bheinen74

thats how to id a turbo brat just kidding. Turbo BRATS were made in 83 and 84 They had special badging, on the Tailgate gold turbo emblem on the mirrors, gold turbo emblems The cluster will have a Boost guage mounted normally where the reg BRAT oil pressure guage sits. intake different no kidney bean air cleaner. the body side modlings and bumpers will have a gold strip whereas reg brat has chromish

i borrowed (pay deposit get it back when return) from autozone the 2 piece threaded clamps. Trick i found out was to clamp them on before you jack the car up. The weight of the car on the springs keeps them close. Just snug compressor bolts while car is on ground. Then jack car up, then remove strut/spring assembly. Then you don't have to tighten much to get the top mounts off. install with the clamp still on them and loosen to line the strut bolts up to you chassis.. please someone else chime in for more info. -hints. mark with paint pen the position of the spring coil, the top mount, and the top holder.... -hint. also mark a dot on the outer part of the perch so you install same way it was removed from car, there is a outer hole and inner hole on perch so mark the outer. -hint for fronts, before front removal spray paint over the knuckle camber adjustment area so it will mark the position of the camber slot, so you can install and not have to go in for alignment....you could also scratch the line with an awl

The banjo bolt filter/screen attaching the oil supply line to the turbo housing is the culprit. It could gunk/clog with non frequent oil changes, sludging up, and basically causing a turbo heart attack from lack of oil. Most of these occurred about 50-60k miles, and then Subaru under warranty would replace the turbo. BUT.....Read this+++++++++> by the time the problem in the turbo was detected, just replacing the turbo was not enough, as many of the spit up there bearings into the bottom end of the engine. So, eventually, block damage occurs. So, make sure you look at records. If the turbo was replaced, make sure the bottom end was checked for turbo bit damage.

turbos need oil changed every 3000 miles. If this has not been done ALWAYS, (ie no records showing this) then pass, that is for sure not a well taken care of car.....if it has gone past 3k mark on oil interval There are lots of cars for sale with full records, indicating a caring owner. No records, no deal

http://www.jcwhitney.com/in-dash-radio-installation-kits/p2012205.jcwx?filterid=d1933y1981j1 "This product is guaranteed to fit or work with your 1981 Subaru GL or your money back. No questions asked. Price: $21.99 Kit Shipping:See Item Details Tab" bet it wont work though

what is causing a pop pop pop pop or knock nok nok on cyl #3 when plug wire is on coil. misses but no poppopopopopo when wire detached from dizzy.. i am not famiiar with the ea82 but do know ea81 and ej22 and ej25..... backgrund new car to me bought for cheap : already reolaced dizzy, plugs timing belts good shape and timing is checking out good. doh i am going to part the red turd soon if nothing comes on this thread.

all Japanese cars have the code on the passenger door lock. so that means a RHD Subaru has it on the left door.....

please provide the dealer who told you this. We need to avoid that place, and if I was you, I would find another dealer to go to as well. Places like that dealer need shutdown before someone is killed.

best to call it toast, go the pick n pull yard and get a lower mileage unit to install. Look at odo on the car, find one with lower miles.....smell the fluid on the disptick and look at the fluid color, unless they have drained it. make sure if you need AWD you get one with AWD. some of those legacies in that era are only FWD. Read up on the torque converter seating. Make sure you get one from same 92-94 model so you get the right ratio for your rear diff.. research the install issues of torque converters.

possible wrong oil pressure switch? they did make 2 styles...one with light.....one with guage.....

Ebay sells lots and lots of stuff saying exact fit for Brat, Fits BRAT, etc, when they are not even for the ea81.....you have to know this. unless someone swapped motors, you should go to dealer and give vin. If you give vin to dealer (and no one swapped motors) you wil get the right parts.

oh boy...its in the owners manual. just off the top of head, don;t follow this but you get the picture: get in car, turn key to acc. turn key off. open door close door. turn key. press lock button press unlock press down xx times wait for beep and light on program code in the fob by clicking the button on door of done correctly, fob will work and car will honk. but usually you have to try it like 5 times before you get it right.....ridiculous, need to shoot person again. something like this...its so screwy.....whoever designs this garbage needs shot in the head. if 4 fobs have already been entered at some point, then need to reset the whole system. Instructions for reset are in manual too. like i said, person was seriously inept at this step by step guide.

sounds like the replacement trans was fine, you drove it for 30 miles. Did you read up on how to "seat the torque converter" before you installed the replacement. It does sound like you fubarred the trans pump not seating the TC right, based on what i read. I would reckon if you didnt search that proper issue, and you didnt seat it correct, you will be going thru this yet a 3rd time. be careful, take you time, get it right.

maybe you will get lucky and find that 3rd gear....is it all sloppy finding other gears too, normal bushing mia problem? it might still be there, you just gotta search for it. Yeah i know you are aware of this, i had to just throw it out. If it is a 5speed, without 3rd gear, it is now a redneck 4 speed.

The reason for having 10 posts counts for PM is so that we don't have spammers come on here, create an account, and immediately start bombarding us with cheap Nikes, and free ipads.....garbage. Just reply or ask more questions on threads that interest you.

"but my mechanic friend saw it and he said that that kit is too "cheap quality" and recomend to me to buy another kit" the mechanic is educated, i wouldnt use it either. He wants oem quality. Not many mechanics will stand by shoddy products...if it looks like junk, it is junk.

don't think gold or chrome looks good. keep it black.

Dealer. There is a reason Subaru dealer costs slightly more: It fits, it is correct, and it is of good quality. You are only going to shorten the life of your Brat if you use sub standard parts. It deserves better, and the cost is well worth it.

Noticed my BRAT muffler was getting a little more rumble today, the bottom back is blowing out on it......guess I need to search up on a replacement at some point. Also cleaned up the battery terminals, replaced the positive end connector. New Plugs NGK (old were 2 autolite and 2 champion) for the red turd, and a replacement dizzy, still not running good, pop pop pop on cyl sounds like from the dizzy area , maybe a new cap will fix it got one coming.

It is a "serious" looking Justy. bet that gets some attention.

There is a reason OEM cost more sometimes. At least it fits, installs with ease, and comes with all washers, bolts to do the job.

installed new NGK plugs, got second distributor, installed that dizzy, still same issue, pop-pop=pop when the plug wire to cylinder 3 is on the cap. so no change. just ordered a new cap.... if that doesnt do it, then only thing i can think of is plug wires. anymore thoughts. the red turd still awaits a good running day. i only sweat a little putting the plugs and dizzy in, temp is 95 heat index 110, likely to have this another 6 days of temps. oh here is the red turd

the guy called in to car talk for update. the weight of the coop was enough to damage the trailer axle into a bent hunk of rod......snowmobile trailers are not very sturdy.. he had to have a flatbed move it.

out of ALL the junkyards i go to, Evey single one with a ej25 in it has printed on the window, bad engine. Every single one with ej22 in it has printed, engine good.... that means something if you are looking for reliability. ej25 is not as reliable. proven over and over if you want to stick with ej18, get delta cams, and be done.

anything is possible if you put some time and effort to it. its easier to swap to the gen2 brats. not speaking with experience..do you have gen1 or gen2 BRAT?