bheinen74

I have seen the lower control arms on ebay new OEM for 65 bucks. The west coast has plenty of rust free ones, but they tend to "taco" bend and it is a crap shoot to buy used without a picture. A picture will show it bent or not when you are used to dealing with bent ones. Rust free used stuff is better than new price

Wow a NSU, like show more pics, these were a rotary car from Germany if i am right. I know someone who sold one to Jay Leno. It was like brand new infact. Every part on the car was shipped over from Germany, or was made new custom. NSU is awesome, so post some pics.

great information in this thread indeed. thank you. I may try a go at one from the junkyard, just the pulley / bearing parts.

Hats off, well done on the center cyclops light. You and myself, are the rare ones I know of who actually have the oem relay for it, and such. Nice. I actually bought a $700 parts BRAT strictly to get the entire setup from switch to relay, to light, just so I could have one complete. Then i stripped the BRAT and sold it as a running thing.

Firstly please state your year and model of car you are dealing with. oops. I see 2001 . Secondly, a compression test on certain motors will never show a failed headgasket, since they blow exhaust portion of the gasket, not compression portion. More info needed. When was the last service for water pump, coolant, etc.

Its not salt anymore, it's MAG chloride, 50times worse. The stuff is killing bridges fast, power poles, anything next to the roads.....I wish they would just use rock salt/sand mix, but no, they have to use newest chemicals, which also, BTW, make the air quality suffer too. Time to take back what this country once was. sorry for my rant

are there any specialty tools needed. I too have had several of these with bad clutch bearings, but have just replaced the entire compressor on them. Would love some more pictures and details documenting this fix. In fact, i just had to cut the old belt off my 94LGT due to the bearing in the compressor head is really rattly metal to metal now.

I have read the recall notice. Basically, the dealer will inspect the front control arms, and do one of 2 things under recall warranty: 1. Replace badly rusted parts 2. Coat the rust-prone parts in paint to prevent further rusting. If someone is mechanically inclined and can get some por-15, rust bullet, rustoleum, ec, it can be done a home for the price of spray can, if you do not have rusted parts already. If you have really rusted parts, go get some new ones for free. It is becoming quite obvious the grade of metals has been cheapened at some point in the manufacturing process for several eras.

This is a proven way to kill duty C solenoid. This is a good idea and Subaru should start making them FWD, with the push button to go to 4WD, kinda like they used to make them. If engineered this way people could go to AWD only when they really need it. It would save many MPG in the long haul. I hope SOA monitors these boards every now and then.

Hope it is nothing serious like that, but would be smart for Subaru to act cautiously...on whatever it is. if anyone finds more info, please add to the thread. Trying to get facts or what is known.

more discussion on http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-present/40254-stop-ship-order.html someone brought something up that made sense to me...... somebody wassaying that maybe the parts on the car (even cars made in US have Japanese parts) that came from Japan are contaminated with Radioactive nuclear fallout, and the dealerships will have to proper wash the contaminants and do some geiger testing to make sure they are safe....... Japan has really been hush hush on this issue. All Subarus have parts shipped form Japan, so it could be legit.

Second and third opinions are the way to go most times, along with the great advice you can find on the USMB. Hope you got it fixed.

okay so that says not all, which is better than the ALl which i was dropped. thanks

Anybody hear that Subaru has put a stop ship on ALL new cars nov 23, 2011? Wondering what they messed up this time.

hmm then try a flush then if you have been doing them before. got some crud or a sticky solenoid/s in there may come out of it.

sounds like it might have a dual range trans from a 82-87 brat in it, which has a lever not a shifter...

Subarus do not like full flushes. It causes too many problems than it solves, mainly disturbing crud in the torque converter, which then gets dislodged into the main guts of your trans. those debris particles are better off staying in the TC. Now, you should just do a drain and refill, 2 more times, driving up to 100 miles between the services.

I do know the cops around here are giving faulty equip tickets to the ones that are lowered and rub on bumps. Not safe if the springs are cut either.not for street driving. off road use only. meaning track car.

oh that is pertinent info.

Sounds like the 4wheel drive engagement is working like it is supposed to. You do know you are not supposed to engage or disengage while the vehicle is not in motion? Nothing to fix, just read the manual. Please make sure you know the procedure or we will have this all over again shortly. Doubtful anything is wrong at all, with the transmission.

Broken axle is the most likely and we have seen them fail first when offroading. Wish i was closer.

The only way it makes sense to buy it back is if you have alot (and i mane alot) of recent stuff done, like headgaskets recent, new tires, new brakes, new battery, that you know what you have..... But i would not attempt to fix it, you would be better off using the parts on something else, or selling the parts to someone in need. Not likely you can fix the roof up to mount a windshield properly. If you did fix the roof, it would cost over 2g just to get it halfway right, and it may never be right 100%. That is some serious structure damage, and they are giving you what I feel is fair price for the car. The buy back is unreasonably priced. At auction, the car will sell for the buyback though, but again you would most likely be better off taking the insurance money, saving half, and spending the other half for a good one.

Probably a real hoot to get going and get stopped, well probably decent if the ground is level.

Anytime I look at a automatic AWD Subaru, I look for the FWD fuse holder, and if there is a fuse in there, I either run, or try to knock the seller around enough on price he/she pays me to take the car once I point it out and tell what it is for. Check for dark ATF, and burnt smell, if either run. If nice and pink, then it was either just changed when they knew you were coming to look at the car, or that means good maintenance. It always is a good thing to actually look to make sure the driveshaft is connected to the rear diff as well, and to make sure the rear diff is still mounted. A few years back, people were selling "AWD" Soobs like hotcakes to people who then found out the car had neither a rear diff or a driveshaft to it....

hmmm never new that he was referring to that pic, which i didn't know were stock.