bheinen74

My 85 Brat with Hydro lifters did have the reddish orange seal, and i replaced mine with new it had a tear in it.

A job in the book at "2hours" is going to be double or more on a salt belt car, and you will need replacement nuts, bolts parts just to get it done. I still give good advice. seized rear wiper motor rusted out fuel filler necks brakes that have frozen slider pins etc

My advice, you are in Seattle, buy one from CA to WA area. Its not just body rust on the quarters, fenders, rockers, its ALL areas underneath that rust. Shock bolts, axle stub ends, exhaust, tailgate hinge release handles, everything you need to repair on the car, down to brake slides, calipers, will break when you take to a shop. The shops out there do not know how to deal with that type of rust in normal repair estimates. You will be really mad in the long haul. Stay away from east coast rust belt car, same for one from midwest.

I wanted to add, its possible new cars will not have mpg affects with using either types of fuels. ECU's can learn and adjust injection rates etc based on how sensors detect things. The older the car (no ECU's, or lesser ability on older ECU's to adjust) the more mpg could be affected. For new car owners, they probably like the cheaper cost and do not see a drop in power, mpg rates. Its people like the ones on this board who rely on cheap old reliable Subarus and we do sometimes notice worse fuel mileage with ethanol enriched formulas.

this is how you do it. follow this.

when you hooked up alternate power to the car, all dash lights on. check or replace your alternator with a good one.

April Fools maybe.

a 93 ej22 no way you could have bent the valves.. thats a good thing Do not use the piston marks on anything. Ignore them forever really. Only go by alignment marks on the picture. The crankshaft sprocket has a notch at the BACK. Use the back mark and align it to the notch on the block. This diagram provided is not very good. I will search for better. the mark is at the back.

NGK does a really decent quality control on the pre-gapping. I always check them, most all times dead on what they are supposed to be. I had an occasional one or 2 plugs off a slight bit, but nothing too far out.

i would suggest pull the interior inner trim panel inside the back that covers wheel wells on inside. plastic should snap out of the clips maybe a few screws. then you can see the conditions.

Is there any sort of alarm system installed in this car with ignition kill for theft?

i got beat by a knock sensor install.. i lost.

gonna crush the baja yet. nobody nobody has called.

well i guess i could say i started to gather parts for the swap. I think i accidently sold my last ej22t ecu. but still have ej22t longblock, crossmember, maf miscellaneous, etc.....maybe someday not anytime soon...

easy to remove if you aren't trying to save it, but lets assume you will be trying to reuse it. soak with penetrants, wiggle with some vice grips, not too much twisting at a time,just enough to make it budge slightly. resoak. wiggle, resoak, wiggle resoak. i have success on a few, and a few the metal just twisted apart on the housing to the sensor. if that happens, just beat them out. i have also vice gripped it, then tapped on the vice grip.

is your AC compressor froze up? The click could be from defroster circuit cycling on and off, if the AC compressor is seized, it could be shutting off your car. Where is your climate controls set at? ecu at pick n pull is not near 100 bones. more ;like 35-45 they rarely if ever fail. clicking usually involves some relay. My guess is AC. 328k is enuf miles a compressor might fail.

The test applies to most other cars, but does not apply to the ej25 dohc motor. it will pass the test. Your hg are needing replaced. you have bubbling coolant in the overflow after temp is achieved.

Yeah the foam strip purpose is to force air thru the radiator, not over top of it. witout it, the easy path for air is over top, so makes cooling system work harder than it needs. I have replaced the foam on a few with simple flexible plastic strips, cardboard, shingles, etc. You can be as creative as you want, but you should put something in there as opposed to going without.

glad it was oring. When they pressure check they usually hook the line up at the low pressure fitting to test leak down etc. If the oring on the valve where they check also leak, it will never show up, till after they fix the oring leak, and it will eventually leak out again. Always best to replace everything on the fittings. "you can install a brand new tire on a brand new rim, and trickl soapy water around front and back beads, and it might not leak, but you have to test the valve too... and AC places cant test it there where they hook up the equipment, if that valve leaks it wont be detected and you will lose refridgerant over time, DONT go to Waterloo Iowa Subaru dealer, they cannot properly replace all orings, even though they were asked to do so and paid to do so......

the guys over on http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/ are pretty joyous at running car faxes. This /usmb site will be the best choice for all other things regarding that car, but for car fax, usually i say svx net

ej22?

http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/guestlog2.html http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/guestlog3.html http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/guestlog4.html no you wanted some facts. Anybobdy with ej25 needs read this info. It is truth. Need a sticky on this for the usmb. Subaru never acknowledged an issue and treated the customers poorly, even those who were long time buyers. Notice the comments, never again, coming from a long time Subaru persons. EJ25 dohc is junk and here is the proof

new headgaskets on a ej22 will last 300k new headgaskets on a ej25 will last 150k NO. reliable from 100k to say 140k yes. after 150 no. PLEASE look at this log if you want to see some real world facts http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/guestlog1.html that log only is the first page....of many. the best quot on that page is """""I've driven Subarus and Hondas for years. My last Subaru before the Outback was a 94 Loyale Wgn. which was a great car, I learned to put up with the oil leaks which seemed to be never ending. I fixed them myself only to have them reappear. I'm not a novice mechanic, I'm certified to rebuild airplane engines and air frames and have restored antique Cord automobiles. The Loyale engine had design faults but was repairable and dependable. The phase 1 2.5 engine is an abomination. When my head gaskets failed I torn down the engine (to the crank) bearings were thin, pistons scored, wrist pins looked as though someone had been teething on them. I checked the heads, they weren't warped so it was simply head gasket failure because of poor design I suspect. I won't put this engine back in again. I'm in the process on fitting a 2.2 which I just finished going over. Subaru should do the same thing and use the 2.5s to build artificial reefs"""""" enuf but lets discuss to prove more facts- facts are truth check out the sources....one factualy source link is given i can give about 15 more if you want

people like the ej22 cause it goes 300k and no headgasket expense in average. People who go with ej25 DOHC do the headgasket on average 2 x at a high cost of 2g average, every 150k. 4g to run a ej25 DOHC to 300k, thats just HG cost or no cost to run a ej22 to 300k (no HG cost) My advice based on fact, is if you have a ej25 DOHC motor, you will have failed HG. 100% bet. If anyone argues that, talk to them when they try to hit the 150k mark.

When someone wins the lottery, they otta swap one of the FB into a BRAT, then crush the new platform for scrap, all the while video footage of the occurrence for youtube. BRAT will survive on FB soon. For Brat?