bheinen74

yeah the adapter and ej22 is the solidest part on that BRAT. its a learning platform...but very rusty.

ej18 is great for a ea swap....i would think. great power to weight. should bring a BRAT or other EA vehicle to about 38mpg.

did you forget something? the title says pics...

dunno. parked or...... was busy hauling back a 84 BRAT with ej22 installed but not running and we were hitting side streets due the look of the brat with all the engines and trans in the back.

its in iowa, i have seen a few around this part of the state ugly as sin.

lockout switch enabled maybe/

I saw Mountain Grizzly today. Was going thru Oskaloosa and saw it sitting in a yard.

a shock absorber is just that a single round cylinder, no spring perch a strut, is one that has the spring perch mounted to the shock, welded on. a strut assembly, is the strut, the spring, and the top mount all fastened together ready to bolt into the car/

I have a 85 Brat. The door ajar bulb is most likely burned out or the switch in the jamb is corroded. I have loose connectors under both my seats. They are the side air bag connectors. I also have the other 2 connectors plugged in, those are for the heated setas which get toasty when i press the on swith. I don't think ANY BRAT's came with power steering. I yanked my computer out.....mine was a California spec brat....but i weber'ed it. Mine has AC, but i haven't rehooked it back up after the lift kit...

the front struts have built in adjuster nuts...crank them up the rear has a bolt to adjust the torsion bar force. look in the manual in the glovebox top...

and for real how many gears does it have? I want to see the sticker for gear shift patterns.

He has the stock engine, ea81, with ea71 pistons, Delta Cam, recurved Disty, weber with 155 mains, MSD 6A Ignition, Accel SuperCoil. That ea81 is hooked to a 5speed D/R which then goes to a Samuri box, then off to the diffs. Thing has like 35 gears to choose from when you include shifting the 5 speed andshifting the sammy box as well.... His fabricator, shaped the tubing, then welded it right to the unibody rails of the BRAT. It has a home built tubular frame, all welded to the unibody.. you can sort of see it here where the tubular is welded to the frame rails

doh yeah sorry plunger out making contact.. you could take a sandpaper and clean the contacts.....

that switch is supposed to mount so the backstop on the lever pushes it in, that then light is supposed to go on for 4wd. the lo is built into the trans, no external switch for lo. The black switch is only to indicate 4wd....now....since the switch is undone from the hole it mounts in, can you push the plunger in, and see if the light comes on for 4wd.?

Mine look like this... They appear as if they survived several passes of a buffer at some point by the previous owner the dark part is still gummy residue, which is now hardened due to sun action.... I doubt mine would come off with anything.....

Although you mention you cannot touch the car, for others, look in glovebox for paperwork, and here is a good one, look on the windshield for the clingy next oil change due at xxxxxx miles. you can guestimate there. I was looking at a builder car 04 Forester, and asked the miles, but it would have taken the sales guy like 15 minutes to go get the keys or look it up. I looked up to the left corner top windshield, said next oil change due at 87,xxx miles, so i could guestimate the car had a little under that.....told the sales person never mind got it off the next oil change due sticker..

velcro and a pizza box treated with aluminum foil for each fun top . never done it but might be perfect. again, they are not T tops. They are not T-tops. The official name is Halo Twin Roof / Twin Halo Fun Tops or Fun Tops....mkay. but T tops is a trademark of GM or whatever and was never used in Subarus terminology in literature. not trying to be a di#k just trying to inform. ________________

search ej to ea adapter plate.

well done, nice job of killing the clutch disc. That will buff right out.

big vacuum hose connected under the intake tubing?

wrong. any car in that limited production number, is worth at least 2g. A car to crush at the junker sells for 325. i am waiting on pics i might buy at 1800 and have it shipped

You should just replace the door rubber with good ones not torn. Ie junkyard car. prevention is key. Do you wash the car in the dead of winter? if so, you probably have water there that freezes at night. When you open the door after it is froze, it causes the rubber to stick to the door jamb, and something must give. in your case, the rubber tears. Don't wash car in dead of winter. If you doo, take the time to dry out the jambs and such before letting car freeze. Use silicone condition or wipe rubber conditioner on them.