bheinen74

My 1985 Brat is going under the knife, lots of surgery and stuff. To start, I have the engine out now. The stock trans was leaking in 3 or more places: leaked at the shift select rod since I purchased it leaked at the driveshaft stubs since i owned it. most recently it must have blown the front seal Oh, and to top it all off, it has always liked popping out of reverse too, since owning Right now, I got the engine out, cause I thought it maybe was rear main leak-NO that is dry from the last time i installed the new clutch 2 years ago. The engine oil never ran low, but the trans did, but the way the oil was spraying and leaking i had to pull apart to see. I removed my 2 year old cork pan gasket, and have resealed it with permatex ultra grey. I am going to toss in another spare 4spd D/R trans, that also look like it has been sitting for years, and it is hard to tell with all the dust, but I think the front seal may be okay as well as the shift select. The very rear tail seal looks to be chunky, and also the axle stub seals, which I have left and right to put in new While the engine is out, I am removing the weber, and going back to a stock carb with the stock intake kidney filter box. My stock CA carb was always junk, but I picked one up from a member here that was from a non ECU car. Also, at some point, some minty stock Brat seats are going to go in replacing my leather seats. Also, getting new front bearings, new front adjustable struts, new transmission mounts, new outer tie rod ends, new front rotors and brake pads, and a new front axle. I thnk that is is.

you can't clear a 27" on a gen2 BRAT without a 4" lift. You might as well cut away, cause a 2" still wont clear. Or get a shorter tire. but you would need a 4" lift to clear a 27" with no cutting.

gnomes?

SubieMech85 did this on his Gl-10, putting in a ea81 from his ski wagon in place of the ea82t. there are a couple things he had to do. Switch to a ea81 radiator. lay the ea82 power steering pump in the spare tire sill install a underhood fuel pressure regulator. -the ea82 engine in itself is not really that bad. The ea82t is TERRIBLE though. I myself won't own a ea82 engined car.

My original 85 BRAT manual 4spd D/R trans is leaking: Leaking out front shaft Leaking out back where the shift rod comes out (it has leaked here since i bought the BRat and leaking side axle seals again leaked here since i bought the BRAT and it has always popped out of Reverse. I have another D/R trans with sticker 036150, it looks the same as my original-only thing is condition is unknown. it has been sitting a long time. Can anyone tell me what it is about? what the 036150 Also, is there a access plate on the 4spd D/R to install front output seal without splitting the case. I came across some stuff but it didn't mention 4spd, and the pics looked like 5spd D/R, and that one you do have to split the case. I think maybe the 4psd had a front access panel I already have the new axle shaft seals L & R, the spare trans will need them, and it needs new rear seal for the driveshaft, anyone got a new one they would sell? I might leave the front as is on the spare unless it can be replaced without splitting case, and take my chance it is not leaking there. Help thanks this is after trying to clean it

Those probably are not going to work at all. You need either alloy that is thick to drill, or it will rip out, or you need steel. Most people choose steel wheels cause it is thick enough to not cause a safety issue. You see, the back of your wheels where the current holes are are thick, reinforced in the engineering where the holes are. If you drill new holes where it is not reinforced, your death or whatnot is a risk. Alloy is thin, light, but not as strong so you are making a big mistake in thinking you can use those wheels At least you are only out 40 bucks so far. Sell them for that, and go get some steel wheels and you can drill all you want then.

If. Oh yeah it will go higher. I think i am well prepared with the gas mileage that i get with the Hondas i have. that, is why i am selling my SS.

what year did they move the ea82 filter up to engine compartment? My old 93 parts car Loyale was up under the hood but i guess it was the fuel injected foem

thats a H6 engine right? There was much debate on the SVX forum that it is quite normal, now i am talking the eg33 that, on cold start-up a quick puff of smoke is normal, well that they do it and no concern to be worried of. I think it is of nothing at all, keep up on your oil change schedule and check oil levels every 1500 miles or every other fillup.

