bheinen74

Just wanted to share my pictures of the most recent build i am working on. car: 1994 Legacy Sport Sedan5mt issue: bought at auction from CA, you can see the extent of the bulk of damage here. other things: lifter tick, tick tick. I changed the oil and ran it for some time, but think i have air in the hla's on one cyl (bleeding some spare hla's now from a spare set of heads) and will see if i can get that fixed Wednesday, its the front side nearest battery using scope. tomorrow high supposed to be 35 so i can deal with that temp for the 2 hour or so job of replacing the hlas. It is sure a pretty color. Already have bumper and beam, and fender and corner lights. Hopefully i wont have more into it than it can sell for, window is cracked in center, rear spoiler needs repainted. Main thing is no rust. using the stock exhaust to put on my red 94, that exhaust will go to this car. keeping the wheels as spares, next pictures will show it wearing some WRX 16" wheels.

yeah that bottom right not so bad to just replace later. the old one felt good still so i reused it had no choice really. andi am still trying to get back in the cahir i fell out of laughin on the "8 year old school girl from Pakistan" comment. thanks i needed a laugh.

my baja, brat, and svx love the single color ones. in never figured out why Subaru did not 2-tone the gas lid to make it look little more refined on the two-tones.

okay ordered a timing belt kit for my 03 Baja on Monday. Kit arrives Wednesday, thats super fast. Problem when i tear down my sohc baja, i find the lower right idler bearing on mine has a guide, seen in this pic compared to the Import Experts kit, notice no guide. Pic here now, there was a sheet of paper documenting something in regards to this. Problem is, my cam sprocket on the passenger side does not have the back guide on that cam gear, and the new bearing does not have the guide on it. Kit instructions say must use a guide. So, i had to reinstall and use my old bearing there. Otherwise the belt is likely to slip off. (left side cam gear has a guide on the back). right none. what a crock of poop. So. my rant... i should have gone to subaru for the right parts. and the belt in their kit looks like a rubber band. If i had plans to keep this car, i would not use their belt. But since i am selling it, who cares. The old belt i pulled off had cracks in the outer part original to the car with 159k on it. . the belt in the kit is made in USA so i feel a little better. comments.? yes there needs be a guide whether the back cam sprocket, or guide on the bearing. basically if you use the bearing they give you your belt could slip off the back or work back and rub something.

its a splash shield for the distributor and carb. I have/had one on mine, last i checked but it might have fallen out.

installed Timing Belt kit on the BAJA which i have for sale.

me either. nice job to make it one color.

when you get a turbo Baja, just swap the 2 hoods before you get rid of the non turbo that way you rock the non scooped hood. you will then likely want to make your own hidden ductwork to flow some cool air to over the turbo. The scoop hood does that but for sleeper look, you will figure it out. good luck.

is it leaking oil at the heads where they meet the block? thats appearing to be the most common type on the new ones. Not near as bad as the leaking coolant or the compression blowing into the cooling jackets causing bubbles and coolant blowout. if its just oil, and you are using synthetic, maybe just switch to non synthetic it might stop.

money aint an issue i would say buy a factory turbo Baja since they did make that, and then hop it up, put on a non turbo hood, and go for sleeper look. sell yours to fun some of the project.

^ do you have pics?

also could be tire noise try to rotate them front to back see if the problem changes where it seems be from

On any subaru never use a "local auto parts store for a t'stat" only go OEM. some thread on here shows the pics comparing the whimpy flimsy aftermakert one to the genuine oem subaru part. its like apples to bananas.

how long has the knocking occurred? before you replaced the axles did it knock? did it get worse after the 4k mile ago axle job? what brand axles did you put in? they are notoriuos for being bad right out the box unless they come from Subaru. Most us find the parts store ones to knock right out the box and shake and be bad from the day one. "Don't trust any mechanic" if they are not familiar with Subaru.

