bheinen74

I would like to be added to the poll, I read the rules and posted details and my 3 pics. Please can someone add me in the poll.

Thanks, I am only 6ft tall, they seem to fit just a TAD too tall even for me, but i live with them. Much better comfy than the stock torn dried out ones. But the color on them is exact for BRAT, like it was made for it. You can see my door sill plates, the door panels, all a exact match, got lucky i suppose.

The only way someone will pay good (maybe 500 bucks) money for this is if they have a LOW mileage car in need of a motor. But, think about it, low mileage car that is nice, is not going to need a new engine. The one in it will be fine. Nobody would pay that to drop this in a 300k beater mile car. The block will have pistons and crank, but nothing else, no intake, no oil pump no timing components, etc. It is a block, with pistons and crank and rear main seal and front seal. nothing more. But if someone has a low mileage example, they might want it to know they have a good long term motor. So those folks may pay good money. But like i said, throwing a new motor into an old tired dog, is not price conscious. A EA81 would honestly be worth quite a bit more in my view. I assume you stumbled across this in your search for a ea81T block for the one you have that is toasted. And the dealers said, nope to the ea81T, nope to a ea81, but sure I got this "EA82" if you want it. I would think there are quite a few new ea82 laying around, probably even at the dealers around here who have been selling Subaru since the loyal came out. I have a EA82 loyale I just bought for 300 and it needs a new motor. But i am not willing to spend 300 on a new motor to put in it, the car has 156k on it, and by the time I would fix everything on the car, i would have over 1500 into it, and it is only worth 800. So i am parting it out.

the only way to make your brat better than the ea81 is a ej22 putting a ea82 in a BRAT is like the same as neuter.....

dunno but someone has been selling a ea61 on ebay brand new asking 95 bucks for it and only 25 for shipping..... I would say probably 250-475, and someone on the airplane community may be willing to pay considerably more..... They just are not really a sought after engine. The cars they go in are pretty cheap beaters these days.

the only thing making it go bad would be moisture, i don't see how moisture can get thru the plastic bottle....

The 83 GL wagon i had, dubbed "rescue wagon" had square tubing welded to it on the rockers for sliders....Think Bratman on here did the work, and i think he had a album showing it being welded, during his mods..... not a very good pic.

04 Limited and a PERFECT color match I used all 4 stock floor mounting holes in the BRAT, with lots of fab'ing to the 04 rails to fit the BRAT floor holes.

salt kills.

very much agree.

I went to FORD dealer, walked onto showroom floor with my 5 gallon bucket of cash bills...enough cash to pay for the focus in cash. Said to the salesperson i would buy the car in cash, IF they ripped out all the active sync microsoft crap in the car. If they threw it the active sync crap in my bucket, I had all day for this. They said the car would not run after rippiing out active sync stuff. I said i will buy in cash if they could sell car without the stuff i didn t want, told them resell the sht, whatever, but i want buying the car with it installed. walked away with my bucket and those salepeople still to this day try to sell me on it. sorry. not going to jump on the bandwagon. I do not own cable TV, do not own cell phone, do not even have a regular doctor, dont have a DVD Player,,,,,,,,,ad for heck do not want a car with that crap on it. EVER>

difference may be in some of the wiring connectors. the 90-94 had the bulk of the harness go to the battery tray area on the front driver left side up by the radiator/battery tray area. The 95+ had the harness connector right above the bellhousing center back of throttle body area. I am not sure but the length of the wiring to the main connectors could easily identify what range you are to begin with.

Did you drive with them at night enough to report back how they are doing? Would like some feedback of the useage.

90-94 engineered for better long-term. On online insurance auction sites, and other online places, I see many more 350k plus mile units in that era than later..that tells me they are best for longevity. The only reason they got taken out at 350k is an accident causing too much damage to keep on road, not because of a engine, or mileage issue of things wearing out.

i've got 2 piles stacked pretty high in between my garage studs....someday i am tossing them out to get some stud space back.

personally,i wouldnt put an aftermarket pan on it it, if it is made of steel. Aftermarket metals will rust in a year and you will wish you used oem.

power stuff for the automatic shoulder belts too.

SVX "Crush Mod" is what they term it. But if you have a flare, maybe the brake band or whatever it is called is slight need of adjust.

The flies around here need a shotgun they are that big. At that many miles, your alternator is not going to last much longer for charging. A fine needle end grease gun is probably all it will take to quiet it, its just getting dry and telling you so. Get some lube in it, good to go.

How long do HID's go before burning out? Have any of you had them very long?

I could drive 750 miles straight to Colorado not using cruise and never have it downshift to a 3rd gear not even once, all keeping a perfect steady speed using my foot. Using Cruise, well it was constantly searching like 10-15 times on hills, and coming out of TC lock up etc... silly puters.

try new air filter, they need replaced every 8k around here (bugs/dust/pollen/tree spinners/corn shaft/etc)

could be good info. But whenever you reset the computer by unhooking the battery, it just throw it into learn mode = menas for 3-4 gas tanks your mileage suffers dramatically 18mpg for a while while it figures (or tries to figure) out how to maximize the maf and tps etc....based on how the throttle is opening and closing. Just wait til microsuks is in all our future cars.. I am not sure you are going to see the affects after it has learned it may go back to how it was programmed to handle cruise.... In learning mode, it is not able to pull timing quickly, and that really may be all you are seeing..when it is able to pull timing, it will downshift more abruptly...

maybe if enough people on this board contact KYB directly thru their contact info on their website, and if we ask them to make correct adjustable struts, than they would get my business i would buy a set or 2. right now, KYB does not supply correct front struts. what they have are not adjustable, therefore not a correct fitment. please write kyb everyone and tell them this, take pics and show them what we need. hatchsub, those are not gen 2 brat, not even close to working. the top nut thread is not even the right size, the spring perch is wrong, length etc...