The 05+ headgasket oil leak is at the bottom of the block, in the oil return chamber. It is not a high pressure area, but the oil will drip out. If it is really bad, like the one in my parents 06 outback they recently purchased, you will get lots of smoke under the hood as it burns off, and the cabin will smell like oil burn when you come to stop after drive. Like sitting at a stoplight, etc. My parents purchases the car with thoughts it would need HG's you know the car does have 290k. But they are lucky in the driver side head is shiny clean, as if it has already had a head job. So they are only looking at doing the passenger head, cause in all respect, the oil burning smell and smoke is quite bothersome, even for me. Most my cars have at some point smelled like this, but for my mom, it is not something she is going to want to drive her friends around with the nasty smell.

that is the radius rod. subaru parts cat calls it "link"\

A long time ago, before i had a bunch of tools, I did and EJ22 oil pan in the back yard. Basically, I removed the 2 nuts on the engine to crossmember mounts, and removed the pitchstopper at the firewall. Then removed the coolant hoses to the radiator. And probably disconnected the airbox stuff and a few other little things. I then took my small floor jack, and with some thick plywood about 24" x 24", I jacked it up under the auto trans drain pan, being careful, you don't want to smash that pan. once the engine got high enough, i braced it with some other 4x4 wood blocks to hold it from coming back down. Then i removed the oil pan bolts, pryed the pan off, and put a new one back on using RTV ultra grey.

Got one leaking on my parents 06 outback 2.5i. The driver side has already been redone headgasket before their purchase and is clean and dry, the head looks newish. Now, at 290k the passenger head has been leaking, and going to replace the Headgasket this coming week. My previous 06 outback that i sold to ShawnW's parents, guess Shawn had to do the headgaskets on it too, at 90k I really like the old ej22's

I thought this appropriate

I have had luck shopping on ebay for used tire of exact same make brand size model. I have purchased 3 used tires for Subarus from a seller on there. I use their pictures, and depth info to match up with the ones needed. I got my Brother his WRX tire replacement for his rebuilder car he bought it with a damaged tire due to the wreck Found my parents a tire for their outback one was worn bad due to dead 290k mile shock. It matches the others perfect And the old 94SS i sold to Mick, I had one of the tires on the wheel set worn from when it was on my other car with a bad alignment, i got a tire to match too. 3 times, no issues. All these used tires cost range from 34 shipped to 61 shipped. Shipping has been free from the one seller, and the tire arrives in 3 days from when payment was made.

^ sounds like they need an "oil change app". Won't be long and the people coming out of school won't know how to tie their own shoes without an app for that.

"Its in pretty good shape except for some serious rust in the bed" I have opinion that I would rather have your serious rust than my rotted 84 BRAT. Yours looks nice compared to what we get here. That bed and shock tower and side walls look solid.

did you check for bent tie rod or a bent shock? did it knock steering wheel center off from where it was driving down road before or is same position just with left pull? Camber and toe will cause pull. so one or the other. shock bent, or tie rod bent you could see either i would think. radius rod is another. Can you take a side pic of the car when the tires are pointed straight ahead

Usually the rule in uneven tire wear, is when the tire is not even worn "round" the tire circumferance, that is it a defective tire.

do you have recommended year of maxima?. I don't see anything but newer 90's in the yards. But if i have a definite year i can maybe hook some people up with some when i find them.

The brand new alternators have been known to be bad right out the box from a discount parts store.

It may adjust all day long, you have no cutoff is maybe the reason you are shining into the bird nests, and other drivers eyes blinding them as well. It you adjust them down lots, and you still have this, then you need to do something else. Add a cutoff. when you sanded down the lense grooves, you essentially sanded off the cutoff portion.

ATF can leak out the bottom of the ATF dipstick tube; there is a oring there at the trans housing, that gets brittle and old and leaks, have had that on 2 of mine before. it then drips back to the tailshaft where it drips down. that would be my guess.