bheinen74

There's a threaded hole for a 10mm bolt to thread into to hold the crank in lock position to loosen the crank pulley bolt. Not many people on here mention it, but since I learned of it, is very very very very very very valuable info....... No problem loosening the crank bolt knowing this. -btw, the hole is on the passenger side of the bell housing about half way down, mid of the side. ****key thing is the head of the bolt must be tapered to a "sharpened pencil point like tip" not a flat bolt, so you can get the bolt into the recess of the gear on the flywheel.***** Haynes, the others, have been known to give wrong procedures, wrong torque figures, etc, even saying the crank bolt torque shoild be 72lb ft, when it reall needs be 127lb ft. This wrong procedure has been shown to ruin crankshafts. Dont use anything but a FHI manual for stuff like this. mkay

oh cool. I am glad i have AC if i need it, but i usually just crack the moonroof, and slide the fresh air control lever to full fresh air flow. fan off. get lots of FLO. I feel so bad for not driving this one much yet. the last one, identical year model, color, I purhcase in 1993 with 99k miles on it, and drove it til the year 2001 when i sold it with 226k showing. always wanted a justy as well, but i need AWD of some sort for the winter, and well, i like the tankness of my SS for winter. I wish i could test drive a Justy someday to see if i fall in love. -ps, i think i might be able to fit 6 Justy's in my garage, but right now can fit 2 hondas and 2 subies. If i have 5 hondas i know i could fit that as well.

Does your justy love 87 octane and no ethanol gas? thats what my CRX does best on at 750ft above sea level. I can get 42 on the highway going 65 and all around avg with town combined is more like 39.5mpg, but with full scare the crap out of you speed on the little rocket 2dr Si.

cool to your Justy and saving the MPG. Good job and nice thinking to be ahead of the times. -And I myself, cannot wait for the last ice and rock salt on the roads, followed by the first 2 rainstorms to wash the salt away. Going to get out my 40mpg 1991 CRX Si with 38k for summer and park everything else. ~hoping for May 10th for this. Gas might be 5.00 by then. I already saw 3.89 premium today. oh, and if gas hits 6.00 per Gallon....then your little Justy will go up in value like by 4X the current KBB, so awesome. Maybe we can even lol at the prius and hybrid drivers who paid 25k to get that mileage, when we paid minimal. Goodbye GMC, Ford, and DODGE trucks. small cars are cool. I would love a 360 van anyday now.

burned the bulbs out.

ATF for that new of one is a Subaru only fluid. Not CHEAP. I would wait it out til at least 30k or more. Maybe spend that money on something else, like some better tires or something.

I normally don't like hood pins, but in your case, i almost would recommend you install some.

This is the most common issue affecting new owner's of Subaru.

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i am headed out now, but it was a transmission rebuild "supplier" out of Texas that i found the clutch packs available. for less than 50 i searched for 4eat rebuild at the time. then i went to friction clutch section.

usually find it easiest to leave the cables attached to the control panel, and disconnect it under where it goes to the blend doors under the dash. the black cables are pretty easy to follow, then just reattach the same way when done. Remember how the cables are routed.

that's alot of timing belts. Did the stock level of them get depleted?

sounds like insurance fraud if they are going for 10g. Require some more quotes independantly on your own. Maybe this guy is buddy buddy with some autbody shops, and maybe he has buddies in the insurance industry What is the year, make, model, mileage of this said truck

yes, find a lending handle to pull the cable and watch it with the rotor off to see if the shoes are expanding out. just cause the handle pulls up, it could easily be collapsing the sheathing the cable goes thru and coil the cable, making you think it it moving the shoes.... I am surprised on a Auto, they won't pass it. Ebrake is not required on a auto, but for sure is needed on a 5speed. probably seized up due to non use....

yes. they are supposed to be adjusted at the shoes first, with the handle adjuster at the loosest setting. adjust 3-4 turns back off from when they hold the rotor. then if you need further adjustment or later, adjust at the handle. I still bet you have seized cables, on one or both sides. given your location. The right side on mine was seized in it would try to pull the shoes to a certain point then give up motion, but then wouldnt release hold via the spring easily. The left side was just plain seized, it wouldnt move tighter to begin with, and for sure was loosening. Theres a oblong rubber plug on the bottom inside to get to the adjuster slot. Took Ramsey 1week and 3 days to receive my cable. All the time the vehicle was down, well, up on jackstands waiting to get back together, just so i can sell it.

not going to find part numbers for BRAT power steering. what did it come off of? BRAT did not offer power steering. Yours ,must be retrofit.

just had this on the 2003 baja. both emergency brake cables to the rear wheels were seized. I was able to get oil and penetrant to free up the passenger side, but no soaking of oil cold even free the driver side. Had to get a new cable. pretty sure the tiny cables were frayed enough in the driver side and once that happens, its toast. Baja cable was 25.97. outback cables look pricier.

this thread is turning hilarious. first we have vtec. then we get an uneven seat reason as twitch noted. lol, uneven seat, get it, when the seat side cushion is worn lol it makes you sit uneven.... no just kdding i get it, valve seat......right?.:-\

my 82 Brat and my 83 GL wagon had the glovebox mirror. my 85 BRAT nope.

eating is what it is doing, eating your CD's I bet it can be removed, and reset. probably some lever got hung up at the wrong time. probably will work fine after it is removed.

Kitty Hair. good stuff. we are talking a 3,000 dollar car here, not a 67 Camaro worth thousands if restored with new metal. Make it nice, cheap, and proven to work. Don't pay a body guy hundreds to fix a 3000 dollar car. And from your quote, many get junked due to the HeadGasket. A 1000 dollar repair on a car worth 3g, well, not worth it, easier to junk it.

BAJA and BRAT are non pull levers too. At least the Brat has the round shiny chrome turn knob on it, people are mesmerrized how to get that one open.

Wondering if anyone has ever used this stuff? called Gibbs Brand the link is here http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/ I am trying to restore some sport mags and random came across this. anybody heard of it, or better yet, tried it?

Not much i can say positive about the alarm, cause the 92 model had 100% failure of them. What SVX.net recommends is putting the module in from a newer SVX, say 95 or newer, when they addressed the failing portion. It has same connector, and btw, have FUN getting yours out of the glovebox. What a terrible design of installation/removal.

overheating the EJ25 or did you get a code for this?