bheinen74

I also say buy it back, and if you had 3 new winterforces, go buy another for the 4th, have it installed, and there is always a smuck wanting snowflakes with brand new snows (maybe me) willing to make it worth your time even if a new WF costs 120, you can sell a new set on snowflakes for 400 or so. then sell the drivetrain and what else you can. scooped hood goes for a bills too....etc etc. most electronics including sensors will need to be scrapped. you could always chop the back end off and make it a wheeler. lots of things you could do...just be smart.

Pretty much 101% of us recommend kyb gr-2 Why someone would order Gabriel, or monroe, i have no clue on that thought process. A lot of places mentioned with links, have free shipping on gr-2. There is a big price difference among the distributors posted. check them all out. I have used AJUSA numerous times on different peoples cars, their price is the lowest out there, and the free shipping seals the deal.

man thats cheap.

according to the some 6 or 8 forums i read on this, the answer is heck no its not worth it. get a garmin and get your free updates every year.

timing a tooth off perhaps on a cam?

try going back to oem wires, NGK does not = oem.

are you running oem plug wires? Subarus don't like the aftermarket wires, they are VERY picky when it comes to that. also, depending on your year, it could be a cracked knock sensor that is getting moisture in it....

i recommend as soon as one gets a newer car, to remove the nuts and apply a good coating of antisieze on these boogers, for down the road..

i also say its very likely to be the bulbs. in fact, over on NHTSA there are MANY complaints from newer Subaru owners, of the bulbs lasting a premature life on the newer ones, of which this is considered. For sure, there are NUMEROUS problems with the bulbs going out on that pos style light and the proof is in the high numbers of complaints, enough that Subaru should but won't issue a full recall. oops just read that it was the bulbs...i was on page 1 when i replied didnt see your post on page 2.

nothing is reliable when it takes a bath. doh that really looks bad. is it still in there? those snow flakes are worth going back to get.

oh, forgot to say that the dealers here in Iowa do not recommend to replace the idler pulleys/bearings..... I find that unresponsible for a Subaru dealer to say to not replace them. I am sure other :good" dealers would recommend it, and that is why i would never use a Iowa Subaru service center.

It is probably about due for new headgaskets, no joke. Bet they are leaking oil, again i am serious.

bathroom is great for me to paint cause it has exhaust fan to get out the stinky spray. I should have taken a picture after, the amount of sanding dust, and overspray dust was INSANE on everything in there. it was terrible to clean. and i get to do it again cause the color match is pretty bad...

A stuck or siezing caliper slider pin will also cause the brake pads to hang up and drag cause they cannot slide over when letting off the fat pedal. I would try a different shop next time and make sure they used caliper grease on the stuff recommended. A brake job is not simply removing pads and rotors and replacing them. Its inspecting movement and applying the CORRECT grease where needed, for the pad holders, and the slide pin/pivots. Dont use Midas, or "Just Brakes" for doing your brakes. Most tire shops can be a good source, i have replaced my own brakes, lubricated using correct grease, on all my own cars since 1987. I usually have the rotors resurfaced once, and keep several nos as backups. I find i usually get about 100k miles of driving after my brake jobs.........before the pads are getting to the indicators. I dont ride my brakes and hardly ever do more than ease into my stops. Some people slam there brakes on, and its those drivers that need new breaks every 20k. Not me. Also, I usually 90% of the tims use OEM from the dealer pads, they are much longer lasting than aftermarket, parts store crap that is generic and not engineered for the particular car, weight factors, etc. OEM pads will last 100k. oreillys, autozone, napa, etc those pads will last 50 or less. I like to only spend the money every 100k miles so i pay higher and get the best i can, from the dealer.

I dont see how you will get any needed down travel on the solid axle when its "on top" of the frame rail. Thats going to be noisy as all heck when the axle shaft hits the frame all the time.

firsthand experience, don't buy the lateral link if the bolt is seized in it, go get another that the bolt comes out of. A yard sold my brother the entire crossmember so he could get his lateral links and we simply could not get them out of the crossmember it was seized at the inner bolt, poundeing, heating etc it was seized in the bushing. We took it back and found one car out of 5 at a yard that we could get the bolts out of. Luckily, on my bros car, the bolts came out fine. when you put it back together apply antisieze.

since the ea81 clutch cable direct from subaru is only 12.95, why put something aftermarket on it (as said they are inferior when bought aftermarket).

i use the kitchen sink and a brass bristle brush and the scotchpad.

also check price on them at: http://www.ajusa.com they have free ship http://www.tirerack.com I myself always go with ajusa on stuff like shocks and k&n b

always take an ej25 for test drive of 10-15 minutes, and pop the hood while engine is running -warm, and check into the overflow for ANY bubbles. If you see any bubbles, then the headgasket has failed.

while you are at it, buy the Subaru BRAT timing belt tensioner sold here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Timing-Belt-Tensioner-STANDARD-BRAT-RX-XT-GL-DL-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem483375191dQQitemZ310100957469QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_6195wt_1088 and dont forget the bolt on turbo kit for bRat as seen here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Brat-T3T4-TurboCharger-Turbo-Kit-/350419476022?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5196a0de36 and for even more power buy this Brat turbo kit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Brat-T3T4-Turbo-Charger-Kit-/350296212317?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item518f48035d

hardly see any rust. por-15 is good but it wont stick to slick smooth for very long.

probably the strongest and most well built engine subaru ever made. Things under there get brittle like glass, all hoses, rubber lines etc, electrical wiring for sensors. All due to the turbo heat. The engine will not have issues internally if maintained, but plan on new hoses for most everything including coolant and vacuum lines crossover, breather hoses etc. I have seen them with 400k miles and still going strong with those types of upkeep. non interference design, parts are shared accross the non turbo model for the most part. i enjoy all of mine previous, present, and future.

paint booth time

yes my paint booth is the bathroom. -when its 5 degrees outside and windchill of -20, projects have to be brought into the house. -preparing the bumper with some primer/sealer at this point.