bheinen74

good fix. I bet with a paintjob you could bring 6-8g on ebay if you were to sell it. New paint will hide any flaws. that is a good pic of the dog looking back at it, almost as if the dog is saying it likes it and wants to protect it, or just go for a ride in the back.

this is fitting, for it sounds like popcorn you say. maybe someone dumped popcorn in the intake. I am not much help but will keep checking in you need to get it going.. bad valve perhaps.

timing? loose spark plug bad cylinder?

Wow, that looks good. Very good survivor wish i had it.

Have you thought of just going to a pick n pull and getting some bolts off another Subaru? that is what i would do.

you can probably just call it bad and throw it out get another one. You can take it out, and try to prime it, but i bet it won't hold and will get soft again. To prime- get a small cup of oil, and a thumbtack. You hold it under oil, while pushing the thumbtack in the bleed hole, then press and release bleed it. You will see air come out, and it will get firm again, but i bet it is shot.

with the Brat down, and no wagon, I gotta find a way to get this down to the car wash to power wash the horse poop road grime off before I can tear into it. I spent the other day scraping it with a putty knife.

Thank you very much Mick. Now i can see. appreciate you taking the time to pull that up and scan it, and then post to the thread here. I probably would have busted the front piece trying to pull it out, now I can see how it locks in to the case. I like how the first pic shows it broken. That would have been me.

I think more pics would benefit showing the placement

the ej22t closed deck block would be the best one for this type of stuff. bore to a 2.35 or so. boost to 30psi get a stronger gearset to handle it grin.

oh its EA82.

The Legacy line since 1992 style is pretty solid, especially the Japan made stuff. The outback line from 99 up seems good. The impreza stuff until 2002 was rust prone, thinner lighter metals. The SVX was a really high quality metal so not much rusting, same goes for the turbo legacy. There is a night and day difference in the steel quality of the legacy, outback etc lineup vs the older GL /Loyale stuff.

O reillys is the only place in Iowa that can get the right parts for my older ones...... they seem to have about the same dbase as rockauto, and prices similar. get the part next day.

94sport sedan 5mt, running at 10psi, stock otherwise. 23.5mpg 85 Brat GL weber, about 25mpg, currently taking back to stockish carb to see if i can net near 30 85 hatchback Gl ea81, stock about 29mpg and, a 91 CRX Si gets about 38.5 and my civic Si hatch about the same, maybe 39mpg on longer trips.

yes i see the slot. a seal can be carefully driven there, and some sealer smeared around the outer edge if it gouged.

well, can't it be pulled out from the front, slide over the shaft, then slide a new one on and drive it home, all from the front?

am i wrong in thinking the red is where the seal is located?

right now, once i see more pics, i think all seals can be replaced without opening it up. I know you say it can't on the front, but i believe it can. Just like the side seals. then i wouldn't need to unscrew the diff side retainers either. i need a pic of the front seal where it goes. it is more a oil seal than o ring if my book is right. I like facts, but i have proven some people wrong on here like replacing speedo drive and driven gears on a auto 4eat when it is still in the car

my definition of clear = zero rub no matter what. maybe my mistake is taking for other people definition of what they mean by clear.

do you have a link for more pictures? do you have shifter seal part number? also, by the way today i unscrewed the side retainer of my spare junk trans, and the side axle seal can be replaced without even taking the side retainer off. It can be installed from front or rear, i did some trial runs with an old seal. No need to even unthread the retainer. just pop a few screws in the old seal, pry out, drive new seal in. There is no lip on the front of the retainer cap. this is on the 4spd D/R I would like to see a pic of where the front seal fits on this. thanks

the armrest console has a hump for where the dual range lever would move. The carpet looks like for a ea81 hatchback. I would give you 27 shipped on the armrest console.

They will move the criminal along to another car that doesn't have the club or the brake lock device. But, if someone were to defeat it, it wouldnt take long. But if you are smart and park your car in E. St. Louis or S. Chicago, there won't be a car worth coming back to, they will take it all and you would have a shell. I would say pulling the coil connector, or coil plug off on an older car. If you have a newer one, pull the igniter connector, ignition fuse, etc. The more fuse and connectors you pull,the less likely the scum will figure out how to get it started. If you have to park overnight in E St Louis or S. Chicago, you will not have a driveable car to come back to

1-5. "The SUBARU 1600 cc and 1800cc engines are designed to get satisfactory engine performane and to keep clean exhaust gas by using gasoline no less than 90 octane." :-p

this pic is borrowed from Idasho. it sure looks like the front seal can be popped out and replaced via the front cover without splitting the case. and i see the seal for the shifter select is accessed too from the back outside.

I was playing around getting the spare one ready to go. Turns out the speedo is not functioning in it. So, back to my other plan. Reseal up the original one and while i am in there, replace anything that looks worn, possibly using the other spare as parts if i cant get new stuff. . this may take a while. I gotta clean off the old one, it is caked from the stuff on the road Dennis took you me and Mick on, the horse poop road. I have contacted Idasho to see if he can provide a parts list for when he split his open. Guess if I gotta use my Subaru bucks up, this will be the purpose. grr...