bheinen74

NOS 82-87 Brat tailgate chrome new in the package.

good fender put on today realigned hood installed corner lights adjust headlight mounts that had to be glued back on and pulled out the radiator support aligned grill. all that is now looking really good. but..... my replacement bumper beam also has a bend in it so i got to get that sorted out. It is bent on the passenger side, the original is bent on driver side. I have to drill out the mount brackets spot welds and make a good one since there are no other Turbo cars in the yards.. more to come.

I am going back in Spring to get my roll bar. nice bump. this guy has EVERYTHING you ever wanted, a 1932 ford with subaru 4wd drivtrain/engine. many many many brats, etc etc etc. This it Subaru heaven at this place. NO JOKE and i put caps on that for a reasonm IT IS A MUSEUM full of Subaru parts. The guy that runs it is a genious.

36" s on a Brat will be cool as common as a turbo SVX perhaps. jk Mick you are going all balls out on this one i want pics when you get them mounted and i will race you pink slips my BRAT for your BRAT, just not in any mud bogs. that is what you BRAT needed. i cannot wait to see it.

anyone put 36" on any subaru yet? WOW your title says "build is done um, maybe not perhaps? this outta be interesting.

today: made sure the spark plug wasnt loose. made sure cam sprocket wasnt loose proceeded with removal of rocker supports on driver side. Found one HLA that was spongy, so replaced it with a good spare from some parts i had laying around. Put everything back together. Ooh smooth quiet no tick tick tick tick tick. Has a CEL so i hooked up diagnostic connectors under the dash. Code was 22: knock sensor proceeded to clear codes, it comes back wont clear. remove knock sensor. yep it was cracked in several locations. replaced with one i had laying around. cleared codes, did not come back. smooth Then next set of things i did was remove old bumper beam and remove driver fender. Then i pulled on the bent stuff using come along and ratchet straps (used my other 94ss toe hook as the anchor point, to get most everything back in place. I have about 1/2inch more to go on the driver side, passenger side fine. Put on replacement fender just temporary 3 bolts. Put on other bumper just temporary. need to go 1/2" more and should be happy.

Just wanted to share my pictures of the most recent build i am working on. car: 1994 Legacy Sport Sedan5mt issue: bought at auction from CA, you can see the extent of the bulk of damage here. other things: lifter tick, tick tick. I changed the oil and ran it for some time, but think i have air in the hla's on one cyl (bleeding some spare hla's now from a spare set of heads) and will see if i can get that fixed Wednesday, its the front side nearest battery using scope. tomorrow high supposed to be 35 so i can deal with that temp for the 2 hour or so job of replacing the hlas. It is sure a pretty color. Already have bumper and beam, and fender and corner lights. Hopefully i wont have more into it than it can sell for, window is cracked in center, rear spoiler needs repainted. Main thing is no rust. using the stock exhaust to put on my red 94, that exhaust will go to this car. keeping the wheels as spares, next pictures will show it wearing some WRX 16" wheels.

yeah that bottom right not so bad to just replace later. the old one felt good still so i reused it had no choice really. andi am still trying to get back in the cahir i fell out of laughin on the "8 year old school girl from Pakistan" comment. thanks i needed a laugh.

my baja, brat, and svx love the single color ones. in never figured out why Subaru did not 2-tone the gas lid to make it look little more refined on the two-tones.

okay ordered a timing belt kit for my 03 Baja on Monday. Kit arrives Wednesday, thats super fast. Problem when i tear down my sohc baja, i find the lower right idler bearing on mine has a guide, seen in this pic compared to the Import Experts kit, notice no guide. Pic here now, there was a sheet of paper documenting something in regards to this. Problem is, my cam sprocket on the passenger side does not have the back guide on that cam gear, and the new bearing does not have the guide on it. Kit instructions say must use a guide. So, i had to reinstall and use my old bearing there. Otherwise the belt is likely to slip off. (left side cam gear has a guide on the back). right none. what a crock of poop. So. my rant... i should have gone to subaru for the right parts. and the belt in their kit looks like a rubber band. If i had plans to keep this car, i would not use their belt. But since i am selling it, who cares. The old belt i pulled off had cracks in the outer part original to the car with 159k on it. . the belt in the kit is made in USA so i feel a little better. comments.? yes there needs be a guide whether the back cam sprocket, or guide on the bearing. basically if you use the bearing they give you your belt could slip off the back or work back and rub something.

