bheinen74

priceless.... $78,000 that is more than my house cost

depending on the year and model of Subaru, there are many relays, switches, and control boxes under the carpeting, everything from seatbelt reminder stuff, to airbag controls, to ABS control, etc, even fuel pump stuff

I just cannot understand why the shops in this part of the US are so terrible. Just this past weekend, on the Facebook Iowa Subaru Club, someone just got their car back from Ramsey (the worst Subaru dealer in the nation). This is the post "Kyle Den Hartog just got my car back from Ramsey from getting the radiator and timing belt changed. Long story short I now have 4 cylinders misfiring."

Forester struts and springs would be the better choice.

Actually, I am not surprised at the prices they quoted you based on location. Now, are they correct in that it needs all that service, No, but again, not surprised of the list they gave you based on shops like that around here are the same. Now, do you need to have that shop work on the car, no. Would I sell it or fix it. fix it at a reasonable shop but not that xmas list of stuff. Too bad dealers are like that where you live, they are the same here. "1. Headgasket leaking oil to the outside - (that is about 500 in parts including new tbelts) 2. Sterring gear leaking power steering fluid - (that is a 50 cent o ring needing replaced) 3. Spark plug holes are full of oil from the valve cover gaskets - wires are oily (all new gaskets on the valve covers and bolt seals and new plug wires, cost is 85) 4. Oil leaks at oil cooler adapter to block (whatever, probably using some inferior oil filter and if changed to good one no leaks) 5. Brakes have 40% left, warped rotors (new brake paas and rotor each whel is 70) "

the left nut (lol) is usually the tightest. but then even if the nut busts (lol) you may have a stuck axle if you are in the midwest..

And if you give up, i have one with the nut already off, but the axle is seized into the hub and the end is now smooshed after using a press, all after the normale soak with penatrent, braas hammer, bigger braas hammer, nothing, take to a press, and the press did not get it either....\\ free ornament, axle was good so was hub except outer boot was tore.

this is cool too

I like this one better

Are the fan/s coming on?

Axle on right side front has boot that got cooked. Subaru really should put a shield over the inner boot to protect it from heat being so close to the y pipe. My dad has developed a shield made out of old license plate to fasten to protect the right axle, and it works well.

my vote already is the thermostat is MIA, and it is clogged with nesting between the blower motor and the heater core. especially evaporator if the vehicle has or had AC.

Not worth rebuilding the subaru auto, becuase most shops are not capable of rebuilding the Subaru 4eat correctly. I see lots of failed attempts at rebuilds threads.. I would go to car-parts.com and find a lower mileage used trans. They come with 30 day warranty, then have your shop install the used one. make sure you get the right ratio, and it is verified to be correct. used trans whould run less than 400 to buy one. It would be wise to get a new torque converter. They tend to go bad over time with the filings getting into them and then the lock up messes up.

Changed coolant in my 94SS, new air filter 94 Legacy GT wagon, new air filter, applied rain-x front window.

Dealer around here would recommend new rear diff first. then they would recommend new center driveshaft. Then they would recommend something else. All before even doing a fluid change. There are some bad dealers out there. I would get a second opinion. No valve body is bad at 85k. Did they change the filter for the ATF? Your dealers sounds off the wall. Like said, some are bad, and need to be taken down.

yep, Low mileage CA BRAT. I had them out to put my lift kit on, and applied generous amounts of antiseize. I had them out again to remove lift kit and install the new KYG Gas adjusts, again applied antiseize.

A valve body replacement is likely to be nearly as costly as just putting in a brand new trans, not used, not rebuilt, but brand new. Not quite sure why they think it is the valve body out of all the years of subarus, I have never really heard of them going bad. On the SVX, there is an upgraded valve body that firms the shifts up, but I am totally unaware that this is such a common issue on a 2006. Actually, it is not a common issue, and actually I think they are trying to screw you into a costly mistake to swap it. Are you sure your ATF filter was changed? Are you sure you have the proper level of ATF in there? Sounds like something fishy to me.

Mine come right out on my 85 BRAT. I just untorque them a turn and spin them out with my fingers.

For starts, if you don't get much air at high speed, sounds like the first thing to do is: pull the blower motor, and clean out the junk between it and the condensor/heater core. I bet it is packed of crud and nesting. Then, would be to flush the heater core, and while you are flusing that out, you can pull the thermostat (if there is even one in there), go ahead and buy a OEM new one from the Subaru dealer, do not use autozone, advance, napa etc, use only OEM. Then yo should be in better shape with heat.

what tires above are they I have forgotten?^ seems like they are 13" so yeah.

You can by a automotive stethoscope cheap. They are useful for many things, including this. then all you need is to place the steth on the spring at each corner, while turning the wheel while it is off the ground. guess what, the wheel that spins with grinding sounds through the stethoscope is the bad bearing, 99.99999 percent of the time. it never fails this way.

bad alternator.

classic sounds of a stuck piston.

please find out if he said ea82t or ea81t, and then find out if he said year 1987? if he said ea81t and 1983 or if he said ea81t and 1984 legit. otherwise he was full of pooopy, or actually just scenile.