bheinen74

I will be in Denver soon. anybody wanna meet up?

I also have never been an aftermarket fan. All I can say, is if you plan to keep the car for 2years or less, you would be okay. If you plan to keep it more than 2 years, I would HIGHLY recommmend if you choose to go aftermarktet, you buy like 2 extra spare wheels and keep them tucked away in boxes on a shelf. If you EVER get a flat tire ever, the chance of ruinining a rim is about 50/50 due to a tire flat/blowout. Even a small accident can ruin a rim in a heartbeat. Or the goofy old lady pulls out and instead of smashing her you aim for a curb.... If you don't have a spare laying around, you will NEVER be able to find a replacement wheel to match the other 3 good ones. Aftermarket wheel manufactureres make a certain amount of wheels, sell them all, and if they have any left after a year run, they melt them down into the next new style. If you don't believe me, then ask the wheel sales stores to order in a older wheel they "used" to carry. You will be out of luck. just some good advice to buy 2 extras. I have bought a fair share of cars, and the one time the seller tired to sell me a car with some crappy aftermarket wheels, I said I would not buy it with those wheels. They were some 1g worth of rims I agreed if he took them off and put on Some WRX or something oem, I would buy it. Now, I can easily find as many spares as needed. And, OEM is a stronger wheel to begin with, not soft flimsy metal that aftermarket is. There are some pricey aftermarket that are strong from BBS, otherwise, nope. If you have the means and ways to do it, then get them, and get a few extras will be no extra cost really. If you never need them, someone would surely end up needing them in 10 years good luck. Oh, and those tiny tiny spokes mean the wheel is flimsy like you wouldnt believe. Also, they are hard to keep clean, and as mentioned, wheels protect your rotors and brake calipers from road debris, the more open a wheel you choose, the more risk of having debris take a life out of your brake components-at least it sure does here in the salt/rust belt. Anything at all to protect from the salt splash, slush spray saves brake work components. Big huge work trucks and open spoke wheels are bad bad bad. But the full wheel covered trucks, not many brake issues. The easy way to replace a aftermarket wheel when they cannot be purchased new anylonger, is to steal them, thats the way it goes. You will also increase risk of wheel theft once those wheels are several years old, as others who had them find they need to get replacements, the black market effect takes off and they will just steal one to get one. If i didnt scare ya yet, good. I have been told i have paranoia.....(spelling) but its because i have seen and heard stories of South Chicago.....lol........it is bad there, and east St Louis stories. If you ever drive thru south side Chicago in the dark alone at night, with your car with those fancy aftermarket wheels, someone may kill you for them.....

Glad it went to a good home, your bid won by a dollar over me. I didn't even really want it, its just it sold way TOO cheap for what it is......that was the best BRAT for under 4grand for a long time. If i would have got it, I would have flipped it.....so very glad it went to someone who wanted it, you can has twins now. Very nice indeed.

Better than when it looks lumpy, chunky, and green, thats what it does when you use the "scotty's cocktail".

ethanol is bad for older type engines. The new engines in current cars are engineered to tolerate it. But, it is really bad for most cars. It is proven it kill fuel injectors as well, and ethanol actually gives you about 5%-8% less mpg's on average tests. The quickest way to kill your lawnmower engine, snowblower engine, or any other small motor is to put ethanol in it. Instead of an engine lasting 20 years, it cuts the life to about 5. that is the truth. And it will kill your car engine eventually too. Corn ethanol is BAD. to produce a gallon of Ethanol requires 5 gallons of water. Our drinking water supply is the Aquifier in the ground. Ethanol will eventually use up all our water supply here, and then what. I really detest people who push ethanol. You guys that dont live where corn is the main crop just wont ever understand how bad it is.sorry, this is not the thread to discuss this, i just wanted to Agree with McBrat on his daily driver, getting 26.x mpg is because he is using regualr fuel. If he used ethanol, his BRAT would probably go down to about 22mpg and its engine life would be less.

you can take apart your speedo cluster, and repaint the "corrected for tire size" speeds on the face, put back together. like if you speedo shows 22 your are moving 25 if it shows 30 you are moving 35 if it shows 48 you are moving 55 if it shows 65 you are moving 75 etc.etc etc depending on your tire. theres a nifty calculator you can search for % off reading .

taco'd control arm so it sounds. what year model vehicle are you talking of. they build them so they bend, instead of bending your frame. I like how they prevent frame damage.

good. lots of lerning in this thred. If you want to be certain the tires have not been compromised, contact the manufacturer of your tires explaining this, providing exact tire size and model, style, mold #, they can confirm max psi on the tire without causing harm

