bheinen74

hmmm always have good luck with this stuff http://www.farmshopstore.com/misticmetal.html mistic metal mover. i like the smell of it too. Hope that is not what you had bad luck with.

Oh. Mistakes happen. Best to just scrap them, and begin the search for some 15x6 non metric (there are stampings on the outer ring to identify) so you don't get same thing again. Even the Peugeot crowd on their forum do not want these.

not worth buying it back for that price. take the money from insurance and say goodbye to it. It is replaceable. Glad you got away unhurt or hope that.

no you should not do it. Your thought about key on and FWD fuse is a no go. You could tow a manual trans car, because it does not require fluid being pumped around the gear set. But no way at all any Subaru Auto trans car can be towed without the car running, while the transmission pump is off while the front driveshafts are connected to the trans. The friction clutches in the trans will be destroyed even in 7 miles. if the engine ran, then yes you could leave the car running and in Neutral it would be okay to go slow.

somebody on here i think has a sasquatch, and he lives off the grid. Maybe that person will post on your thread too.

they do make thread cutting oil, it is lots better than wd-40.... if you are gonna do hubs, it would be well worth the investment to have some around.

Is the pitch rod stopper still on the car like it is supposed to be? up on the firewall center..

think they made a diesel edit yes http://darkforestcreature.com/Courier/Information.html and drum-roll "Between 1979 and 1982 a number of electric Ford Couriers were produced -- Jet Industries purchased "gliders" without engines, and put in a series DC motor and lead acid batteries, to produce the Jet Industries ElectraVan 750. These were sold mainly for service trucks to electric utilities and the like. They had a top speed around 70mph, and would go 50 to 60 miles on a full charge. A number of these are still around, usually with upgraded motor control systems and higher voltage battery packs."

OEM exhaust lasts and fits, comes with flanges etc, much better steel. aftermarket exhaust has a designed 2 year lifespan and is junk, doesn't fit, and is not direct bolt on, usually no flanges etc for the most part.

Anybody else notice the video of the wagon, pointing out the steering wheel has an airbag? LOL that is not the Airbag steering wheel. That is the pre airbag wheel. lol mistake.

sounds like you got something other than OEM plug wires on that car. If I was you, I would go ahead and buy some OEM plug wires and get them on the car soon, or you will be dealing with misfire every so often when the plug wire comes off the coil pack. OEM wires don't do that, You can get a good deal on oem plug wires at several online subaru dealers, including fredbeansparts.com

Tuneup. change air filter every 8k use full synthetic oil belly pan custom made to reduce air turbulance tire pressure increase as stated. take off any roof racks crossbars add full disks to cover the wheels (yes look at any experimental cars and you will find smooth wheel surface is key) etc. use good grade of gas use synthetic gear oils and if you have ATF synthetic. you could modify the front grille for better aerodynamics too. lowering the vehicle will help too. Make sure you have the O2's changed to new oem. new knock sensor bearings going bad can cause drag so new bearings make sure brakes are serviced and sliders lubed, you don't want any brake drag at all. disable daytime running lights keep fan speed off or low at all times keep AC off do not have uneccessary current draw on the alternator (get rid of amps, radio, subs speakers, also saving weight etc) if you have a hitch remove to save weight. get rid of spare tire to save weight. You could change to a SVX final drive, 3.54 ratio, for sure that will improve mileage. that is all i can think of.

washington, Iowa.. glad to see more and more of these solid ones hanging around here, nobody wanted them elsewhere so good for us.

Cool, this is the one from Williamsburg. glad to have someone else in Iowa appreciate Subaru heritage. -brent

sounds close, they start pulling like a freight train once about 45mph hits.

typically, a "rebuilt" alternator has only: 1. new bearings 2. New Brushes 3. new windings. That is it. I have seen alot of rebuilt alternators fail shortly after purchase from autostore, sometimes fail instantly. I believe it is because they do not replace the voltage regulators. The VR are delicate, and a newly winded alternator is going to put out some high current when it is new, and the already old delicate VR dies instantly. Then you have a whole mess of problems, of overcharging, cooking the battery, etc. I do know I would rather get a oem junkyard alternator and take the chance on it, then going to the parts store and getting one with a nice new "rebuilt" sticker on it. Someone who is close to a autostore please ask them what the rebuilt alternator means. Ask them if the VR is new too. You know what the answer will be? Well, it is warrantied, so if you have a problem we will exchange it. So then ask them how many alternators they have to take back on warranty. You will be shocked of the answer. Warranty on a alternator is a big hassle to me. I don't live close to the autostores, etc. I can go buy 2,3, or 4 at the junkyards and take my chance on them working and it costs less. But if i see the "rebuilt" sticker on them I have purchased a few and learned not to do that anymore, they are the junkones. The oem are good, but anything i have got with the rebuilt sticker is bad.

These do require regular headgasket replacements or so I have read. If they have already been done great. I would plan on doing the following unless already been done before: a complete engine reseal, including headgaskets, new thermostat, ALL new hoses that hold coolant, and a new radiator. Make sure you know the cooling fans are working and come on when they are suppose to. If you take care of these things pre-emptive to when needed, you will have a much longer engine life, and have a good runner for years to come. Many many horror stories out there due to neglected maintenance, and not spending a little now, having to spend a lot later, or having to junk it due to overheat.

It has been a few year since I did that. I do remember drilling for sure 2 spot welds, and maybe more, but I also used a cutoff wheel on a dremel also, to remove part of the old bracket too. I think i drilled the center two, left the outer 2 welds and then used cutoff wheel to get the metal out. I had the 82 Grill, which i used for a pattern overlay on the 85 honecomb grille, marking the outline witha sharpie, and then i used hacksaw to cut the 85 grille. The 82 Grill cannot be used on the 85 (82 is for 2 headlihgt and 85 is for quad headlight) You can search my older posts and maybe come across some pics.

On mine, I drilled out the upper spot welds on the 85 radiator support. Then removed the entire center support to make room for the cyclops center support Then i bolted in the 82 assembly.

nice. my Brat did the same blew out the seams.

head trauma inc. name says it all maybe. hope all is good though.

DO NOT USE FEL PRO intake gaskets. HG by them for ea are ok bad, the IG are paper. get oem they are metal.

It's probbaly not too hard to crack the codes for all those "remote start" gadgets, and go around starting peoples cars for fun; just hope the car is not parked in a attached garage when they do it.

easier to go to dealer for test drive comparisons, but at least no damage is done, maybe just showing to people a club is the best protection, along with pulling the fuse for ignition, or pulling coil pack wire. yeah remember the blue svx chase they could hardly get that tank of a car stopped.

Sounds like the issue is the normal going in and out of torque converter lockup. lockup occurs in 4th, and is like and overdrive to the trans. Going up hills will pull it out of lockup ad RPM will change slightly like 250 rpm higher when its not in lockup. many things are determining when it goes to lockup, constant RPM, TPS level, etc. and hills will definitely mess with it. If you haven't done so, have the standard maintenance of drain and fill ATF, followed by another drain and fill in another 15 miles. Make sure you have correct fluid levels on the ATF and it is tricky to measure.