bheinen74

timing jumped. re-do the t belt correctly.

better haul a power generator around with you, to either run your battery charger when it goes dead, or to run power for the lights. I say a 10,000 watt generator might do it. the current drain on 16 lights, you will have brighter light with candles. Those lights are gonna be looking like dim flashlights when the batteries are all worn down, even when your battery is not run down, thats too much

wheel bearing. SUBARU issued a recall for the 2005-2006 for wheel bearings. yep wheel bearing.

94turbo legacy, gvwr 4110 pounds. fact. i was wrong before.

The following is stamped on the sides of the rims: J 13x5.0 J DOT 12 02 85 5-Jx13 so they are 13x5 and made in december of 1985 .

the stamping tells the correct size, dont go by your incorrect measuring which is measuring wrong. these are 13" rims 5 inch width thats that stamping check out the subarus of the 80's link up top of this board, and click on the wheels page.

hey if UNI basketball comes back to OKC this year for ncaa tourney there i will be there.....they beat KS last year there lol. UNI is a top team this year again watch. nobody ever realized last year how good they were/are, till they beat top team. they played 10 players deep, they still have over half that same team back. go UNI Panthers. nice BRAT if you have a meet i might come

if you are doing head remova, head gasket job on a newer one, buy a new SNAP-On or MAC socket, dont even try to use a worn out one on head bolts, those are tight tight tight and you need a good quality socket or else let someone with professional tools do this job. only pro grade sockets. ok

the thing and only thing, to look for in this gen era of ej25 is the overflow tank for coolant, right next to radiator. if it is cruddy'd up then there ya go its blowing exhaust gases into it. thats it. also take the car on a 30 minute drive, with AC on, weahter AC is needed or not. Leave the car running after that drive, pull it over, and pop the hood with it still running. flip up the coolant overflow tank lid, look in, and if you see BUBBLEs, then the HG is already blown and pay no more than 1200-1500. If no bubbles its still good. then goes back to if it has already had HG job and what version. bh

about 2 years ago i bought them new, from Jason on our best parts source. i bet they are still available, my gasket was like 8 bucks only. -the loyale, why outsource it, they are still available remember they made BRAT (Brumby to them) til 1993 in AUS and parts are readily available. I also bought a new left tailight lens (lens only) for $12.50 usd 2 years also, when people on ebay and here try to sell for more. go call jason he will get u you parts.

my 94 legacy sport sedan is 4450 weight. they are TANKS, and subaru put the metal where its needed only one air bag driver steering. lets battle a new leg vs old gen leg and see what car wins the demo derby. not a chance the newest model comes out the winner....... your rear struts are DEAD. and the fronts. my first legacy same a legacy weighing that much kills struts front and rear after 80k the car weight is a tank and it kills the struts. replace fronts and rears with KYB gr-2 i find http://www.ajusa.com is cheapest

wtf is the left axle. the one on right is the new style i talked of never seen one on left

i found out today there are 3 different stub types, at least 3 now i have confirmed 1. the clutch type lsd (85-89) unit had stubs that have retainer torx bolts holding the stubs into the lsd 2. the vlsd of the 91 legacy had circlip stubs holding into the vlsd guts 3. The vlsd of the 2001 forester, has stubs that are molded into the axle, part of the axle, that are able to insert in. 4. I have yet to dig into my SVX to see what that VLSD is like.

is it the little 1/4 thick hose for the map sensor assembly, or are you talking the other one? i am pretty familiar with ej22t's or might this just be the larger breather tubes connection where it "t's" behing the alternator, that plastic T fitting (like glass after 100k miles) connects breathers from left and right valve covers, and also is part of the pcv system and if that part fractures your car will run like pooo.

1. I need to take the center guts out of the Forester case, take the 3.9 ring gear off my 944SS, and bolt to the guts, then reinstall in the Legacy SS case, that way ring gear and pinion gear are paired back. -my question will be, do i keep the bearings on the guts of the vlsd chunk, or do i need to swap side retainer bearings. 2. I need to source some 95-99 Legacy, outback, whatever rear axles to make this work right? The Forester vlsd has no stubs, the stubs are part of the axle, and i understand the 95-99 has stub also built into the axle. -my question, what exact model years of those 95-99 should I go look for (the forester axles are like 4.5 hours away one way i aint going back for them, but have lots of legacys in the JY near me close.... -second question to this part: my rear axles in my 94SS are superb condition, I prefer to frankemate the inner cups from a 95-99 to mine so i dont have to remove the honking big axle nut at the end...just reboot with a big hose clamp after the inner cups are swapped, or is there something about the 94SS outer axle that wont mate to the newer style inner with stub? If i have to I can swap the entire axles, but like i said, my current 94SS are top notch boots all good, original green paint like new, etc, etc, and likely better condition than ones i would end up with from the crusty junkyard. just going to need some stubs attached to them for the new vlsd chunk . 3. Think thats about it, this will not happen for a few weeks, i gotta take a lift kit off my BRAT first...... 4. ? Someone off the usmb. near KC just wreck the front of a 93 legacy?, it had one good jdm passenger headlight (now mine), the left was smashed from the wreck, and it had a STi factory exhaust on it and a custom grill in the backseat cracked but very useable with some kitty hair and paint.

got some questions on a VLSD rear diff from a 2001 Forester from an automatic. 1. Whats the ratio? 2. When i removed it, the stubs are actually part of the axles, popped right out, I did not buy the axles, left them ttached to the forester. 3. My plans are either...... a. convert to 3.9 to use in my 94Legacy Sport, but how do i do the stubs? should i have bought the axles from the forester to use the inner cups to make hybrid for use in the Legacy SS or b. probably could let my dad have it to put in his 98 forester if "a" does not go easily. Its probably direct swap to his Forester, thing is he doesnt really need a vlsd, he needs new tire set, and it is my long awaited plan to make my 94SS have a VLSD thanks all.

hope you used search function on here about thermostats, it says to use only OEM from Subaru thermostat. Theres pics here of a subaru one vs the discount store ones.

the pic it looks way to small to be subwoofer. i say its a amplifier controller, maybe to the stock headunit? what stereo do you have, the McIntosh system has something like this.

sounds like the subwoofer with built in amp. high cut = the crossover freqency adjustment and gain = the output wattage control adjustment

8 piston BRAT ftw. nice any pics under the bonnet and build details.

unplugged the Legacy SS power antenna at half extension (winter prep so it doesn't ice and destroy the teeth like they always do). Advise all owners with power antennas to do the same before first ice storm....

buy a fire extinguisher if you add that many lights, as fire is surely to result.

tow hooks were not sawed off, but placed tallr height than road surface, back then this if a GREAT topic, same similar to ABS. both are inferior in the first years.....NO RECALLS but my 91-94 ABS needs to be recalled...but no... live and let live, or me, pull the system out. So i can stop at my stopsign on new snow tires. cause the old ABS on new tires sucks and wont stop. back to topic...........subaru need to watch these reports.

tensioner assembly compressed and held that way with cotter pin? do you have the bottom idler removed. then place belt on the marks then thread in the idler then release tensioner. ej22 is the easiest of them all. you can get it. oh, dont compress the tensioner quickly, you need take it VERY VERY VERY SLOW. use a shope vise a little at a time. takes about 30 minutes. if you go too fast it ruins it.