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bheinen74

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Everything posted by bheinen74

  1. maybe a couple of the small honda 1992+ civic radiators sandwiched together up front, they dont take up much room and are efficient. Original OEM honda ones can probably be sourced really cheap on the honda forums, since those ricers tend to put in koyo or some other riced model that are less than efficient but have lots of bling, but no go effects.
  2. i would like to see the first one to make it to 100k without warranty issue. if that happens, its decent. if they get to 150k, then even better. will take several years for the first one to rack up that amount of miles. too soon to tell is the only real smart answer right now.
  3. lots of win in a ej22t. Must use premium gas, i am sure you know this though thru searching. good luck. post some pics and have fun. I have had 2 autotragics, and 2 5mts, on my 4th legacy turbo these days. The autotragic are fun if they shift well and no slipping.
  4. small short screws that are hidden under the window weather stripping. You have to tug the ribber stripping out to get to them. There is a metal strip under the stripping, that has access to you guessed it, more screws.
  5. Why doesnt the 87 Brat have adjustable suspension? It should have.
  6. remove seat bottom 2 bolts. pull up cushion remove bolt going into the latch portion of the belt, the part with the red button to release. Tension will ease, you will be able to unbuckle. put all bolts back in.
  7. one of those breather tubes that goes straight down to the top of engine, usually has a short 2" inch long rubber hose that cracks, as it becomes like glass. It looks like you show the plastic tube, and the hose is mia, did yours disentegrate like all 3 of my previous turbo legs has done?
  8. There are a lot of cars on the market which have been flooded but never got branded as such. Buyer beware if you ever by a car from Gulf Coast states, especially pay attention to carfax places the car was registered. Katrina, and other storms, were a way for crooks to make huge profit buying cheap flooded cars off people, then making the cleanup, only to sell. If a car was ever registered in New Orleans during the year 2005, it is surely a flood car-saltwater. I wouldnt touch any flood car. Even some in Iowa from Iowa City and Cedar Rapids have high likely hood of being flooded. Best way to check, is to look closely at the condition of the carpet. Any staining in the backseat carpet, or not being plush is good evidence. Also, look in the spare tire area, you can usually tell there too, it will look corrodedish. Right now, there are a lot of questionable cars from Iowa on the market due to there has been time to clean them up from the flooding we had last year. If you go look at a car, and all the windows are down, its a sign they may be trying to air out the mold, must of a flood. Anyhow. Good luck. A non flooded car with value of 15g is worth about 2g once its flooded-thats after it is fixed. Cause really, they never can be fixed 100% like said, bearings, brakes, rotors, hubs, shocks, springs hinges, all the electrical from bulbs to wire to dash, sensors, alternators, wipers, lights, everything is ruined in a flooded car.
  9. I changed my leaking tire on the BRAT with my matching full size spare. Seems during MUDCOAST I picked up a rock fragment chunk that was pushed between the rim and tire bead. I deflated the tire and pulled the rock out with a pointy device. This is just my scheduled rotation in of the 5th ture to keep treads even -on a side note, I helped my neighbor work on his daughters 2000 VW Passat. We replaced the front hub assembly, and that car is crap to work on. Makes me appreciate the Subaru ease.......her bearing was shot, the upper control arm bolt was seized, the steering tie rod end bolt snapped, and the ABS sensor is crap to work with compared to Subaru...... My 94SS which i have now had for about 2 weeks, I have racked up about 320 miles of no problems.....first tank of gas I think it was about 21mpg. Hoping for about 23 on this next tank with the 93 octane premium i filled it with.
  10. the last alternator i got from the junkyard looked new and had a reman sticker on it- and it charged 18V i had to get new battery too and replace it,
  11. some have been lucky to find recently belted engines in the junkyard, look for service records in the glovebox or sharpie marking the mileage under the hood . That is as cheap as it gets, most yards charge like 1 dollar for belts lol
  12. if its the car in your pic, it does not really matter, as you have the best engine subaru has assembled. Its the non-interference ej22, and that engine probably has another 300k left in it with regular oil changes, and normal maintenance.
  13. Did you do brakes on more than just the Griz, hard to tell what car you are talking about lol. Blower motor full of critters? exhaust cooking a CV boot? egg smlel or hot metal smell, or rubber/oil smell
  14. It's quite possible the very first time they started the car at the factory it had piston slap on cold start. Seems that is the norm for 90% of the members with that engine. If the noise goes away after it warms, no worries, seriously, its a Subaru thing Make sure you have proper engine oil weight, and a proper (not FRAM crap) oil filter. Drive it, it will get you point A to B.
  15. It should my parents said 16" cleared their 06 Legacy special edition which had 17" stock. They now offer 16" in the 2010 Base legacy again. Finally They are offering people who drive snow a choice.
  16. Ben wont race he already know's the EA81 with weber is faster oh well just on the highway, 4spd D/R who needs a 5th gear
  17. I like the title of this thread, and then people provide the answers and solution to why the oil was not draining down. Lots of LERN in this thread. People on here are great at solving things.
  18. when i think of Chinese made car parts I always remind myself of how crap they are: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kQGAK550LE They dont build a dang thing to last, or that is safe.EVER. period.
  19. On the 2006 Outback I had, I ordered a transponder chip key from Ebay, identical supplier to Subaru, but it didnt have the subaru logo on it. I then went to the Subaru dealer with said key, provided my VIN, and they cut the key (they couldnt fit me in their service schedule to actually program the chip with the ECU. So off to ACE hardware where they can duplicate chipped keys. They could read my factory key, but not program the same code onto my new key. So that was a failure. Back to decide if i wanted to take a day off vacation just to go back and have Subaru program the key (long story short, Subaru Dealer is 75 miles away one way, they have a TERRIBLE service dept that either can or can't do the job when they say they can, might even have to leave car for a few days, 75 miles back home with ride how? or just take the hwole day off and hope they can do service, which the dealer cannot do service-Ramsey sucks.-. Decided not worth a day vacation. Key can still unlock doors. When i sold the outback, I had both the keys on the same keyring. Both keys look same xcept one is MIA the logo. I didnt realize what i was doing, and tried to start the car. It will crank it, but wont actually start the car. Tried 2 times, same thing, no start... Sell car and disclosed the extra key needs programmed at a cost of like 50 just for programming. Cost of blank key was like 28, having it cut via vin was 11..... you get the idea. Hope this helps. A chip key is not required for unlocking doors. You can go get a generic key cut to unlock your doors.. .just no starty.
  20. That era of ej25 engine has factory piston slap/rod knock, as well as normal headgasket failures. Its nothing to worry about, just the way Subaru built them and the components, quality of workmanship of that engine. Have your headgaskets been replaced? Are you saying the 00 engine does not have start up noise? , cause i bet it does also and you are not gaining a whole lot by a motor swap. Run your ej25 with the startup noise until something fails, that is what most people do.
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