bheinen74

your tach read to 8grand? your driving it without a steeering wheel is the clock from a gen1?

great info. Those are pretty nice cars. Hopefully someone else besides me will chime in on here. Sounds like you did the research. That kind of service record is ideal. Will they let you take it for a nice long highway cruise for about an hour, so you can check out the temp gauge etc, and what the overflow bottle is doing after the long test drive....before signing anything. Pretty sure this sounds like a good running car though.

did mr joe blo shop replace the HG in 2008? or did someone who knew what they were doing, and used OEM Subaru gaskets? thats a biggie. let us know what the answer to that is. that will be something to possibly negotiate on unless you know its done at a subaru dealer, using the updated gaskets. just cause the HG have been done, does not mean they did it to last. a crappy HG job will d the same.

that early ej22 engine (89-94) is like a tank. It should be good for another 300k. I cannot say that about the newer ones. Do NOT change oil weight from what you use, and what the recommended manual says. thicker oils will not get to where they need to be, will not lubricate the journals and passeways as well, it is a myth. Keep with what you have been using. Especially in the winter, thicker oil is like death for a engine. Some people on here are giving bad advice.

good for you. maybe i will have my exhaust manifold repaired by mid august.

different splines right? how about redrilling the legacy hubs so you can relocate the lug studs to the SVX/Sti05+/Tribeca pattern of wheel lug.

oh no's the muffler looks ?somewhat? right, wonder what car they sent you the intermediates for.

possible pinhole in the bottom hose of radiator, on the lower driver side....? just a thought. or water pump leak? report back.

lots of things run the fan. if you hook the two wire leads as said, and fan turns on and runs, then you know its a sensor or relay or fuse There is a thermoswitch on your block there s a temp sensor on your radiator. then you have the relays usually the thermoswitch goes haywire first, or you have fuses blown. check under the hood in fusebox, and check in compartment block of fuses. there may be 2 fuses for the fans

I thought maybe the spare shoebox of new cv boots for 1991-1994 Legacy Sport Sedan and Touring wagons, would be the same on the front inner boots as a 1998 Forester. I thought wrong. Apparently the shafts are thicker in the Forester. Still might be able to make the boots stretch enough though, will report back. anyone else have a parts chart? new topic not discussed much eh?

Legacy Ti Outdoor Wagon Legacy L All-Wheel-Drive with value Option Group #2 plus: wheel covers adjustable air suspension, body color front grill, mud flaps, woven cloth interior (instead of plush), under passenger seat storage tray, rubber cargo mat, rear cargo net luggage rack with Bike attachement, rear stabilzer bar, engine skidplate Yellow "Subaru" lettering with pine trees exterior graphics this one is nicely optioned.....

if you search kbb for price, and do a http://www.craigslook.com search which shows you peoples selling prices, specs, you will see what kind of price they go for. not 7000 for what i keep track of. say like 4500 is a better range to look for

thats crazy.

much to learn in this thread. I am fairly sure this has and will continue to happen. keep us up to date, or we will have to send a guido down to deal with this guy...hope he treats you right.

94 has plastics in the cargo, much sturdier 95 has cardboard in the cargo much flimsy like a cerereal box with felt over it. HVAC controls on the 94 are better laid out. Auto seatbelts, I like them, can never get a ticket if you use them the way they were designed.

Dont go with me. I was out messing around with a Jeep trying to hang with hits 35's built in Air compressors, winch, loaded, i hit a rock and busted my exhaust header right near the flange where it bolts to the passenger head.

