which killed this car..

and lube the slide ears for the brake bracket holders, after you wire wheel the rust off the bracket. It shouldn't take a pry bar to remove your brake pads, but in this case, it looks as if that will be needed......they are all sorts of messed up.

Good thread and information, pics. Snake skins, eewww..

Agree with what you say, they leak oil. So, either you deal with the oil burning off smell, and keep it topped off on oil (they weep not like a constant dripping) or change them out. Maybe not use synthetic, since it is a thinner oil, maybe use regular oils instead of synthetic might decrease the leaks. My former 06 turned out to need headgaskets too before 100k, due to oil leaking.

found another one nice for around here http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/ctd/2760077210.html

just use a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a cheater pipe. They will come loose with those tools, and your muscle.

Wow that is the cousin to my hatchie. Hope you can get things sorted out and back is not a longterm problem. If you decided to part it, I may be interested in some stuff.

Wow, nice job to get those miles up there. The car you chose, actually is the car, in my opinion, the best car on the market now, for the money and what you get. I factor in gas mileage and size immensely, and it is just right in size, features, cargo area, and should be a good one. I think if i was in the market for a new hatchback that is what i would replace my CRX or Civic with.

^ ah gonna Sachs i say. That is the brand, 12.65 each. BTW, on my 94 LGTwagon, the rear struts on it now are both "Rights" I was able to make a right one work even on the left with some bracket flipping. So, I suppose it will be on the old brackets welding to the new struts...

Better Milk that cow is what i would be saying.

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=43480&p=326543&hilit=fender+gunk#p326543 the 96-99 outback does the same with gunk, so EVERYBODY on here, please clean this area unless you like rust.

That car is pretty much rust free for NW Missouri. Really doubt there are much better out there. the ones that are listed for 1000-1200 are the ones with holes in the fenders, doors, and quarter panels. I have watched craigs for 4 years within 7 states of Iowa, so Missouri, NE, IL, KS, SD, MN, WI, etc. and they are just not rust free. I can show you tons of much worse than this pics, but only a few that are better, and the ones better, are priced higher than 1800. The junk ones are 600.

Sounds like headgasket is shot, no use in replacing the water pump, or thermostat, or radiator. It needs new headgaskets. and a water pump while doing that. If you cooked it hot, then yeah new engine, and then you are taking more money than the car value is.Let me guess, about 137k miles?

All 1991 Turbo Legacy got the VLSD standard, automatics, 5speeds, every single one it was Standard equipment, ONLY for year 1991. It was not even optional on the 92-94, could not even be special ordered on 92+ since we have bumper the dead, thread of past, might as well add real facts.

"WTH, do you think happened? I had the coolant flushed about 2200 miles ago at a dealer just a FYI. Well, beings you just had service done, I do believe they left air in the system. Now you go the air out on the drive, and added your 1.5 cup coolant. BAD dealer job. Burping 101: need to have temp select to hot so the heater core fills. need to have front car raised higher than the back end, air gets to the highest point, which you want to be the radiator fill cap neck.... majority of air is caused by air in the heater core due to not have heat select to hot.

Just ordered 2 new hatch strut cartridges for the rear lid...... hope they are the right ones and work, already have 2 times now where had to prop open the back glass and don't plan to have to prop it ever again once these arrive.

thenpriced about right for ~1700 or less.