bheinen74

too rare and too nice/rustfree to risk rally damage. drag car or show car. I say keep all the bondo on it, just fix/finish the shaping job on it. I once stripped a car of bondo, and in the end, just had to reapply the stuff. In the end, if i would have just added more and finished the body work it would have turned out better than going thru work that someone has already started. You will spend 8 times the labor and time to strip it off, than if you just spend some time to fix/sand, shape what is there already. If there are cracks, then grind the cracks down, but if it is still good leave it alone. Where did you find this car? MO or IA

special lines needed for ATF. same as gas hose. otherwise is swells up and turns to mush.

I've been looking for the bracket, but think i might have left it attached to the block halves i sold last spring. But if that bracket from a ej22 sohc is not going to work on a ej25 dohc, then I will just have to scrap this whole idea....

yeah, and I will agree since you would be looking at Ramsey for dealer neutering.....so what you have is better than going to the DM Subaru dealer for how they neuter everything they touch,

the new style one causes the belt to slap around on the timing belt cover at times.... so need to go to proven old which in my opinion the old style is the better style, and yes cheaper and easier to source for me in the yards.

I would rather throw on old but resurfaced OEM rotors than new junk ones made in China from a aftermarktet brand. I know from experience which ones will last longer, and it is not aftermartket.

Have this style spare tensioner and want to use this style and would like to replace a bad one this style, on a ej25 dohc This is going in the trash. What bracket needs swapped? Any picture of what the bracket is so i can dig in my parts bin thanks

Pretty sure this sort of topic of the thread is not something people out west have to deal with. It is such a common issue here and out to the East Coast. If you live in midewest/rustbelt/NE, please inspect everything from hose clamps up front, to the line connectors as mentioned. It only takes about 5 years here for the hose clamps to rust in 2 pieces that hold the lower radiator hose on. It is a no brainer for me to replace all the lower hose clamps on every winter driven car with the better stainless clamps. Salt is to blame, well driving in the winter over salt.

has anybody installed the newer style "wide path" window squirters on a gen1 legacy, or similar? I loved the way my Baja squirters covered the front window, much better than the way my 94 legacy is. Direct swap? Want to get prepared for winter in my winter rig 94ss soon.

My 93 Loyale clock works. Car doesn't so well, but the clock sure does.

or it could be the beverage of coca cola that got spilled in there. sounds like a good time to remove the shifter console trims, and see if you can clean the electrical thing ,maybe with some windex.

Don't use the guage position to determine gallons used. You determine gallons the car drank when you pump gas the next time. If you had a full tank to begin trip, and drove, then when you fill it back to full the next gas pump, however many gallons you pump in is what your car drank up, DO not rely on a gas guage. Now with this being said, 34mpg is not out of the realm, depending on if you had a windy tailwind, headwind, crosswind, no wind, flat, slow fast, etc.

Last month I got some new KYB Gas Adjust for the back on my 85 BRAT. I went with them because that was what was on my 83GL wagon and i loved how it rode and handled up but was not all bouncy etc, and not too squishy. I do like the Gas Adjust, but only have Gr-2's on a legacy to compare to, the Gas Adjust is my preference at least on a Brat and GL.

How about just retap it a thread size or two sizes larger than stock, source a new bolt to fit new thread, and enlarge the pulley hole to accept lager bolt. I know the crank is hardened/forged, but a good tap set should do the trick with some cutting oil and time. No need to remove engine, or condensor etc.

that is the heater control valve. there is no fixing it, but it can be replaced. you do not need to remove the heater core to replace it. but you wil have a hard time finding a new one. they pop up every once and a while, usually a 50-60 $ part.

I suggest leave the stock head unit, and replace the speakers with the most high efficient ones possible (efficiency is on the specs of most high end speakers, rated at 1watt per meter etc). The stock speakers are probably somewhere in the 80 DB rating, and you can get some pretty good ones that will rate in the mid to high 90db, even 100+ I am not talking anything on watts here, just the efficiency. The stock headunit and stock amp is far superior longevity life than any pioneer, xxx brand etc. You just need speakers that can turn what watts it does have into good sound. done. the sound will be adequately better. And you will have money for tires. nobody is going to break in to steal your stuff with a stock radio.

I was thinking the helicoil too, or else even cheaper, somewhat fill in the stripped threads with weld, then re-tap the threads.

why, it is cheaper here : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.c0.m619&item=320664360310&viewitem=&category=50447

replace with a standard hose clamp, they are stainless and you only need to spend a few bucks, only once and it will last forever.

My former 92 SVX got a good consistent 27.5mpg all around. I am pretty sure mine was doing better than some of the reported mileage, as mine was in flawless mechanical repair. They are bult to last, a few on the SVX world network http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/ have more than 300k miles on them. Actually, they have a database logging the higher mileage ones......Subiemech85 has one and it ia\s about to hit the 293k mark on miles, on original engine and trans, but his is a 96. The 92's for sure had 115% failure rate of trans, and wheel bearings. Mine had had the bearings replaced 3 times until they realized the grease the bearings were shipped with were a shipping grease, not a hi temp application grease. Wheel bearing and rotors were known to get issues if overtorque the wheels, and or axles on replacement, Mine also had the trans replaced with a new Subaru trans at miles 57k. If you find a good one with a full service maintenance log, then you know the owner did all they could to repair stuff. If you find them witouth maintenance log, there is a good chance things were neglected, or not, but i would say be careful on buying one.

NOt sure on the plastic intake runners either. Does everyone know what plastic does over time, be it plastic headlight lenses, plastic parts on a turbo engine, etc? It gets like glass in about 10 years time. Guess they build it to throe away anymore after it his 10 years.

Just a quick note to let you guys near Menards know they have Kidde brand Auto/Marine fire extinguishers on sale for 7.99 each and they have a 3.00 each rebate, so final price is only 4.99 after rebate. These are very useful for carrying around in your rig, or to have handy in the shop. I do recommend on older vehicles/cars with so so wiring to carry one, and this is a cheap way that may save it someday. Rebate limit is 2 per household. I got my 2 today, and so should you.

yes it fits.

2.5 = for the ej22t 91-94 turbo ej shold be about 2 1/8 ish for the NA