update. Last night, installed new radiator. after charging battery up, the old terminals had been corroded. ran into a few things. The accident had bent both fan shrouds, but they have been straightened. Tested both fans before installing the radiator, they both turned on fine via direct connect to battery. the guy we got this from had pulled out the old radiator, and he did not know how to disconnect the fan connector, he had pulled the wiring out of the sockets on one harness plug. Filled radiator with rain-water to get a good flush since the overflow was all gunky when we got this (has been cleaned now) We guessed at how the 2 wires went for the fan connector. Startup was smooth, no strange noises, no piston slap, no rod knock. Brought vehicle up to temp on 4 jackstands, also testing AWD, yes all four wheels turn when in gear, so that seems fine. While running vehicle up to temp, checked out everything. Both rear license lights were burned out, fixed. ABS light was on, we had patched wires that the accident broke. I find ABS fuse, its blown. Turned off car, repalced fuse, restarted, ABS light out. Driver rear rotor is worn, caliper sticking, add new rotor to list. bearings are good. Once the fans kicked on, noticed what we were checking for. One side fan turned correctly, other side was opposite, so that has been corrected..we were kinda guessing they might not be right. All power options work, except the rear wiper, motor is froze still after soaking with pb blaster. radio has a clock. Up above on the headliner is another clcok, but that one does not work or show anything.????? power mirrors both work heated seats both work. front wipers work front and rear squirters work. all 6 factory speakers work Ran car with water for about 15 minutes. turned off. climbed under to look at heads-to-block. Looks good, dont think the HG's are leaking. Right side valve cover grommits leaking, possibly valve cover gasket. this should be a good one. headed to KC fingers crossed they still have the forester at u-pick-it. need headlight and fender and hood, bumper cover, and AC condensor, and a list of miscellaneous Subaru stuff. frame rail is close to where it needs to be based n a wooden template from the drivers side in mirror image. more to come. Tonight, fill with coolant, distilled water, and 1/2 bottle of Holtz. Should be on the road soon. Need to take on hour long interstate cruising to see how the temp guage is going...../HG check . Oh, and while it was running hooked in the OBDII code checker, guess what, no codes stored, no codes present. yippee.

i have seen aftermarket stereo installers use the hot from the lighter for the switched power accessory lead. Which, if you have anything connectd to it that contains a rechargeable battery, will reverse feed and thus voila. Also, just reading the title of your thread, "electrical and 333,333 miles" i would guess your alternator is about done for if it hasnt been changed.

i would also just reuse the belt to see if you get it to run. Dont spend money on a new belt unless you know its going to run. Run it til it breaks, carry a spare belt with you and pop it on and away you go. Timing belts on these are not a necessary repair in my book, if it break, no damage. I have never removed the fans or the radiator when setting the timing belt on. Its kinda tight fit between the fan shroud sharp metal, but removal is not necessary. If it did jump timing, then you need a NEW TENSIONER it has done something to show it may be failing.....or else the timinig jump was just a improper install to begin with. If you throw a new belt on, and dont replace the tensioner, it may just jump again.... Great design on the early Ej22, are you reading this Subaru? sure cannot say that about the newer interference stuff, but to each his own.

this will not work on 86+87 BRATS fyi for those with those years. only 1985 back to 78

some of the ej22t has a 5 quart oil pan, baffled differently than the NA ej22 which has about 4.5qt pan.

radiator arrives tomorrow. upper fender frame rail is now about an inch from where its supposed to be. 5 wires were cut/pinched/broken from the mangle of sheetmetal. those wires are patched up. Will know more about the health of this once the radiator is in. Bumper has been patched so it is useable. keeping fingers crossed. My brother is going to get this, then his 99 Outback will go to dad for a winter beater, i think. probably going to KC pick n pull this weekend to try and get fender/hood/ whatever else. Need them both to finalize the beating on the upper rail into location.

maybe one of the sensor ends has some metals/debris built up over it. if you pull the brake disc off you will see. Or easier yet, blow some compressed air back behind there and it may clean it enough.

looks right. the thin sleeves have slid though. push the sleeve out, they tap with a light hammer. both sleeves should stick out some at the back of the alternator, your sleeves are pushed to the front too much the way i see it. I had an alternator that fit too tightly, opposite of yours. also, you are missing the 2nd belt. The alternator has its own belt, not the AC belt.

my bumper is still good except the cover. I even have the foglites still good. the upper radiator support yes need. not the lower. But i need the area of that where it hooks to the tower , where the ABS wiring goes thru etc......hold off till i report back.