bheinen74

Are the fan/s coming on?

Axle on right side front has boot that got cooked. Subaru really should put a shield over the inner boot to protect it from heat being so close to the y pipe. My dad has developed a shield made out of old license plate to fasten to protect the right axle, and it works well.

my vote already is the thermostat is MIA, and it is clogged with nesting between the blower motor and the heater core. especially evaporator if the vehicle has or had AC.

Not worth rebuilding the subaru auto, becuase most shops are not capable of rebuilding the Subaru 4eat correctly. I see lots of failed attempts at rebuilds threads.. I would go to car-parts.com and find a lower mileage used trans. They come with 30 day warranty, then have your shop install the used one. make sure you get the right ratio, and it is verified to be correct. used trans whould run less than 400 to buy one. It would be wise to get a new torque converter. They tend to go bad over time with the filings getting into them and then the lock up messes up.

Changed coolant in my 94SS, new air filter 94 Legacy GT wagon, new air filter, applied rain-x front window.

Dealer around here would recommend new rear diff first. then they would recommend new center driveshaft. Then they would recommend something else. All before even doing a fluid change. There are some bad dealers out there. I would get a second opinion. No valve body is bad at 85k. Did they change the filter for the ATF? Your dealers sounds off the wall. Like said, some are bad, and need to be taken down.

yep, Low mileage CA BRAT. I had them out to put my lift kit on, and applied generous amounts of antiseize. I had them out again to remove lift kit and install the new KYG Gas adjusts, again applied antiseize.

A valve body replacement is likely to be nearly as costly as just putting in a brand new trans, not used, not rebuilt, but brand new. Not quite sure why they think it is the valve body out of all the years of subarus, I have never really heard of them going bad. On the SVX, there is an upgraded valve body that firms the shifts up, but I am totally unaware that this is such a common issue on a 2006. Actually, it is not a common issue, and actually I think they are trying to screw you into a costly mistake to swap it. Are you sure your ATF filter was changed? Are you sure you have the proper level of ATF in there? Sounds like something fishy to me.

Mine come right out on my 85 BRAT. I just untorque them a turn and spin them out with my fingers.

For starts, if you don't get much air at high speed, sounds like the first thing to do is: pull the blower motor, and clean out the junk between it and the condensor/heater core. I bet it is packed of crud and nesting. Then, would be to flush the heater core, and while you are flusing that out, you can pull the thermostat (if there is even one in there), go ahead and buy a OEM new one from the Subaru dealer, do not use autozone, advance, napa etc, use only OEM. Then yo should be in better shape with heat.

what tires above are they I have forgotten?^ seems like they are 13" so yeah.

You can by a automotive stethoscope cheap. They are useful for many things, including this. then all you need is to place the steth on the spring at each corner, while turning the wheel while it is off the ground. guess what, the wheel that spins with grinding sounds through the stethoscope is the bad bearing, 99.99999 percent of the time. it never fails this way.

bad alternator.

classic sounds of a stuck piston.

please find out if he said ea82t or ea81t, and then find out if he said year 1987? if he said ea81t and 1983 or if he said ea81t and 1984 legit. otherwise he was full of pooopy, or actually just scenile.

after 4 coats of primer, 10-15 minutes between coats...then i sprayed first topcoat.. first coat drying, only one side sprayed at the time . I will finish this stuff up tomorrow, wetsand, then clear, then use rubbing compound to finish up.

just get a buddy down under. he will ship you 14" sunraysia.

paint fumes, made me forget to turn radio on... wow it says open windows, don't breathe vapors. Will be working outside in the 45 F day hope it hits 50. This needs warm to be good result, but winter has set.

start with a 4 year search for a roll bar. rollbar: 230 bucks, and 600 miles roundtrip to Chi and back weld the splits shut cost: 20 bucks those are before weld sandblast cost: 100 bucks primer, sealer, paint, clear, and a 12pack to help me through this crisis. first coat of primer

To test low fuel light indicator to see if it works: 1. fill small gas can with gas and carry around with you in the back 2. drive til the gas guage is the lowest you have ever seen it. 3. keep eye on dash for a bright yellow/orangish light. 4. when light comes on, go get gas at the gas station 5. if light comes on in middle of nowhere, you can fill with the gas can you have with you 6. if the car dies out and you never saw the light, the unit has a burned out bulb or something not working, fill with the gas can, go to fuel station, fill tank, then find out how to fix it.

Great upgrades. Hey mick, i think i have a little bit of the spray can of paint left from when I did the fender probably not much in there, but you could spray into a little cup for some touchup paint for nicks and scratches here and there. I will keep it around if you need some, it matches close enough still i see. Nice SS. Lets go to the next meet.

I would buy a few of them from you, i have a bent one too i do believe..

yeah its that time of year, still humid air, not the typical bone dry chill of iowa yet. I am looking at my sunroom (dogs front porch) now and all the glass is covered in moisture on the inside this AM, not the usual sight. It is kinda like a greenhouse, until the daytime temps get lower....

good breaker bar on the front pulley going either direction should allow you to get to the 4 bolts to the TC, either top, or bottom or combination...You will be able to turn it a little with some force. whatever is broke and hangin up in the case, can be broken loose with some force of human kind on a breaker bar and cheater pipe.