bheinen74

yeap it is 110% better than new on all mechanicals, but my dad cheaped on hood and bumper repair so that is not but 90% to new, rest of the car is better than new. On my 94LGT, i drrove 160miles now on the gas gauge fix, i am just under the half mark....so maybe i didnt instal needle high enough. I would thinkg after 160 miles, i would be on half, not just under...

I am a big fat meany. oh yeah. I think CA is a place to not even look at modding a car. just due to the emissions/inspections. Go ahead, do it, then you have to move, or sell the car.

Um you do know that Intercoolers are for cars with a Turbo right? Do you have a turbo? I might suggest go join the http://www.nasioc.com and ask the question there too, get faster response.

you can buy my parents black forester 5spd next year after they gets a new one.

The windshield does NOT need be out to pull a dash out on EA81, nor to put one in. Are you sure your leak isn't the control valve, instead of the entire core. the control valve is separate, and I have seen leaks there when the core is fine You do not want to have to ship a dash. They are large, and heavy I had a estimate from USPS to ship mine like 125 miles and the cost was over 200 just to ship. I sold the new dash for 85 and the person met me halfway. I have changed the dash and the windshield remained in the car. Might be a little easier with glass out, but that is entirely wrong to say it has to be out.

If you paid some dealer to replace the horn, and it still not working, the obvious solution is to go back to the place and let them do it right. Maybe they just charged you to replace something, but maybe they never did. Not unheard of.

Getting good parts might be difficult after the result of the Tsunami. Manufacturing was interrupted and may never be the same for many years to come in Japan. That is where a lot of parts come from regardless if the car is made here or not. Due to the Tsunami shutdown of places making parts, now they may be rushing them out at a pace that will cause bad batches. They may even be going thru a different supplier, and that could result in bad parts too.

^ Not true. They were a rare option, in the chrome. Heck even McBrat had a set on his blue brat. So please, stop saying they didn't exist when they did. that is fact. and a 14"jackman source: http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/wheels/wheels.html

removed the stock wheels. Recently I got a set of 4 Winterforce snows on craigs for 100 bucks. Yesterday I had my friend mount them on my spare 94SS wheels from Mick's car. Now, I hope it snows soon.

removed the LGT stock wheels. Installed my spare 94SS wheels, which have freshly mounted Winterforce snow tires. I scored the set of 4 snows on craigs for 100 bucks, and my friend mounted them yesterday changed oil in my 94SS. It hadn't been changed in almost a year...no worries, only 2800 since changed last. Car has been in storage most that year.

there should be a way to run different tires on the back, with front diff of say 3.9 and rear diff of say 3.54 with some math to fine what size tire will turn the same Revolution, so to those who say this cannot be done, they are not right. the tire size and ratio for rear diff of back can be adjusted to whatever the front is.. This is obviously not done yet. running x diameteter yires on back wit diiff ratio can b done. most are too lazy for the math.........

the best one

yep so true. Around here, people watch me drive by in any one of my Soobies. I give then encouragement...that they can get to work if they had a scoobb.

My post on reman'd got deleted, and it showed the real issue. what gives mods? everyone else is here and there posts remain????? not happy, gave good advice too.

nice videos to watch, they are good long videos showing what a Subaru is capable of traversing. thanks for the share.

cool link thank you. Looks better and better..

usuallynobody has much good luck with reman. 1. The boots on them are much thinner rubber and crack so so so easy in a short time, and when they crack they throw grease out and die soon. 2. The tolerances of the joints are not high, they knock a lot as well. 3. They are known to be bad right out of the box. Who cares about the lifteime warranty on a reman when they are junk. I think you post sums it up, they are not worth the hastle. How is that lifetime warranty treating you, are you tired of it yet.... Immediatley toss the reman in the garbage, and go get a nice OEM one, or a used oem one. The lift kit is not the issue if you installed all lift blocks; the lift kit preserves axle geometry 100%.

or you have too much weight in the back, like carrying tools, etc, or bodies. or in my case a 120 sheepdog and a 55pund terrier.

Yeah sounds like the installed lift kit is incomplete. You can correct your problems by making sure the crossmember blocks are the same spacing as the strut blocks. Or, you can remove the lift kit Or, you are putting in junk axles.

^ mkay on page 5-8 step 15 "Install the pitching stopper as follows: a)Insert pitching stopper rod into the bracket on the engine side, and tighten it at the car body side using a nut. Tigthen the rear nut on the pitching stopper of the engine side so that the specifid clearance exists be- tween the rubber cushion and the washer. Specified clearance MT 0.8 - 1.2 mm (0.03 - 0.05 in) AT 1.8 - 2.2mm (0.07 - 0.09 in) c) attach a wrench to the rear nut on the pitching stopper of the engine side to prevent it from turning, and tighten the front nut securely. Torque 1.0 - 1.8 kg-m (7-13 ft-lb NOTE Always make a precise adjustment of the pitching stopper to prevent the engine from vibrating during operation. Then on page 5-16 step 22) Adjust the pitching stopper as follows: a) Loosen nut until the pitching stopper on the bracket (on the engine side) is free to move. Tighten the rear nut until the rub- ber cushion-to-washer clearance is within the specified value MT 0.8 - 1.2 mm (0.03 - 0.05 in) AT 1.8 - 2.2 mm (0.07 - 0.09 inc) etc... Now, that somes it up mkay

If you adjust it too much one way, the throttle cable can pull more on the carb.... it can affect adjustment of the hlll holder/clutch cable, etc. It can significantly change the exhaust y-pipe angle where it is under the floor board, how close the y pipe comes to the floor, etc... so....it is there to be adjusted properly, and if it is wrong, you will cause excess where on the U joint to the driveshaft..... cheeers.

I do not have my SVX any more, but I thought the bottom on it was smooth, so not sure, looks different off my memory. Surely, someone with a SVX will see this, post, not knowing they even have the storage tray, and they will go look and take a pic to let us know. You could easily make your own storage tray, with some angle steel, some metal screws, and a storage drawer organizer / rubbermaid thing.

You should probably adjust the pitchrod stopper nuts so that the center driveshaft is plumb. You want it to go straight from the rear of the trns to the front of the rear diff. No angles. A bubble level might help you do this, when the car is parked on level ground.

^ most people didn't realize that seat box came on the SVX too.

I purchased a 95 L wagon a few years ago for 200 with a bad knock, proceeded to drive it home the 8 miles to my house from where I purchased it, the engine let go 4 miles from my house, hole in the top of the block. I pulled the junk motor out, and sold the car with a ej22 that looked good, but not installed. I sold it for 700..........so i netted about 400 profit.