its a splash shield for the distributor and carb. I have/had one on mine, last i checked but it might have fallen out.

installed Timing Belt kit on the BAJA which i have for sale.

me either. nice job to make it one color.

when you get a turbo Baja, just swap the 2 hoods before you get rid of the non turbo that way you rock the non scooped hood. you will then likely want to make your own hidden ductwork to flow some cool air to over the turbo. The scoop hood does that but for sleeper look, you will figure it out. good luck.

is it leaking oil at the heads where they meet the block? thats appearing to be the most common type on the new ones. Not near as bad as the leaking coolant or the compression blowing into the cooling jackets causing bubbles and coolant blowout. if its just oil, and you are using synthetic, maybe just switch to non synthetic it might stop.

money aint an issue i would say buy a factory turbo Baja since they did make that, and then hop it up, put on a non turbo hood, and go for sleeper look. sell yours to fun some of the project.

^ do you have pics?

also could be tire noise try to rotate them front to back see if the problem changes where it seems be from

On any subaru never use a "local auto parts store for a t'stat" only go OEM. some thread on here shows the pics comparing the whimpy flimsy aftermakert one to the genuine oem subaru part. its like apples to bananas.

how long has the knocking occurred? before you replaced the axles did it knock? did it get worse after the 4k mile ago axle job? what brand axles did you put in? they are notoriuos for being bad right out the box unless they come from Subaru. Most us find the parts store ones to knock right out the box and shake and be bad from the day one. "Don't trust any mechanic" if they are not familiar with Subaru.

sorry. and btw i found the motherload of info here: http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/research/reports/fullreports/551.1.pdf 50 pages to source on this, charts, etc, love it. quote from page 37 " On bare pavement, the studded tires had stopping distances 40 percent and 42 percent longer than the Blizzaks and all-season tires, respectively. " and page 39 "For concrete, though, studded tires required longer stopping distances than highway tires. On dry pavement, a vehicle equipped with two studded tires required 11 percent longer distances to stop and 16 percent longer when the concrete was wet. For four studded tires, this difference increased to 16 percent for dry conditions and 32 percent for wet conditions. Though such statistics may not be entirely valid for today’s CP studs, radial tires, and ABS, they still indicate a trend that is likely to be valid: studded tires on wet or dry concrete provide less traction than non-studded tires. This is likely because the studs cannot penetrate the harder roadway surface, which actually lowers the effective coefficient of friction, in much the same way as studded tires lose effectiveness on ice at lower temperatures. " please if someone knows of some more recent study, post it here and continue this thread. I want to know.

also, it appears that noises and knocks are sometimes misdiagnosed, but are real symptoms of Axles that are bad, or even wheel bearings, so first eliminate those items before spending on a trans replacement.

Does anyone else besides me have those "yaktrax" that you put on boots. Have you ever gone into a supermarket with those babies on? Wow, on dry hard surface, pretty much sums up how Studded tires are on dry hard surface. You cant stand up on Yaktrax, and that should tell something about metal spikes. I guess you could put some spiked football cleats on and try to play basketball on a hard surface gymnasium floor. same thing. Make your own decision on this, I just like to put out the way it is. If you live in the high mountains, and drive on unplowed roads, heck yeah studs are most sure the way to go. Otherwise, i suggest listening to some facts.

I am new to the BAJA world too, but from what i see, they are based on the Outbacks 2000-2004 Outbacks to be specific. I would say best to stay with those years. Yeah they continued the Baja for 2 more years past Outback era because they had enough demand of them. they actually hacked some Outback wagons at the factory to make into some Bajas when the supply was low on the lots, I want to learn more but I am not expecting to keep mine, i bought it to flip since i have lost my job.

Really like the clean look of this car. whats the wheel color? is that gold, or a bronze or what. I am gonna go that look on my ABM 94SS