sorry. and btw i found the motherload of info here: http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/research/reports/fullreports/551.1.pdf 50 pages to source on this, charts, etc, love it. quote from page 37 " On bare pavement, the studded tires had stopping distances 40 percent and 42 percent longer than the Blizzaks and all-season tires, respectively. " and page 39 "For concrete, though, studded tires required longer stopping distances than highway tires. On dry pavement, a vehicle equipped with two studded tires required 11 percent longer distances to stop and 16 percent longer when the concrete was wet. For four studded tires, this difference increased to 16 percent for dry conditions and 32 percent for wet conditions. Though such statistics may not be entirely valid for today’s CP studs, radial tires, and ABS, they still indicate a trend that is likely to be valid: studded tires on wet or dry concrete provide less traction than non-studded tires. This is likely because the studs cannot penetrate the harder roadway surface, which actually lowers the effective coefficient of friction, in much the same way as studded tires lose effectiveness on ice at lower temperatures. " please if someone knows of some more recent study, post it here and continue this thread. I want to know.

also, it appears that noises and knocks are sometimes misdiagnosed, but are real symptoms of Axles that are bad, or even wheel bearings, so first eliminate those items before spending on a trans replacement.

Does anyone else besides me have those "yaktrax" that you put on boots. Have you ever gone into a supermarket with those babies on? Wow, on dry hard surface, pretty much sums up how Studded tires are on dry hard surface. You cant stand up on Yaktrax, and that should tell something about metal spikes. I guess you could put some spiked football cleats on and try to play basketball on a hard surface gymnasium floor. same thing. Make your own decision on this, I just like to put out the way it is. If you live in the high mountains, and drive on unplowed roads, heck yeah studs are most sure the way to go. Otherwise, i suggest listening to some facts.

I am new to the BAJA world too, but from what i see, they are based on the Outbacks 2000-2004 Outbacks to be specific. I would say best to stay with those years. Yeah they continued the Baja for 2 more years past Outback era because they had enough demand of them. they actually hacked some Outback wagons at the factory to make into some Bajas when the supply was low on the lots, I want to learn more but I am not expecting to keep mine, i bought it to flip since i have lost my job.

Really like the clean look of this car. whats the wheel color? is that gold, or a bronze or what. I am gonna go that look on my ABM 94SS

i got my 6disc w/ cassette for 39 shipped http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230553202201&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT#ht_500wt_1103

out all all the Subarus i have owned, all ran when sold except a 1995 legacy l with a rod that blew out the top right side under the intake. the list includes 94 turbo leg wagon 93 turbo leg sedan 4eat 92 turbo leg sedan 5mt 82 Brat GL 83 GL wagon 92 SVX my current ones of 85 Brat, 94SS, 03 Baja all run well and i picked up another 94SS that didnt have keys so i dont know if it runs- yet...

I once bought a 95 Legacy L wagon, with the ej22 in it. I bought it with a pretty noticable nock and proceeded to drive it the 9 miles back home. It blew the engine:piston and rod out the top passenger side right under the intake manifold when i got to within about 4 miles from home. I was out nothing by driving it home other than a blown engine. Otherswise i would have been another 60 bucks tow into that 200 dollar pos. I pulled the blown rod motor, sold the car witha not yet installed 1990 ej22 and made about 500 profit. I have not had good engine experience on any subaru newer than 1994, and have had NO engine problems on 1982-1994.

on totally dry roads, studs are probably the worst way to go. Tires need rubber to grip on dry, not metal spikes. You can read some here http://www.suite101.com/content/should-you-get-studded-snow-tires-for-winter-driving-a317532 They are really only meant for those driving severe winter weather, Mountain passes all the time, and arctic environments. here are some good advice from car talk: basically they are lousy terrible on dry; http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/Archive/2008/December/06.html http://www.cartalk.com/content/googleresults.html?cx=partner-pub-7133054861616181%3Ahi3ycasbap0&cof=FORID%3A10&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=studded+tires&sa=Search&siteurl=www.cartalk.com%2Fct%2Freview%2Fsearchresults.jsp%3Fname%3Dstudded%2Btires%26caller%3D%26city%3D%26state%3D%26keyword%3D%26make%3D------%26model%3D--------%26showMonth%3D--%26showDay%3D--%26showYear%3D--%26showEndMonth%3D--%26showEndDay%3D--%26showEndYear%3D-- brent

worn out from age? well i drove a crx si til 237k miles never had the seats got worn out lol subaru is cheap in seating quality at least compared to mid 1990 honda....

SOA should foot the bil to al these reports, they failed loyal customers on the blown head gaskets and the blown speedometers. no reason this should be so prevalent....soa please step your quality back up to pre 1994 status. call me at 641-528-209 if ypu need some help on engineering i need a job.