bheinen74

+1 I have encountered 4 out of every 5 leg wagons in the junkyards that the handle is completely rusted off, so all you see is the little release cable end.......lots of broken out rear glass from people trying to get into the back to get the tailights off the cars......... This is a problem i would say doesnt affect west coasters too often

this thread is quite twisted, and so is your condensor

knock sensor is general normal maintenance item on a ej22 once you have 100k miles on it. I have never seen one go past the 135k mark without going bad, EVER. when they die, you get the sputter....thats easy fix. replace knock sensor with a NEW one (not a junkyard one remember they all go bad), then reset the ecu overnight.

there are 3 or 4 access holes in the crossmember, use correct tools, extension will fit thru the holes straight to the bolt head. undoing the motor mount studs, and ALSO the DOGBONE needs undone then you can sfaely get the height you need off the crossmember. Watch out for hoses, wires pulling, radiator hose flex etc when raising it up.

ah, a thread that no person in the NW can really truly relate to. John, you have the right idea. Try to make it look decent another 7 years. Spend some of your labor yourself, grind out what you can, use rust converter, bondo filler, paint to make look nice. Holds up a few years, then go at it again. You can keep it looking okay for the 7 or so years until it best to just give up and get something else. You have the right idea...thats waht my family does, and when its time to move on, sell it dirt cheap and find something solid to begin the process over. the way the economy is, buying a new car is not possible for most of us. Living with rust is the norm, its what we can afford. When you start parking on peoples driveways, and it rains and debris of flakey rust falls off just from rain and leaves rust on your friends driveways, then its time to move on.

post the pics..... all subarus in iowa will have rust when they are 11 years old, if winter driven. Did you tell the shop you could go out west and buy a rustfree one for less than they will charge to get yours fixed....:-\ (3500 a side.....yikes)

Nothing takes off POR-15 on a thermal sweatshirt and jeans. trust me.

wow some mechanics really gouge people these days. better yet, turn the mechanic in to BBB good job on handling this yourself.

Firsts and foremost, have the mechanice MAKE 100% darn certain he buys the headgaskets from Subaru. No parts store gaskets....He has to use genuine oem new style headgaskets that come from the Subaru dealer. That is a must. mkay. this is one important deal on the particular engine you have, any ej25 this applies to. He cannot just get by with a felpro, or no name brand......this is very very important

99 models have a known bug that only applies to that year instrument cluster speed. Yours is most likely about to fail. It did not affect any other years besides 99, so when you search the junkyards for replacements get one from a 97 or 98, for sure stay away from yr 99 instrument cluster, as it is a feature.

yes por15 in my eye around the halloween time, people thought i was turning goth. that stuff covered my eyes, fingernails, arms etc (covered me for 3 weeks til i scraped skin off) , i was goth from it... but yea,,,,,,I have a sweatshirt i wore when applying por-15, that sweatshirt is caked in it, washed the sweatshirts about 50 times in hot with bleach since, still there. never sweathshirt be be same EVER. now, my 85 brat, has por-15 pealing from the side wells, i didnt use the prep products. It peals on fresh, no rusted oem original paint 25 years old........ i can peel place like as if peeling sunburn peel.

One possible and most likely source of the leak is in the o-ring where the line connects to the rack. It likes to leaks there, then drips down on the rack and makes a big mess on everything below

hello. what yr, model, trim auto - manual did you get of the Legacy.

wow thread of the dead. We used to have some of those peskie lugnut knomes around here loosening them up on a few neighbors rides....in the dead of the night they caught the bandit and he then got sent off. amazingly, the arson rates went down when they were sent off. bad people i dont care for.

thats what i did.

ecm rarely go bad, so i would say with confidence that not it. timing belt(s) on the marks? thats FIRST place to check....

verify that they fit over vented rotors please, then report back. I am the one here who thinks rockauto does not know there are vented rotors on these, they are wrong. please update me.

