bheinen74

the first gen legacy haynes and chiltons incorrectly translated the torque to tighten the crank bolts. many mechanics go by the incorrect numbers in the books. Some mechanics use older books even for newer subarus, since they are lego. The chiltons/hayens books say something like 76foot pounds. The REAL FSM shows the correct torque, i am not near my book but i want to say its 119-126ft. lbs.... I always go the higher of the 2 in this job. Wanted to add to this thread to help others and keep this from happening again.

^ that pic, sure would cause the timing issue you were having. thats sucks to have a chunk out the cam, wonder how that occurred... was i right in it was timing? well, you had it set right i know, but your running issue sounded dead on. repair and be careful with the boost knob.

did you check all connectors twice checked, ie maf sensor.

thats all clear now thanks what did you do with the boat anchor? did you bury it using the kubota i guess bolting the flexplate to the engine would seize it up if you wanted to do that. alright, done on this thread. glad you save a torque converter.

I stick to 6 pointers......its my secret and i am sticking to it anyhow, did you fix your socket yet. How was the flexplate holding the block together? It is only attached to the crank, not the block.

thats a good warranty. please report back in 50k miles to tell us how it goes.

If you wash engine you ask for this sort of trouble. You can search how many people have killed, oh, alternators, knock sensors, coils, igniters, I am tired of typing but search and you will find.

thats a 4"/4" lift, with 205/75/R15 tires (27.5" tall) and they still required trimming, some bashing, and they still rub even after trimming some.

probably the new radiator was not "burped" correctly.......lol easy fix. these rarely actually have a headgasket problem. Check the simple things first. Are both fans plugged into the connectors. Properly Burp it, have the Heat on MAX when burping. top the fluid after burping.

another reason to not like the ej25. long live 89-94 ej22, and 95 ej22 that really suks, and it was a newer belt with miles.what a crappy thing to have happen someday subaru will go non-interference.

fully closed deck turbo blocks DO have the crosshatching.....maybe you just didnt check in the right place. #### ##### ##### ##### #####

up to 94 there was a 8mm nut to adjust with, a metal nut. From what i have seen, in 95 when subaru cut there costs, the adjuster is a nylon thingamabob that almost 99.9% of the time cracks and breaks, so you are forced to vise grip spin the adjustment rod thats left. what a pain, spray some pb blaster on the threads before you even try to turn them. fyi, the headlights on the 95-99 really are not of great quality, even when adjusted right, with new bulbs, and polished/de-yellowed. Subaru needs to spend some time in the lighting department someday....

a few ways are mentioned, crosshatching around where the heads attach, and the bellhousing. Also, a turbo block, will have extra coolant lines coming off the water pump which the coolant goes to the turbo. The heads will also have plumbing. And, if its a 1991 turbo block, it will have a built in oil cooler where the oil filter spins on, 92-94 did not have the oil cooler. The block stamp is just ej22, so the stamp alone is no way to tell. Another way is look at the plastic t-belt covers. on the passenger side of the crank pulley, it will say "turbo" .injectors are pink on a ej22t intake mani.

loosen up the nut that hold ths passenger arm in place. Then manually pull the driver side down into bottom park. Then tighten up the nut on the passenger arm....again, with it in park spot. If that is not correct, try again until you get it to stop in the right spot. easy.

'ben. I know a guy 8 miles from me trying to sell a 1998 black limited outback, he's asking 700 and i turned it down. Has a 5 speed new clutch new tires, leather. Needs headgaskets. asking 700 is reasonable.....still i didn think it was worth it..

"I am now on my 4th set of brakes on this car, i think i will keep these for a while..." wow....I dont know what to say. guess you like brakes.... I have owned over 35 different cars, and only one time i had to change a caliper, that was when the slide pin rusted and caused a problem... now, brake pads, i dont seem to change them much either....

because they have gone backwards, dont ask, just accept.....sorry i can be of no further assistance.

yeah that is stupid looking messed up not right at any way i look. sorry. do love those meats though, great tire from what i have read. fix the rear drop and it will be much better to me. love the bumpers too.

i always thought for the OBS models, last year for ej22 was 99. preferred engine is the ej22 on this model, or you are in for expensive headaches, ie, repairs to the failed ej25. My best advice, stick to the ej22 in the obs. walk, heck, run away from the ej25 and dont look back. oops read that you have got it. Hey, post some pics maybe i will change my mind, changing plugs should be easy.

i do like Subrdav

they wont always come loose. i had one i could have given to u to play with and such. but it, along with entire subframe, was sent to scrapyard as core. Just like pinch bolts in the front knuckle, and front axles, being in a rust belt sometimes the pinch bolts break no matter what, and if you dont agree, i have a front hub, with seized axle in it, wont come out, you can have it and mess around with it.....the axle is still good, just needs an outer boot.....but it is physically rust welded to the hub splines.

the ONLY supplier to get HG's from is Subaru, directly. you can search this.

4400 dollars for an engine with 80k on it going into a old dinosaur that is what, 14 years old now, a 97 has a manufacturer date of 96......thats insane.

I have had a handful of 92-94 turbo leg sedan and turbo wagon. Have been my best bang for the buck, and they are pretty super reliable, and are seemingly near the performance of the newest performance Subarus, with just a few bucks in mods (exhaust, intake, intercooler, turbo updgrade, etc) They are seemingly one of the more durable Subaru's you can get. They made them for rally, they did the endurance record with them, etc. They can be beat on, pushed towards the limits, and really they will not let you down. Normal maintenance is a must. And, of course, the premium gas requirement. and did I mention, they can be had in nice shape for 2500-3500. Lesser shapes ones for 1500 beat up ones for 900 and turbo wagons with bad trans, for about 400

This thread is full of lots of Awesomeness of Subarus, and details.