bheinen74

In past experience in the automotive world of "new" alternators, a high percentage are bad even when new. The only way to avoid this is to buy OEM from the dealer. There is a reason new from dealer are 200 bucks and new from autocrap are 65. You get what you pay for. Better to go to junkyard and get low milage unit.

If you want that car to run right, you will stick with OEM wires, and NGK plugs. Same if you go change out the o2, stick with OEM (if you want the car to perform correctly) If you don't care, then go to autozone and put on the crappy aftermarket stuff. Lots of threads on here about the tune up topics. Subarus, because of the wasted spark design, are very picky when it comes to ignition. Please get a new Timing belt installed, or you will destroy your valves when it snaps. That "belt squeel" you hear at startup, could be the T belt slipping, or it could be the alternator belt. But for sure, you are due for the T belt, the next time you start it could just snap. Keep at it, but read up here before you just go throw on some parts from a autozone or oreilly, etc.

old thread yes. Are you really serious about the tsb? But when my knee or foot hurts and I go to a doctor, they don't saw my leg off to fix that hurt. Subaru should have addressed the buggy computer, unfit sensors, etc, and not saw off the toe hook. How can you tow a car or haul it on a hauler if the tow hooks are gone? Subaru needs to spend more time in research and engineering, especially the new stuff they claim to make. This is ridiculous. And the pdf at no point advises them to apply rust proof paint after they hack off the hook. WOW i am shocked, they could care less of a fix that will cause rust with bare metal. All I ask is that the Subaru engineers do a better job in the new models than has been occurring. brent

Yes, watch out for shade tree stores like "Brakes Plus" and Midas. Those places have been documented on nightline, 20/20, etc shows as being crooked. They have a box of worn thru rotors and pads strictly to scare people into buying something. And of course, in the end, you ask for your old parts back, WELL guess what, the nightline show had marked/stamped the old parts, and what they got back was not stamped. Basically, they had new parts on the car, MARKED, and went in for inspection, and was told they needed new brakes. they asked for old parts back, paid the 450 dollar service fees, and got ripped off. Go back to the shows shop, pull off the "new" parts from Brakes Plus, and they are still stamped with their own marking from before.-NO new parts......lots of places like that around.

Most all of members over there consider motors will be done and blown at 150k, and they just rebuild them. The members we have on here would like o think they are just at the half life at that mileage, but the ej25d can be junk by 150k, just another boat anchor.

A 98-2002 Forester with a good engine is really a nice driving nimble car with tons of room. Its just hard to find a good engine in one, anywhere. That can tell you the engine was not the best to begin with. Lots of good information. Pretty much every Forester i have come across is either "Bad Engine" in the yard, or in need of headgaskets on a lot, to be good. I don't care for the new ones they got too Huge. The pre 2007 are about right sized, but I cannot justify the hefty prices they bring knowing they need an engine sometime down the road.

^ | Shake much at speed?

The 98-2002 are nice years of Foresters. My dad has a 98 and he had to completely redo the headgaskets, as well as repair wrecked damage. Even though the car only cost 500 to buy (wrecked) he has another 2+ G into it in parts, 525 just for HG stuff/Tbelt, oulleys, cam seals etc, and the other is used panels, paint, misc. While looking for parts for his 98 at the yards, one yard had 4 Foresters lined up, mostly 98 and 99. All 4 at that place had written "Bad engine" on the windshields. Another yard, had just one, and it had "bad engine", and we finally found a 01 Forester in a pick n pull, and the engine was pulled from it. So, out of 6 or so we have come across, all have had bad engines. Hard to find one selling even on Craigs that actually has a nice engine, and even if the HG have said to been redone, how do you know they were done right and with OEM stuff. I see car lots advertising them for 4-5 G all the time, and i would put good money on it that those even had bubbles in the overflow. "she's looking to spend no more then $2,000 for a 1999 and I told her that's not going to happen for a loong while. Most seem to still be priced in the $3500-4200 range." If your mom only wants to spend 2G, I am pretty sure you are going to be out of luck on getting a good one. In my opinion, if the HG is found to be bad, the top price a seller should sell for is 1500, but instead like you found, they are in the 3500 to 4200 range, around here its more 4-5g range, and for sure i have looked at some and the overflow is bubbling right off that bat.

-NO. That is not even correct. Turbo ea81, turbo ea82, and for sure the 91-94ej22t turbo were non-interference.

the 91-94 Turbo Legacy trans is metal. I confirm that. Not sure why the non-turbos of that era would be any different at all. Its a fine mesh metal. If you replace it, go with a Subaru OEM because if what you are finding is made different, it may harm something.

The filter just inside the pan, is not paper, it is a metal screen. I have never seen one that needed cleaned. You will probably just need to remove the drain plug, and wipe off all the flakes of junk on the plug. Drain, refill with how much you took out. Measure into jug how much you drained. If you do mess with the filter, you will need to go get a o-ring cause it will be shot. It not really the easiest thing to remove if you go that route, but you will see it is not dirty and its just more a hassle to even mess with that.

Great. This should improve gas mileage for you just a little too. Awesome.

first off how many miles on the bearing grinder? theyvusually get noisy sometime after 165k miles

please check back in here and post how the fix is resolved...thanks

My dad has always been complaining the AM part of the stock radio on his 06 Legacy limited is staticy. He says FM is fine. I think its just a Subaru thing, AM radio sucks on a Subaru. Anyone else here confirm either way. What can he do? My dad is 72 and he will not be able to replace with anything other than stock, he cannot hit the small buttons on the good stuff he barely know how to use this one, the push in volume knob he always has fader, treble bass all messed up cause he doesnt know what he is doing. On his old Audi 100 ls, the radio was german, and the dial was backwards, so turn the tune nob left, the dial went right. So he turned the radio upside down, he about got divorced on that. Lets just say others have AM problem, I can tell him to trade the car or something if that happens. thanks

no tpms will set off a code. Having a present code that does not clear, can affect alot.

all the newer ones can have some issues. While this board is by far the superior message board, you will want to spend some time over on http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/ and read up. steering shimmy, SHAKERS, handling, poor heat, moisture, roof rack issues, headlights burning out prematurely, bad tires, bad shocks, bearings, unsafe engine dying when pulling to stopsigns, cvt shift issues, paint issues, etc etc etc, etc all the topics you need are there.

lots of other cars actually use more than a toothpick type clip to hold the rubbers into the door. - Subaru needs to design these better. Wax the door jambs so they are smooth. Applying silicone and conditioner does help, but the whole design is partly to blame, of those ridiculously small and flimsy poorly designed clips.

I know what this thread needs and now: pics of pistons all on a table one pic showing ea71, ea81, ea82, ej18, ej22, and ej25, and maybe a eg33 in there too beuler.

the newer ones are even worse than the old ones. 2 steps backward in the engineering of them for a cold climate. Screws may hold the door rubbers, sure dont work the way the engineers did it.

it is the exhaust ypipe /catalytic converter high heat burning it up. if you have an old license plate, you can use it to make a heat shield between the exhaust and the axle. -or it is the lift they installed was not proper... Does it have crossmember lift blocks? It HAS to have crossmember lift blocks on a ea81. -thats a must

http://www.rightdrive.ca/ has this one for sale for 17,999 its a 555 rally car, not quite 22b right?

does anyone know if the FB25(new block subaru is introducing in the 2011 Forester) is a interference design?

here goes the thread for those of you saying interference will not harm the pistons, or the block. This thread shows what can happen, darn it Subaru, why not stay with non-interference this would never of happened in any ej22 of pre95 So all those posts, saying the block is fine when a t belt snaps, well, here is the pudding of the proof.