bheinen74

good luck nothing easy on this. use micks shortcut is wise. parts car backup will be nice if needed. i ran a prestone brand heater core deep cleaner (they had 2 versions, a quick clean and a deep clean) thru mine and ran it in the car for a week lol longer than they posted to. I have had heat ever since. i did it before temps got to the + 35 mark at night.......cause you mix the chemical with water......dont want water in the block when its -15 temp good luck and report back k

my dogs at my charlie brown tree Merry Christmas to all.

If that was me, I would leave it all stock and alone. Maybe buy a set of new front struts, they are probably weak due to age, it will drive and handle much better with just new struts. I wish i would have left my Brat alone. at the time i thought it would be cool but time has been over with on the lift. you will have many things to have to change otherwise, including radiator hoses, gas lines, EXHAUST, heater hoses etc, once you start messing with stuff, the exhaust will need reangled etc, AC compressor lines will be maxed t stretch, it is just not quite like a lot of the people on here say.. I am not sure on the steering extension, maybe even will need to change clutch cable routing, brake lines, etc.

I think we subaru owners have to chalk up speedo failure as REALLY common on Subarus. So far, I had one go out on a 94 turbo wagon, had one go out on my 92SVX, my current legacy turbo has it acting up, and my brothers 99 outbak had to have the odo replaced due to speedo quit, and my dad's 98 forester was previously replaced too. I see LOTS of threads on this issue, here, on legacycentral, on SVXnet, and outback.org. I think we have to just assume at some point, the speedo may quit on us at any time. Pretty silly subaru cannot figure out a better setup.

can someone tell me the difference in color blue vs black valve covers? all my EA81's : 82Brat, 83Gl wagon, and 85 brat, all had blue valve covers. I sometimes see black ones though...fill me in for some info.

I actually find the 91-94 seats more comfy for long haul drives than when i sit in my brothers 99 outback. The 98 forester seats are good too. Seems like they took some of the padding away in the outback seats. I also dont like the wierd agle of headrests in the 06 series legacy/outback. The 03 Baja seemed pretty good, my 04 outback leather seats in my BRAT are harder than the comfy cloth Baja seats. i prefer my 91CRX Si seats over them all big time. 2nd place is the 94SS

Pretty sure my dads 98 forester is running around with crank pulley from a 93 legacy pulley right now with no problems. -it depends on what the position your pistons were in compared to valves. not sure i quite follow, you can also you idler pulleys from a 91-94 on newer, its the tensioner roller that will not work. IF you are lucky enough like me, a few junkyards runs have found BRAND new timing belts, and all associated tensioners and pulleys on a few, bought them for lets says like 15 bucks a kit lol.

maybe somebody took your car to Mexico hid the stash in the tank and forgot to remove before they sold the car to you? jk, but that is a remote possibility.

It is said over on legacy central, the topmounts are different on the 91 from the 92+ You will need to reuse your topmounts if that is the case.

my BAJA manual says 16.9 gallons. Should be exact same as the Outback Wagon of year 2000-2004.

in my post #5, i wrote "Frames, in general, on subarus will never bend based on curb hits. The engineers built the front lower control arms to bend first, which they do. The rear lower lateral links are designed to bend to save the frame. Depending on your year, you bent something, NOT the frame. Possible the rear lateral links, possible the strut piston, but I HIGHLY DOUBT betting money, you did not bend the frame. " yes can you possibly put the car on jackstands, and take pictures of both suspesion sides, or even crawl under a non jacked up car and take pics. It will help unless you have a local person willing to give you advice. I want to see the metal bars and such to check.

If I was doing that, then i would suggest buy a totalled auction car STI for say 5g, that is "NOT REPAIRABLE" title status, that mean it cannot ever be rebuilt-way cheaper that way at auction. You might get one for 4500 or so. make sure its "verified to start and run" you dont want one hit in front and tossed the Tbelt causing valves to hit those turbo pistons. Then swap everything, struts, brakes, calipers, drivetrain, what left of not being wrecked. Buy one that side-lined a light pole so the inside is toasted, and side is collapsed, but the running gear and stuff is strong still. You might even get cool Sti seats in a deal like this if they arent biohazard'd others thoughts too? Overall, for sure that the best bang for buck, you can sell good parts over to the Nabisco folks and then use what you need. That 5g car, you could sell 3500 in parts, and that will fund your remaining.

