bheinen74

yes interference. Don;t let your buddy near your car. His book is wrong, and if he touches your car, he will ruin it.

or try to put a little more tension o n the belt, probably wearing down by now and needs some adjustment to proper tension. If a bearing is going, you would hear it. But you are not? Sounds like belt slip with your description. Belts as they age, do somewhat stretch, and periodically need more tension on them

just fogs fogs and low beams fogs, low, high beams fogs low, high, and cyclops center light.

NOS SOA foglights, with switch, and the mounting template. Does that count as rare?

unfortunately did not come with wiring instructions or wiring diagram. On the back of the relay are 4 prongs, labeled : L B S G guessing isn't working, i thought maybe L-to lights B - battery S- switch G grounds. Anyone have similar setup that can tell me more info would be appreciated. did a temp hookup a few different ways, switch lights up when on, relay clicks, no lights. i did hook 12v directly to lights and they come on very dim with no relay but both worked. Maybe there is a "old school" Subaru service person on here who remembers working at a dealer and installing these and could direct me....here's to hoping for help

did not come with covers, but did come with the switch, harness, and relay. nice score for 25 to my mailbox. now, for the mounting location on my BRAT, anybody have ideas for location to mount them?

Lots of contradicting info so far in here. I see: -some say it cooks the battery -some say it works they have had it now for while no issue/ -some say it takes out fuseable links after a few months -some people say the EA has 2 wires, and the ej has 3 wires, but look at the evidence above in the square with 2. -etc. etc Now, any internally regulated alternator, with a failed regulator, will cook a battery, and maybe we are seeing some of that, it is a common fail. Now, maybe we are seeing some that just have not run with it long enough to even know if they are cooking the battery. I can see that too. what I don't like, is how much differing outcomes people have. And i do want to know the right answer, which so far cannot be gotten with the info here. Plus there are 90-94 EJ round connector alts, and then the newer square plugs to throw into the mix as well. Someone clear up what is being discussed. brent

sounds like it is in D check mode, ie, the connectors that are for checking CEL are connected. These are under the sterring column. Green and black single wire connectors. They are not supposed to be connected unless checking the CEL. When they are connected, they will cycle fans on and off no matter what..when switch is to on or accessory, car does not need be running. that is for 91-94 legacy, and I am pretty sure other models as well including loyale and impreza.

My front end measures from concrete to fender arch about 26"

I am sure you read up headgasket issue and verified the replacement. It's a good car except for engine headgasket issues. Welcome to the board.

How did it go at Napa or Oreilley's, for that heater valve? Just curious.

by all means take your time and don't force it, if you force it, it is about a 75 buck mistake.

Oh noes. Did you try fresh ATF in the pump? ATF could just be used up.

I always wonder if this is why my CA BRAT arrived to me with a ball bearing lodged, should say pressed to not remove, in one of my vacuum lines... it had passed smog right before it was sold to me..... ran like crap too. craptachi..

EG33, and don't forget remaining intake tubes before the start up.

yeah plenty of 36grand SVX's can be had for around the 600-950 area...... so yes, the Tribeca soon will have that as well. couldnt sell them new, cant give them away used.

you could try to get some new fresh oil worked into it around the edge. if you can wiggle it a little that is progress. do not pry it out it will crack if you do that. you can maybe pull with hand while wiggle, but do not pry it with a screwdriver or bar.

make sure you have all the bolts out. put the oil filter back on to use the filter as a handle, trying to move the pump clockwise, then counter clockwise, back and forth with the filter as a handle. Do not pry out on the pump, use twisting motion only...

My 1993 USDM Loyale has glass headlights.... now, the Legacy's here, they are plastic lenses which tend to yellow. But, not sure what the demand would be for glass lensed Loyale lights since the one's we have here are just that.

This: is NOT zero brakes. one pad is down do about 15% the others are 95% good.

Laptop. You will need storage space local to the device to store reference documents, files, part numbers, instructions, install and removal torque specs, etc..... Or you could go with net book, and get a notebook paper binder and write that stuff down in it with a pen.

I've got the whole mechanism it is already removed from the car works good. pm me if you want a price quote shipped..

Cool. Did you fix your engine/cam issue to get it running?

one pad worn on the corner. "All the other pads were beautiful with fully defined mid channels nice even wear and plenty, in my layman's opinion, of life left on them" you asked to save old parts..... All others were good. They took your money for brake job not needed. I am not surprised. Corners of the pads do not wear alone. So did the shop put a grinding wheel to the corner of the one, just to make it look like you needed brakes. A Corner just does not wear, it is physics here..

I have a Harley Screaming Eagle muffler that I am going to put on my BRAT.:-p my dad got it at swap meet in the box for 10 bucks. have to try it