bheinen74

you still got more rust to cut out. pull the interior plastics, trim pieces. pop rivot som sheetmetal from the inside (license plate, old scrap metal etc). Then skimcoat it with bondoglass or kittyhair. Sand smooth. finish off with primer sealer coats, then some good paint. gotta appreciate the rust free ones when they show up.

hands clap for GD.

I remember OKC pick n pull last summer: lots of old nice rustfree cars, with HUGE hail dents all over totalled out from basketball size hail that hit. Can you get some scrap lumber and build some sort of 2x4 frame and cover it with plywood sheets over the Brat.

You guys get baseball to softball size hail numerous times a year. Nothing but a garage will protect from that. Are there any rental storage units you could find to put it in.

somebody is stealing your gas when its parked? maybe not Get a lock gas cap, cause when gas hits 4 bucks a gallon, thugs will be stealing it then,

The newer ones, if the car has something going wrong on certain electrical, the trans cannot be shifted if its an auto and no electricity. I have had connectors come loose from harness to trans casing this. I have seen dead batteries cause this. I have seen failed alternators or something loose cause this. Even with a key, without elctrical working eqauls no shifty in a auto equipped car. There is a "shiftlock" button accessed from near the shift lever that allows defeat of necessary electricity to shift. Also, if the car doesnt have the shift lock, can crawl under car, disconnect the shift cable from the passenger side of trans. Remove cotter key lock, removed cable, shift car selecter. Sometimes you don't have a key. I have had to do this on EVERY engine removal in a junkyard car (only auto cars) when the junkyard car has no keys, or no battery.

tow operator fail.

For Subaru's knock sensor standard wear item to replace after 100k same goes for CTS

MAP sensor.?

this is suck. Yeah it's totalled One reason the throttle stuck after is maybe you broke the engine mounts and the throttle cable was getting tight at the angle the engine slide. Hope you are ok.

dang, i knew i forgot to pick up the real extendable magnet thingy. What i use is a harddrive magnet taped to a screwdriver. I knew i was forgetting something again. yeah figured out the tape thing. hope the threads tap out fine, they should didnt go too much. even self discovered a new mount hole for the knock sensor.

Got "defeated" trying to change out a knock sensor last night. The angle wasa okay to remove it, but trying to start the bolt back kind of bugarred the thread. I did have a set of 3/8 drive swivel 6pt socket but something a little smaller would have probably got it from the start. So, i picked up these today i needed this. 1/4 inch drive swivels, 12mm and 14mm 6pt Crafstman 3/8 wobble extension 1/4 drive long extension I got beat last night on it, now i will maybe have better lucks.

As long as you know there is potential for bottom end damage, yeah should be able to get a decent 5-6 G price on a known bad engine/turbo.

unfortunatley, there is major failure rate (90% failure rate around 60k mile mark) on that era of Turbo Legacy. Something about the banjo bolt clogging and starving it of oil, then it pukes its metal guts into the intake of the engine. You can read ALL about it over on http://www.legacygt.com/ all you gotta do is join there and joint eh blown turbo group club they have. Sorry for the bad string of luck and poor quality issues of the newer era stuff. Are you still in warranty? If so, SOA will replace the trubo at no cost, but they are stiffing customers when it comes to engine replacement due to it puking into the intake.

cotton prices are . . . going.. ^ | ^ | ^ | use old socks, recycle t shirts that are stained. etc.

yep can say about same i got mine used rebuilt, same with the vent to lower housing, clip etc......my choke was installed in reverse, so when it heated up, it pulled choke closed........i was not so happy..... ? made in China? i bet. economy sucks, i am jobless. now, If you have question on how to vent your lines and hoses, i can take pics to help you.

I still have a hard time stomaching the fact that something that was standard on all Legacy models from 90-94, was dropped off due to cost savings. I could see it in the Impreztel line, but the Legacy, come on. Now, I hope Subaru will make a impretzel 2 dr fwd model with no maplights in the 2012 model year, with a 1.5L that gets 45mpg... yay that would be cheap to buy. But, no they wont do it for us here. Hope you get your map lights, i Just saw St Louis was the worst rated town for crime, need map lights here i go there so often. Also of the top 10 worst cities for crime, 4 were where i live. KC, St Loius, Detroit, MNpls. all on the list. I need map lights to get the F out of those places after night baseball games, and a map light could save my life, your life, etc.

Cool first stop report, in the bulleseye of Tornado Alley.

The one I got from Ebay 2 years back for a total of 9.15, (the pump was 2bucks and shipping was 7.15)

theres are thread about installing map light into one over ono SubaruOutback.org

Nice BRAT. Keep good care of this one.

That s unfortunate. Map lights are important for stuff like looking at maps in S. Chicago at night.:cool: Do you have a tach even? Those kind of things were standard on the 94 and older ones....Guess they didnt think it was necessary for that car to have map lights.

make sure you get all the retaining nuts off from the inside hatch area. The tailight is epoxied into the body with some really really really nasty black caulking/tar crap. You should take a heat gun/ hairdrier to the edges to get the tar stuff warm and flexy, then it will take lots of steady pulling to get it out. <---from experience as well. Man they built those things like tanks. no accident is going to rip one of those suckers out. The new ones, heck, they fall out after a few years, or if hit.

just passed thru salvage inspection. Now have regular title, with note for prior salvage. sale pending too.

adjust it just so the choke is open almost all the way when cold, then apply 12v to the lead. if it is backwards it will close up after a few minutes. then you know its wrong. i put money on it that is it.