bheinen74

or this

costs have gone up on shipping over the last year or 2. CA to IA went from 910 in about 2006 CA to IA went to 1086 in Jan 2011 CA to IA in Sept 2011 - now it costs 1,192 from CA. I am certain going from WA to the East coast is even more.

Bad. The stock system is actually proven over and over to pull more cool air in than putting anything else on. You may get more air flow, but it will be hot engine bay heat air. You are best to leave alone. This is argued over and over to no end. The stock system has a fender box which also helps if you are ever in a high water issue as well. Factory does know what they are doing on a Subaru intake.

I am still recovering from the first post of hysterics. Haven't laughed on here like that for a while.

Bilstein won't waste your money, but they will need lots of it. -but shocks are not supposed to rebound on their own. They need a spring, or leaf, or coil for the rebounding/push. Or in the case of a BRAT, torsion bar. the shock is just there to control the motion of the travel, and to dampen it. you have springs right?

any luck or do you have to scrap it.

use permatex ultra gray for the substitute of oil pan gasket. it is what the new ej's use.

I had 4" lift on my 85 BRAT, drove on it almost daily drive like interstates etc, for over 11k miles for 2 years. Handled, cornered well, etc. I did let it do some serious serious off the road stuff about 20 times, about 200 miles on dirt roads. But it did well either. I took it on 900 mile roundtrips out of state, once or twice. I took it on 600 mile roundtrips to KC and back 3 times.

scrap yards are paying 300-500 here now and they come pick the car up, they need a title, then they crush it and sell it for the metals. guess China needs all the metals they can get and so does Japan.

coolant got changed prior. I have owned the car a little over 10 years now, so it was for sure due for coolant change. Fuel system shows no issues, like said it got 600 mile roundtrip getting a hair over 40mpg. Since the car has been "in garage stored. but non heated", didnt think too much about it much. Wouldn't due that on a outside stored car. At one point in the storage for a few years i kept it up on jackstands so i could turn the wheels every so often to check on the brakes to make sure they weren't sticking. No problems there either. Low mileage for sure helps in that the condition is amazing so its not much similar to storing a lot of cars. Hondas are sealed up well if they have low miles.

Bet the one you have that is torn is on the passenger side... The y pipe cat is over there and tends to cook the boots over the years on that side. The oem axles you have are far superior quality than any new replacements you will buy at a discount parts store. Keep your 3, maybe reboot the torn, or replace that single one.....I would suggest just to reboot it and use new grease, and let it be done, save up the money saved for other stuff like ball joints, water pump, hoses, etc...

need to align it with something other than those tires, no way you can check toe with them. New tires followed instantly same hour by an alignment is what you need.

I find it hard to think shocks would do that. Have the toe checked when you reinstall stuff. As well as general alignment check

I have always kinda liked them, but had been told general maintenance parts are pricey, and used parts for anything are non existent, or if you find them too pricey to justify. My former boss in Denver had a nice Green one with gold trim and all the bells and whistles. Road very nice.

A bad belt in the tire can cause tires to wear like that as well.

Great to suggest a sticky, But even with this picture, people still cheap out. It does not much good to sticky it, it would be like a sticky on using only OEM plug wires, and only NGK plugs, an not using a K&N filter, and to only use OEM dohc ej25 headgaskets, use only OEM intake gaskets, the list is endless. People simply ignore the facts and go cheap. We see threads every day on this type of aftermakrket route and what the failures are and we tell them to go back to oem, and then they reply that they put in Champion plugs cause that is all the parts place had, and it is still missing. So..... sorry i had to bring this up it is important, but appears too many ignore the knowledge of the board.

Nice BRAT, have not seen too many in that color. Looks really good.

If it starts with ease and runs smooth right away, leave the carb as is. A good running stock carb is nice. If you have a good one, leave that part alone. Focus on sealing up the body holes, and whatever list you have accumulated.

how did it stand up to the heavy task of snow moving?

i kinda wish i would have bought that one. oh well. if you need spare parts let us know.

Too many people overlook easy stuff while in there, like slide off the pivot fork, clean, inspect for cracks and wear, and use proper lubricant/grease on it, and the pivot ball, reinstall. That stuff does wear if it is not getting cleaned up and greased regularly......

glad this thread popped up. I forgot I had removed my lift kit, so i just spent a few minutes removing the 6mm wrench i used as the cable bracket, and found the original bracket to put back on. Will test out later on my journey. yes, we usually use the hitachi craptachi throttle linkage and swap it to the weber.

yeah what is the fix? nobody has brought that up that I know of.

Good luck. looking at those detailed pics of the nasty rats nest of vac lines,now i am so glad i went with a Weber on my Brat. I still kept the rats nest of stuff its on a shelf. the stuff you are noticing different could it be one car had AC and the other no AC? maybe one is CA spec and the other not as well.

Nice BRAT in the Midwest. I think we are slowly acquiring some of the better BRATS in the Midwest, one by one.