Mcbrat, didnt you just order some from here, again, and got non-vented calipers, when you needed the vented style......? maybe rockauto doesnt have the ones for 83.5+ -87

I you build it and do a professional job, maybe Subaru will hire you on to do what their own engineers fail to do....

http://www.subaru.eu/index.php/en/nurburgingchallenge Subaru Europe today uploaded footage of an hitherto secret R&D project carried out at the Nürburgring's circuit on 16th April 2010. The project consisted of an attempt to beat the latest best lap time recorded in 2004 on the Nordschleife with a test version of the new 2011MY WRX STI 4-door (sedan), the model unveiled on April 1st at New York motor show as "The Fastest WRX STI Ever". Four-time World Rally Champion and long-time Subaru supporter Tommi Mäkinen drove the test car. The project team triumphed as the new WRX STI test car posted a lap time of 7'55'00, an impressive 4 seconds quicker than the latest best lap time recorded in 2004, and the fastest time ever realized with a Subaru at the Nürburgring since the first developments tests started in 1992. Major enhancements to the vehicle centered on improved overall dynamics - on chassis and suspension in particular. (see test car specifications) FHI's active development of environmentally conscious technologies has not been at the expense of its customers' expectations. Subaru will keep on engineering cars that provide total driving control, sheer excitement and all-round safety at any speed, in all weather and on any road conditions through the unique combination of Boxer engines and all-wheel-drive systems.

from 1989 some cool stuff out on youtube. shows them loading and unloading them on the plane. Maybe some of the guys who built our SS's, etc wonder if the wheel discs are still around somewhere, would love to have some of them its a 4 part series....enjoy i dont know japanese on part 3 of 4 about minute 8:)9 you will see the car puked its coolant out....a sign of things....

After some thinking, I should point a weak point in the auto, especially after welding the rear clutchpaks, is going to be the flexplate, which is already weak to begin with. More recently Subaru has updated to a thicker flexplate on some applications. I myself, have cracked, then broken off a flexplate completely just with normal driving, in a turbo's ej22t. I may or may not have current crack on the one in my SVX. Having mentioned this, a must would be to go to the newer beefier flexplate before you find out how weak it is. Should be a nice low gear though for crawling i would think, those 4eats are pretty stout, and not something to just carry around, they have some beef in them. I dont think the way to go is thru the duty C solenoid, those things are not manufactured to be on 100% of the time, they will burn out after solid use, so welding would the most effective approach, i am sure it can be done i have been torn into the tailshafts a few times...seems to be possibles Also, maybe just add a few more clutch rings to the clutch pack, bring it out of spec so it locks wihtout any added pressure in the transfer seal. that would almost be the same as welding it. The FSM shows how to take them apart, and there is room for at least a few more spacers, and friction disks in there the what the factory put in, tighten that sucker up some....

your pics arent working for me. way back, my dads old 76 audi 100ls broke a motor mount when exiting a lumber yard, where the road dips, and it went full open throttle across the road by the time he switched off the key. park the car, and determine what had happened....scratch head, but yeah motor mount...so walk back to the lumber yard and buy some chain (think dog chain tie out stuff) and a few nuts and bolts. go back to car, use jack to jack up the motor from where it was hanging, and put a bolt thru end of chain and another bolt to the shock mount area.....drove it home 65 miles. thats just one i had to share. ive got many, could go on and on. another was the time when i was about 4 years old, and a song came on the AM radio in the '58 chev. I was rapping out to it, beating my hands on the metal dash up front like i was playing the drums. the wire inside the glovebox for the light somehow was routed where i pinched it and it shorted out, causing the whole car to smoke and fuse blew.....somehow that wire is tied into the circuit, anyhow, my dad walked out into the nearby pasture, found some old bailing wire, and somehow hotwired the car with bailing wire to stay running to drive back home. another time......ah shucks somebody else. Thanks pics now work...edit.

great job and glad you used oem. oem lasts 10 years or so. autoparts will last 1 year in the rust belt. not a job i wanna spend money on every year, i am not kidding a cheap exhaust is swiss cheese in the part of US here.

wow, never seen a gas tank in the manner like that.... thats a lot of work. hats off to your determination. i've come across new replacement tanks on ebay...pretty cheap, never used one of them -they could be junk for all i know