bheinen74

You need a few tools a new auto mechanic would not usually have in the tool box : roll pin punch for axle pin 1/2 breaker bar socket for axle nut 34 or 36mm jackstand torque wrench to torque it back to spec. if you have all these tools, the job is well documented. IF you don't have all these tools and can't get them or borrow them, leave the job to someone who does have.

Hmm. Excellent question, one that is the first time I have seen anything like.

yea re-looked same as first photo, just the flash and sunfade. good deal. nice and stripped.

Looks like it is so badly color washed out by now......first pics looked more blue, the last pic it is getting grey, probably not using the right cleaners on it and it is fading it out. Anymore, and you will have grey fibers. I would rather have a little stain and dark rich color.

I have good hood and front grill/heagdight buckets, trim, etc. brent

i even have the turbo crossmember.... you can control the turbo via manual boost control valve. above it is stated whatver.

true with everything you have said, including the Honda bits.

yep nice. You can't do that with clearcoat paint on todays cars, once it flakes, it is toast no buffing will fix it. love the old single stage paints.

If it was me, i would have the seller cut the wagon shell in half, and ship the entire half carcass on a pallet... Or I would..... never mind.

today finished up the right with seals and new axle. then I did the left front: new rotor, new pads, new outer tie rod. Also reinstalled the flywheel and new clutch disk (old clutch only had 15k on it and was perfect so going to squeeze another 15k additional by putting new in) i already had it anyway and my 15k disc will be backup for this or the 85 hatchback someday when needed. Also removed the weber and adapter plate, and have the stockish carb installed now. Was finishing up with the declutter of vac liines, going to pretty much use what I had on the weber and block off what i can, but it was getting cold when the sun was down. Yesterday installed my LED floodlight in the garage, lots better light now out there. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DDQK0O/ref=oh_o01_s00_i00_details have it wired to a cord i cut off a non working fax machine i dug out of someones junk pile on the street last fall. Light works so good in my garage, i have ordered another for the other side of my garage rafters... looked at my parts box, forgot to install the rack boot on left side, so i will be removing tie rod in the AM and doing that over. Also, rocketseals.com order arrived today for the input shaft seal for trans, and tomorrow the 4wd selector seal will arrive at the parts store, so i will get it together tomorrow and sealed up, and install day probably friday for trans and saturday for engine. Hope to see if it starts with the stockish carb soon too. It is a carb i bought from the sucker king, off a non ecu non feedback 83.

those cleaners will probably cause cancer somehow. What is wrong with companies that won't ship chemicals/gas etc....it is not as bad as the cleaning chemicals or eating a happy meal.

You always learn something new everyday, or so they say. check with dannybreadman he has nos doors, fenders, and rear quarter panels for your wagon, on ebay still. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-SUBARU-REAR-DRIVER-SIDE-WAGON-QUARTER-PANEL-/220878696469?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336d657015&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_1084 http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-SUBARU-PASSENGER-SIDE-REAR-WAGON-DOOR-/220722266318?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33641280ce#ht_500wt_1084

Mouse climbed into the tailpipe. Now you are burning mouse fur out of it?

discontinued 10 years ago. Don't think they stored any of them, you will be out of luck. Too old.

just make sure the place on car-parts knows if it is from a 4wd or a fwd, the hump for the drievshaft....

again, those are loyale tanks. anything listed as 85 up is loyale. EA82, not the right stuff. They just don;t make, never did, never will make ea81 stuff like this. All of the good used ones WERE on the west coast, but they have since crushed them all since no value to have a old car on the road anymore. When someone sees us in the midwest pour money into these old ones, I am sure they laugh at us. When all is done, you will have a nice car, but you could buy a 1500 dollar one out west, pay the grand to ship it, and not have to source all these rust repair parts (cost). You are going to spend total of 5g just to get this in halfway driveable reliable and god looking shape. Again, you will have a nice car, but for far less you could have bought one and be driving it.

i have rear clutch type lsd in it now, it is very driveable that way. It crossed my mind now the case is still open but this is going to be a daily driver onroad BRAT from this point out.

you just gotta trust the fact. If you value having all your heater controls, and dash vents working and not broken. If you care less if that stuff ever works again or you like to see broken vents and temp controls that work, then have at it, but you are asking for trouble. I took one out of a junkyard car that was not cracked, and I HAD to cut the temperature control cables and a couple of the wires and stuff. There was no way to save it without doing so. You will thank me for this advice, either way.

