bheinen74

" it is running hot, but working on fixing that ....." You have one of the most problematic engines Subaru has made. Trying to get more power out of it with a bigger Turbo has been done but most of them blow up. If you want reliable, you are not going to be happy with a bigger turbo, you will be breaking all kinds of stuff, even when done by following the book on this. You simply don/'t have a reliable engine to consider doing mods on. You are running hot because that is a sign of eminent failure. Not sure how you are planning on fixing it, but best thing would be to scrap the ea82t engine and swap a ej22 in there. Or if you choose, then bigger turbo = bigger kaboom when it does let go.

I have a CA 85 Brat with weber and computer is unhooked. I used a different hot when on wire for choke wire. -Now i know why the original choke wire wouldnt work on weber.

Pick n pull junkyard.......... I bought an entire ej22T longblock and after i got home, I found it had a COMPLETELY brand new T belt, new tensioners, new pulleys etc.. entire engine cost me 150. :banana: after i sold the short block, for 500, i have a new t belt kit ;eftover and so it was paid for so no cost at all at this point. I made money on getting my tbelt kit.

springs attribute 95% to the ride height Shocks are for rebound 95% the other 5% on each is not much to think on. You can take a shock cartridge and press it in and it will stay and hold, where you push a spring in and it comes right back out. You probably have the saggy butt syndrome..weak springs. weak springs will take a toll on shocks over time as well.

I had a 93 or 94 (don't remember which at the time) ej22t had a plastic one as well..... I also had records from my 94 TW that it had a good size oil leak at 3,000 miles from when new........ and they replaced intake gaskets at 6,500 under warranty as well on it..... So even when new, they were not sealed real well.

delifted brat completion, shifter slop fixed, yet again...this time slotted the shifter that slides over trans shaft. prior fix was to thread a bolt thru where the roll pins were that was 4 years agi....... this time, slotted one side only, squeezed, welded after slot squeeze. threaded bolt back thru.. i bet I have the tightest shifter in all the world now for any brat, would bet money on this claim.

usually alternator out gives xmas tree lights flashing on dash.. battery is first expectation. that was a battery i remembered i got handed down from my dad...it is i think the one that came in his forester, and it he thought turned the car over slow...

145-150 ft pound. fronts Pretty sure the back drum has it printed on it for 155ft pound. I usually torque to 145 ft lbs then look at the cotter pin alignment, if it is close, then go to 150, and turn it a little more to the next notch

I havent tried it but someone should and report back http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/

wow wow wow " ?: A 3 week test drive to see if I thought I could fix it while he is out of the country and then I can buy it from him for $500 if I want. I want"" rusted out see thru the panels and nothing left of rockeers cars here gor for 750 in that era....

Battery mick battery. the one i tossed in there was maybe junk.... the it came with still got here....i put in one that it would get started with... dangwish i had that car back.

water pump is seeping out the bottom.

Cruise and horn and airbag tie into clockspring, not so much turn signals.

iirc there is a checkball in the fuel suppl line that if the car is rolled over, the check ball blocks fuel supply.. if you get nothing with key, then check all cable, grounds, fuses.

that will buff right out. fill it with bondo, sand, paint good as new... JUST kidding. Replace the pan. For future use, get a stock skidplate.

the oil pump has a pretty thin aluminum section in it that tends to crack upon removal.......that could be your leak....

double check you got the correct flexplate. Did you buy it from Subaru dealer, if so what is the part number. someone can check the number to your application, lets start from there. If you got if from other than dealer the likelihood of it being wrong is going to be higher chance.

what are the effects of gas mileage drain when AWD vs say, being in front wheel drive mode.....

oil pan = permatex ultra Grey. It is what the ej came from the factory with. Forget the old cork crap.... Subaru learned from the mistakes, so use permatex ultra gray, and then oil leaks will for sure be a thing of the past.

sounds like the beginning of a flexplate crack.

that old of Subaru, in WI is going to be like swiss cheese underneath it. scrap it. you already mention the brake lines are rusted out, the exhaust is rusted out, and the gas tank is too. Then a Subaru dealer advises it is not safe. If you get another one, have someone inspect the car for you it will save going thru this again.

We have listed there were risk when getting a turbo. No maintenance records, no deal.

That is the whole problem. Glad you got something worthwhile on them now.

take all tires back and get a different brand tire altogether. They will allow this, they know sometimes tires are just bad they are in this business, they will do what they can to make the customer happy. Do not get same brand tires as those they are probably junk. those tires are probably not michelin, pirelli, dunlop, yokohama or good year. I bet you got some off brand

yeah i missed it cause i wanted to post up current pics of how it sits this day.