bheinen74

full of nesting material is most likely. did you say you removed the blower motor and checked where it blows thru the evaporator for junk?

change to a different brand oil, Castrol, Valvoline.....etc. I have read on other forums that the subaru and mobil 1 are not the best combo. You can search over on nasioc and come up with many opinions, but i do know for fact others noted mobil 1 disappears as well. No first hand experience on that, but I run castrol and wll choose it.

did you try to tap it the other way for just a jolt. Sometimes if you give it a whack the opposite way it will cut your penantrant just a little better.

air in the coolant system? before you go any further do the proper burp / belch of the coolant air.

I do not think you would absolutely need to weld, why not epoxy, rivets, screws, etc...

i did find a place online with the correct 165/65R13 ....pm me and i will send the link if you are interested, although i am not familiar with the brands they list they have 5 different brands in that size/ ferox you did not list his correct stock size

It should at least start and groan if you were close. Did you forget to pop on the bigger vacuum line over near the airbox, it is the one hidden up underneath the intake chamber. It wont start if you left that unplugged. look over to the right shock tower, and then under the intake snorkels to find where it hooks in.

Close is not going to work. Needs to be dead on. Are you sure you used the correct marks, there are ticks, and there are arrows, Do you know which you tried to use? Damage, is possible on that motor. Not really a good move risking that motor if you are learning. I am not sure i would want to learn on a interference motor, could be very pricey. Cheaper to pay some shop to do it right. If they don't get it right, it would be there obligation to fix the damage. Good luck. If it was slightly off, probably no damage but you are taking a gamble to learn on this.

better chance of clearing roadkill too.

yeah that sounds normal, there is not enough compression on these little boxers to keep the keep the car from moving/engine turning.

nice BRAT should buff out nice.

I see a hitch on the back. if he had any tongue weight at anytime, then the rear struts are dead. So start with some new struts/springs in back.

the blackout affect is totally RETARDED dumb mf. end of thread. ban me now. You cannot see the lights on that car in rain, snow, fog. The Insurance company should drop that car or at least charge 300% more cause it is unsafe. I will not pay more cause some fool was not seen in a safe time limit when in the rain fog, sleet snow. Learn this fact it is dumb. Another added fact is that whole car is retarded. It cannot be driven in any snow the way it sits. the owner of that type car in general is the same owner writing an essay on nasioc that he spun out in 1/2 inch of snow cause he didnt have the money to buy snow tires. If you really want good lights, go buy some street legal Hellas or Osram bulbs...eot

put i new one on. you will be surprised....

vote for new from Subaru O2 sensor. They go bad with that age and miles and don't throw codes even if they are marginal. Knock sensor too.

rally car.

what year is the car/engine model? I can get about 9 ecu's from ej22 91-94 legacy's they are around 15 bucks each near my junkyard.... if you want to try that route... otherwise that seems expensive to me on ecu's i bet the wiring, or alternator or something is bad in a splice. don't give up for a while.

I doubt a weber passes any emission test anyplace...as said they are not that kind of carb. better just swap to stock carb to pass, then go weber, or else better just sell it to someone who is in a state without testing. you won't ever pass with that weber. please pay attention on this thread for those in emissions testing areas- your weber is not going to pass..

do you have a roof rack? If so, it could leak where it mounts, then run down along the side panel/side glass into that area of the side and spare tire. Do you have any rust on the lower portion of the trim/back glass?

i could bring down my legacy and we could try to swap known good parts and you could verify wiring under the hood compared to a running ej22t, not sure if that would help. might help in the verifiying of connectors, wiring..

I actually have 2 spares of these now, one off a old gen and one off a mid 90's

If a east coast person sells a Brat, it is usually because it is past its safety point with rust./ie it failed inspection and is a parts BRAT only. You NEED to physically crawl under the BRAT, front and rear, and look at the frame rails and the rockers.

need to keep this thread going........for me.........either order new filter as is, or convert back to stock filter kidney... i can do it. but it may take some time, cause a weber to stock blue kidney filter has not been done. and did you see my pm on your right head breather? cause that was all wrong. did you look intto that . brent beers

i would love to be mechanic in a rust free area, everything is much more cake to work on, no broken bolts, seized stuff, etc... Being in the rust belt, no way i would mechanic as a living due to rusted.

Virginia must salt about like they do here. I just replaced one seized up on a 03 Baja. One side was stuck but i was able to free it up with time, vise grips, time, oil, time, pb blaster, time, oil, time..... But the other side was stuck as in not being able to free up no matter how much i soaked it, even took it out and hit it with a air chisel, slide hammer, etc, nothing, soaked for a week waiting on a new cable the dealer had to order in. New cable for the 03 was 25.xx from the dealer. The outback one cost more for some reason???? Not too bad really, a small bracket holding it to the lower control arm, and then take apart the center console, slit the rear carpet over the hump and a couple bolts holding the clamp down on the end, then slip the end off. Pushed the rubber seal down, cable out, new one in. -if yours is sticking, you will be able to tell by the hand on the center hub after a short drive. Both mine were toasty warm when it was dragging. Mine were stuck enough the brake wouldnt come on to hold the car, it was seized stuck, and wouldnt release enough on its own on the other side and dragged.