IF you can possible leave the dash in.....it is a BITxH times 1million to take out. Trust me, if you can leave it in, do it.

Subaru dealer gave me the wrong wheel seals for the front. They have a big lip on them, the ones i took out are thinner and no lip. Now I am out 18.44 for the 2. Had my dad go to Napa in his town and they ordered some. I already got the new bearings in the right front, new outer tie rod installed, and have the new rotor on and new brakes, ready to install once I get the correct RIGHT wheel seals , new axle from empi ready to go too.

well, i will come back on here, cause when gas gets 5.00 a gallon, or possible up to 10 a gallon (yes that could happen in hurricane season/newest war on islam) I will take a 3mpg better with the hitachi over a weber. I was getting 25-26mpg with weber on my 85 Brat, I think i can pull 30mpg with a good hitachi non feedback carb. My first hitachi was a California feedback and it sucked. 4 years ago, I put a carb rebuild kit on it immediatley after purchase of said brat, and it still sucked, big time. So about 2.5 years ago i put on a weber. Night and day change, lots of low range power, but mpg only about 24-25. I had in the mean time purchased a free abandoned 83 gl rescue wagon, and that carb was hot stuff. ran as good as the weber and got 28-29mpg. Then recently i got a 85gl hatchback 4x4 ea81, and the hitachi carb on it is running and pulling hard. so. I am going back to try a hitachi. I will sell my weber if this is a good dream. nothing bad on the weber, just i want a stock Brat, that would pass as new and not have emissions issue in ANY state. I also want the rare stockish BRAT seems nobody has one these days.

nice pics was 65ish here all afternoon, still warm. I have been doing my BRAT stuff, wanted to get to the point i could seal up the trans and install tomorrow.-not going to happen the input seal(s) i ordered from rock auto are not right ones. So i am waiting from rocketseals.com my correct sized seal. I had ordered 2 different part numbers/brands from rock auto hoping they would send at least 1 that was correct. I was wrong in thinking that. both the timken and the beck arnley they have listed are wrong. Anyhow. Yours looks really really solid still up under the back. On the broken nipple on the gas tank, do you think i would suffice to just thread in your own and epoxy seal it in.......? I think that could be done for under 5 bucks, and now you are talking shipping a tank from somewhere....that to me does not sound like a cost effective way. fix what you have. for much less. heck shipping cost alone is going to be like 50-100 on a tank. JUST FIX what you have, the car is how may years old, you cant get awesome parts for it anyway so use what you have....my 2.5 cents

Ben, do you have that day free? any interest in riding along to get some video etc.

where to start I ordered 2 input shaft seals from Rock Auto, one was timken brand the other beck arnley. NEITHER seal is correct. grrr. and that is why ordered 2 different art numbers thinking they would maybe send one that is right. Wrong. Got a rush order from rocketseals.com for it coming, hopefully by end of the week. They have everything in stock. AS you can see, i removed my heated outback leather power seats and installed my mint ebay seats today. When i purchased this BRAT the original seats were ratty on the vinyl. Took my 4 years? to find a set of good stockers. Also took the time to install a NOS armrest high rise. Also reinstalled my stock steering wheel, now the 4 spoke is for sale. Outback seats for sale too. The old input shaft seal i pulled out with my index finger, it is hard as glass, no softness left no wonder it was leaky, it was spinning on the shaft...

^ one reason is it is a huge honking heavy boat bloated with gadgets. No longer stands for what Subaru started out. They will get bigger and bigger and bigger until gas stays at $10/gallon, then they will trend smaller.