I would be more worried she hit a pothole with 60psi in them, and maybe caused the rim to get tweaked. Air down to normal recommended psi, and pay attentin to any shimmy/shakes when driving. Most likely you will not find any issue. Bet the car road like a train/rollercoaster/skateboard over bumps

common knowledge. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rock-chips-135565.html?t=135565&highlight=paint+chipped http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/61-general-discussions/13661-chipped-front-end.html http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1945619&highlight=chipped+paint a lot of other manufacturers have problems too, just it seems our paint is either not hardened enough, or could be too hard, easier to chip. My last link is very much straight how it is.

dont buy gas at the breadbox. had to change the filters they got a bad batch of gas. make the breadbox pay for your service. once a gas station here messsed up and had kerosine in their tank, not gas. They ended up footing the bill for repairs, tok about 20 customers to fill up before they shut off the pumps......

those are a pain in the butt to remove. the tilt wheel wires make it hard to do. good luck. It took me a long time to get the one out of my parts BRAT and putting one back in is probably even worse. this is not an easy task.

well you guys/gals should make the weekend visit.

like said, power steering can be added to any car. If you want it to work, you need the entire front rack, crossmember, as the racks are different from non-ps to the PS model. If you have the rack and all parts, go for it. BTW good luck

theres a hidden nut one on each fender, the bumper has a stud pointing thru the fender right under the turn/corner lamp. Its hard to see, and you need a long extension with 10mm (or possibly 8mm) to get to it, from behind the wheel splash shield.

exactly do not take them apart. In tiny warning letters, printed on the retractors "do not take apart" That was just beggin me to do so. Once apart, they are goners...Theres a coil spring flat steel dealey in there, and well, like is printed, they are not to be taken apart, EVER. Puddling on the floor, is much better than not having any at all. Buy some junkyard replacements install them, then if you are ballsy enuf, take them apart and report back how the belt Win and you Lose. Someone else on here did the same....again, FAIL.

sounds like if you put the screwdriver tip in the top of the transmission case where the front speed cable goes, and the screwdriver turned freely, then that sounds like the speedo drive/driven gear inside the transmission is burned up, its plastic, and over time, it degrades and melts up. I have had this in one of my 4eat turbo Legs. I did fix it, without removing the trans from the car. If you have 4 good jackstands or a car lift, get the car up off the ground, and repeat your screwdriver tip into the trans with the car in drive. It should spin your screwdriver slowly. On mine, it would spin about half a turn, then free wheel, you could feel it stripping/slipping. Then if you twisted the screwdriver, it again would spin half a turn, then strip. I had a portion of the drive gear stripped, again due to heat over time. Parts alone can be purchased from the dealer. You need the drive gear, and the driven gear. And you need new oring seal for when you pull the sucker apart. You also have to be very careful on the backlash. Again, I did this on my former car, and it never had issues after. Until you fix this, you will be in limp mode, the ecu throws the car in limp mode to "save" your components when it detects a speedo failure. Before you fix, please take a reading on wiggle movement on both sides of the axle outputs. The fix is to remove the passenger front axle, count the number of turns out the bearing cap retainer is, you do this by turning it in kinda like you would a carb needle mixture screw. then you turn it out and remove the cap assembly. There is a fragile oring seal, and you need to get a new one before you put it back together. Pull out the bearing assembly off the diff, you can then get to the speedo drive gear, as well as the driven gear. The drive gear just slips over the diff, the driven gear has a c-clip and a washer holding it there. its kinda a pain to get the smaller drive gear without dropping it into the trans case, and gear oil. When you put it back together, the backlash SHOULD be set by a professional, but as long as you havent messed around with the other side, the rule of reinstalling by counting turns out applies. I do not recommend this repair if you have never worked with setting backlash, or if you dont know what backlash is. It is not a repair for the normal do it yerselfer. You can mess things up, but a pro can do it for you, and the trans can stay in the car to do it. Mine is still going 40k after i did the repair. BH

A bunch of rusted Subarus from this part of the country is nothing much to brag about. At least we have lifted Subarus here.

it can probably fixed with a new .90 cent o-ring at the hose to rack fitting, where they seem to always leak. I had to re O-ring about 3 of mine, and that has always stopped the leaks. Do not put in brake fluid.

this sounds fun...

toe?

if they are too low, shim the bottoms out with some washers behind the buckets.

I saw a 96 VW for sale yesterday needing a trans. asking 600 for it. Looked mint. Wondered myself how much a trans goes for. Now I see its a common problem spot... good luck twitch,

Your alternator voltage regulator has failed. Your battery is measuring max, 14v, it cannot really get a higher charge. Alternator is putting out 18v, it is cooking your battery, and all other electrical components in your car are at great risk of over voltage, and failure too. You need to get a different alternator asap, before you damage everything. You may have already damaged the battery too.

parts like this are best located at a junkyard. Most clips, fasteners, buttons are generic for a make of car, probably any subaru 1991 and newer has a good chance to have something that will work, might not be exact, but will likely work.