Brats 82 and before had chrome ones front and rear. 83 and after Black plastic front, black painted metal rear. ALL your questions can be answered by visitng this link of brochures of the 80's http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/literature/brochures/brochures-80-89.html

hard to say a value if rust thru rot exists on the frame a good possiblity due to where this car was driven that would not make it very valuable. Ido see some rot on the rear quarter, that will become a huge hole once sanded/grinded the rust away. The bad rust is usually under these cars. Definitely, if you have a fully working digi dash that might be worth a little. most of these died long years back on the digi function. only 2wd, not gonna get a whole premium, but someone who wanted a good 30mpg grocery getter would probably pay between 1500 and 2250 for one assuming new tires, new belts, new hoses. That stuff rots after that many years. You could easily put as much into this as its worth.

Good Luck. I seen some pics in this thread that I really honestly dont understand. I would seriously after seeing those pics, consider it a TOTAL LOSS. sometimes a previous owner is so incompatabable of ANY maintenance but i think this takes the cake for worst structural integrity etc. Sure they put a new engine (purple) in it, but the tunnell mods, frame mods, wow that is a death trap mostly only good for parts. Carry a fire extenguisher with those wiring hacks what a total loss. no more to say

Frames, in general, on subarus will never bend based on curb hits. The engineers built the front lower control arms to bend first, which they do. The rear lower lateral links are designed to bend to save the frame. Depending on your year, you bent something, NOT the frame. Possible the rear lateral links, possible the strut piston, but I HIGHLY DOUBT betting money, you did not bend the frame. compare your suspension parts to one you see in a dealer lot, take note of what you have looking bent, and go replace the bent items, then get an alignment. brent related note, A guy over on Nasioc in a 2011 Sti was doing donuts in a snow covered lot (on summer tires) and hit some curbstops and bent stuff all out of wack. I gave him crap cause he can afford a brand new 2011 car, but he couldnt afford snow tires. I told him to sell the car, get a 2008 that he can also afford to buy snow tires and not *************** about wrecking on summer tires...

bingo. they sent the wrong one. did you contact them to ask what they would do to get you the right one

they sent you wrong one. the one in the link shows a cap filler neck. take this up with the seller you got it from.

does the low fuel light still work, thats all you need.

I like this thread. I always recommend buying used, as Shawn does, Snap-On. It is an investment, one can always selll for a premium a used Snap-On. Buy used Snap on for half off, use it, sell it for what you paid for it. I could not afford that, and bought some cheap "Stack-On by Remline" I would never be able to sell it for anything close to what i paid for it (200). If i could have, i would have bought Snap-On. Sears is usually good. Just know it is for you to use and keep, it has no marketable re-sale value after you are done with it. I did get a used Waterloo top box from Craigslist. wish i had the bottom half to it. wish i had money for this today http://desmoines.craigslist.org/tls/2111579401.html

someday....i will venture to tear one down and rebuild. thank you and bookmarked

"coolant reservour cap was off and it was low on coolant" do you mean overflow bottle cap was off? was it flipped up or was it missing. I could see it bubbling pressure and popping it off. That could explain it going low, if it is bubbling out and such. You need to open the hood of car after a drive, with it still running and look for volcano coming out of the overlow... report back your symptom relates more to the 96-99 era, not what we see on the 00+

have fun getting the rear right brake drum off:eek: thats one long trail of rubber, and a decent looking project too.

I do BET itis off on timing. seen it, others have seen it, i buy cars that way when others have had it triple checked etc. the last one i had shipped down had sworn it was not that.. his shop sworn it was not that either.-went thru new ecus, coils, mafs, plugs, ignitors, injectors, i got all the spare with the csr. he gave up on it and i got it for 530 bucks. Sure enuf. set the tining, drove it for a a few years sold it for my 1850. sold or used all the other parts on others.

why you think its tired? I have NEVER seen cylinder wear on a early ej22, EVER. True all the gaskets and rubbers turn brittle, but those are cheap to replace. Put all new seals and gasktets in it, new timing components, water pump, plugs wires etc,and run it another 500k miles. my 2 cents.