bheinen74

there was once on ebay a 54 VW van ambulance. now that was cool.

but why all the cost of high priced synthetic oil, just to insure 500k. I have had no problem getting to 250k on regular Castrol........change intervals of 3k. By 250k, the car is used up, rusted, pittied windshield, worn shocks, trans acting up, too rusted to work on. Why would i want a car engine to last any longer than 300k really? I don't get why people pay a premium for the synthetic, when regular will do just as proven good to last the cars shell. Oil change with GTX regular (eithe 5w-30 or 10w30) and a wix filter price : 20.75 Oil change with Synthetic and Wix filter, upwards of 40 bucks. Engine mileage longevity for either over 300k Change interval 3k vs 6k or so..... if you don't drive lots of miles, that is not an issue. I suppose if you are driving 100k a year then synthetic is good. anyone else agree...

yeah was just on FredBeans parts looking for a "GT AWD" rear hatch badge emblem. Not there either......they have all but GT.......and I know it had the emblem cause i can see the imprint of what it was. I may go take a pick and see if pooparu can make a sticker of it.....then slap the sticker over any old badge..... Guess I will give Jason a call. Now, rockauto lists the GT.....so go figure.

guess KBB.com does not agree on Subaru GT Wagon, that model is not available in the pricing, they show L, LS, LSi, and touring, but they DO NOT have GT as a option. I emailed kbb a nastygram.

take covers off to check

I would never take a car over 3500 on oil change. Course, i take mine to over 200k. and over 300k

Simple green to start, and rags. as things get clean, then i stick with simple green and old toothbrush and rags. Alloy Metal stuff can get a small brass bristle brush. I remove the caps for stuff, dipsticks, overflow, etc from the csr and use hot soapy water and a good toothbrush. The black metals once cleaned with the simple green, go really well with Armor All. I sometimes find wd-40 works with a brush and rag as well. Will post another before, and the after will look new in comparison. This one is going to be easier than some. I can't wait to start on it.

going to remove front right fender to see how good I can make the dent disappear tomorrow. got the bulb in for the defrost/cruise backlight, all lights are as they came when new now....used bulbs do work. This car has many dents. I will have to learn the paintless dent removal method, paint is still good for the most part.... going to detail the engine soon as well, so a before and after of that. Interior is immaculate as is.

The weight they recommend is only in a Synthetic right? I would do as they say.......but my own car would be getting castrol gtx 5w-30 regular and some 2500 mile oil and filter change intervals.....

thanks was waiting for the right info.

Thread title had me hoping for pics of a stuck hatch, like in mud etc....or in a pond or massive ditch. oh well. good luk

as long as the car is good clean title (not salvage) then the DEALER should diagnose and repair it I would assume for free due to manufacturing defect. Salvage car, no way you will be charged. It is part of the restraint system and should be covered for life under laws.

om i think i saw a limo version hearse in CF for sale when i went to UNI homecoming...

replaced the torn speaker grille cover with a spare I had, looks much nicer a shot of all the backlighting fixed, still waiting on finding one more good bulb for the cruise switch before putting that back in washed it in the rain yesterday, this side has quarter rust Also just got done installed the rear "SUBARU" badge i had laying around.

Those types of big wheels are a burden to sell, check craigslist around here, nobody is buying the 100's of sets available, in fact they are only worth scrap imo.

the loyale has to be gone by Nov1. I am about to go rip parts off and stash them where i can.

There is a tab in the center of the pages for "subaru of the 80's" but for quick access, here you go for pics \ http://www.indysworld.com/80s/fun/convertibles/convertibles.html

if you have play in them when they are off, and you can wiggle the arms around, then the plastic bushings are worn out in the linkage system. Kinda a pain to replace, but it is a safety issue, you need wipers working properly. Once fixed they will work like new again.

It will be cool to watch someone working on one with about same type of needed attention to repairs....wish you some luck too.

well, that or purchase a car cover for it. City sent me notice for 2 junk cars on my property (the 93 loyale i am parting, and my 84 EJ22 BRAT) Guess I better start messing with the wiring to see if i can get it started. City says its in-operable cause it hasnt moved since I got it. And either get it operable, or real car cover, tarps are not acceptable. wish me luck. only have until Nov 2 or they remove cars.

yeah it has rust. nice that 2 people have a thread for very similar cars...I got mine on 10/11/11 after missing out on the one you bought.....both cars are needing attention but that is what to expect on that old of car.

pics not cleaned up or anything I just got done fixing the burned out dash backlights, and the "D" indicator light which is in the center dash-that one is sort of tricky to replace. Also, did the title transfer/license stuff this AM for it.

"peppy for a samurai even on 22s" wanna be a gangsta.....

yes- or all duty for a while. Once i work the bugs out on the GT, those Nokians are going right on. Will be nice to not have to fill up with premium this winter. Looks like no chance for pics today, the weather is not right today. Lightening right now, its really going to be a dark day.

That is a very worth the effort you have spent to document this. Cheaper route than sending off the heads. Just as good of a result if not better, due to less shaving this way. Always use a high quality feeler guage and a high quality straight edge ( I am talking Snap-On or MAC) to check the levelness/warpage, before, during, and after. Not all straight edges are actually straight believe it or not. But snap-ons are as close you can get to perfect.