bheinen74

is this a electronic choke? sounds like the way mine was. The choke coil mechanism was in backwards. as it heated up, the choke closed. I had to take the choke apart and reverse the way the spring coil is. just takes 3 screws and a needle nose to pull it out the slot. reverse, put together, done.

washed it going to get the salvage rebuilt inspection hopefully tomorrow if they have time.

probably the oil pressure switch leaking. Or perhaps leaking at the oil filter where it threads on. I would get a second opinion. If he saw oil leaking there, fine. But for it to burn on the exhaust, i say its yet another leak too. Or else you have a torn right side axle boot dripping/spraying grease onto your y pipe.

You should expect to shop around a little more for a better deal, thats crazy. Thats 2/3 the value of a 98 Forester. It's good that you are fixing it, it's a great idea to swap to a 2.2 for longevity and reliability, but not at the cost of 2700. WOW>

classic HG description, key is about 15-20 minutes, the exhaust gases are super heated and blowing into the coolant. You have bubbles.

Heater core hoses? those are alongside the firewall, kinda back by the starter. Sorry bud, you have joined the "HG Club". You most likely have classic headgasket failure. You should first check make sure the fans are connected, and they turn fine. You could try to replace the radiator cap with a new one. Add coolant to the correct level on the overflow tank. Make sure the radiator had been burped well. When the car is running, do you see bubbles in the overflow tank?

lots of updates to tell. fixed the headlights/grill/bumper/hood alignment now is this seats are redone free flow exhaust installed now too waiting for warm temps to hit this weekend to wash and get these all nice. asking 3000.

most mechanics around here turn down work on a Subaru. It's JAP to them, they usually only know how to work on Grand Ams, Gand Prixs, Fords, and Chrysler. Just the way it is in the midwest. Even Subaru Dealer refused to work on SVX.

My father did the opposite, since we couldn't locate a Forester spoiler anywhere in a 4 state radius, and with my posts n the boards asking to buy one. Lots (maybe 3 or 4 GL around here in the yards, so finally one of them had the rear spoiler. He mounted it on the Forester. I am not sure the Forester one would work on a GL. He didn't do it for looks, he did it for purpose. It helps blow the dirt, snow, dust off the back window when driving that would normally accumulate on the glass causing a view problem.

Wow Mick. The Grizz sure has been keeping you busy. Hope you still have time to do normal other things. What about a spring meetup near DM this March? Glad to hear Grizz is getting some maintenance, just worried about when you will be done with it.

Make sure the connectors to the transmission from the harness are firmly attached, and there is no corrosion, dirt, moisture at the connectors. These connectors are near the firewall tunnel.

Did the mechanic set timing right? If a pulley bearing let go, it very well may have jumped. Does the mechanic know about Subaru interference engine, or what marks to use?

Well, i have had 5 subarus with failed CTS and they stutter when warming up. then ran fine when warm. Don't think you been there. I have.

I still think his "autozone" coolant temp sensor is the WHOLE problem. Replace it. The symptoms you have listed are 100% that. go with OEM, even a used one is better. report back

Great price. cheers. Is it fwd or 4wd model? The CVT trans is junk -better hope they were right that it needs a clutch, that means its a manual, dodged a bullet already

in the pic the belt looks old original glazed. never been changed before.

Coolant Temp Sensor description for sure. They won't throw a code. -About 20 bucks new. You might have gotten a bad one. Try another parts place than the one you just got.

Wiring can be run from along the driver fender back to where the door/fender/windshield corner meet, then run the wire up along the A pillar seal from there to the top, wrap around and onto the roof rack. Hella 500 are good. Make sure you get Hella and not the fake "optilux hella" which Hella does not really mark there name on for a reason. Cheap approach to mount is use the stainless hose clamps to tighten the brackets they come with to the roof rack bars. Those stainless hose clamps will clamp it nicely, won't rust, and they can take the shape of most anything, and are quite secure.

gen2

v8 BRAT done here is just one

Pretty sure has to be shock upper mount? or the mustache bar bushing to frame? Do you have a quick picture?

OEM or is it garbage parts store stock?

I clicked on the link you provided in post 1 "It works or we'll buy it back from ya with our "Buy It Back" Guarantee!" Simple fix. Get the right one. I suggest radiatorbarn.com

This stuff I put a pack on each floor under the seat, and one in the glovebox, and sometime one in the trunk. It's not a poison, its a scented pouch that is mint/peppermint and mice will stay far from it.