bheinen74

are there blue and red? and a ground of course.

it would look like a mini Blu if it had blue paint from the mid doors to top. nice score, looks like a clean little 3banger.

when you burp it, you should also have heater settings on full heat, hottest temp setting, full heat. Jack up the front of the car, or drive it up a hill parked nose up, then the air can burp out the radiator fill cap when it is to operating temp. Then fill, repeat steps.

electronic parking brake is BAD juju, just look at how electronic drive by wire is going.... i would probably swap that ebrake out with an earlier model so you have cable control, you know, in case there are virals in the ECU. dont mean to pee in your cereal. oh, check out http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/ a few of us on this board are members there and it is a useful tool.

even though the price value of the cars is quite minimal, repair costs still have no regard to the cars value, the labor/parts, all cost something, What we are finding on the 500 dollar old subarus, is the cost to keep them up is more than the value of the car as a whole. No biggie in my book, sure beats a few car payments.

too bad Subaru doesnt believe in making small ones anymore. They could achieve high mpg if they chose to do that, and people would buy them. Really awesome scenery there.

when you pull a ej22 turbo engine, the great part is, you don't undo the exhaust header at the heads. Instead, you unhook the downpipe right after the turbo, near the transmission to engine housing. When you pull the engine, header and all come out. they really are not that bad at all. The first Subaru engine i pulled was the ej22t like you have. rememember to unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate first thing....there is a handy access cover on the upper passenger side to get to the 10mm bolts for that. if you have any doubts, you can pm me and i will give my phone number for this. I think i have now pulled, reinstalled at least 6 or 7 ej22t's, and pulled a few ej22's so i can tell you the little things. brent

goes faster?

but then getting in and out you have 2 belts to unlatch then, not just the lap belt buckle. the reason it slides around is so when you open the door you can get out and in. if you disable it in the fastened position, it is even more hastle then fixing it.

making a daily driver with hood pins, hrmmmmm.

spring compressor the fits over the coils and makes them closer might get that, or what about pulling axle off the transmission on that side to get the extra clearance then put in your spacer, put axle back on the stub, fasten up.

topper came off today, so there are 2 jump seats with seatbelts available i will let you and dennis toss the coin. Dennis may take his Brat again i cant tell what he is going to do.

its not under warranty. They rarely can be fixed, if so, not for long. I have had 4 of this era, and 2 had the seatbelt guide fail. replace with good used and be done.

Good grief, i am drooling on my keyboard again, due to some fine welding expertise, nice fab skills, etc. Your welds look really good, and your awesome pipe bender is nifty. One thing i see, though and don't take it the wrong way, is that the way the rock guard fits against the front fender will make removal / replacement of the fender nearly impossible if ever need be. Dont take that the wrong way, that is the only thing i can see i would wonder on. oh, never mind i think i found a photo where the fender is off, so it looks like you got that covered too, nice, i just didnt see all the photos loaded. good thing i got the keyboard protector on, drool is bad.

in KC, there is a pick in Pull off the highway and they have quite a few lagacies of that ere with the belts. they also have a 01 forester with 4 decent 16" alloys on it. Also, Rich Industries in KC should have it as well, they have pretty good stock of Soobs. If this is something that can wait a few weeks, i can EASILY get you a good one as well from my junkyard they have about 8 or 9 good ones as well, i just live 40 minutes away and i cannot go there after it rains (it rained yesterday) due to the fact it is hilly and all mud and it is a big yard and the imports are way way back.

i hope that nasty green leak is fixed by april 10. probably the water pump, or the o ring seal off the pump connector outlet to hose. .subaru's bleed the color of green when there is love.

go buy the Subaru plug wires. You did not save money by buying the cheapies, that is probably the whole issue, you can search that and see. Subaru uses a "wasted spark" design ignition. Hardly any other manufacturer does so. the plug wires are very critical that they are designed for this. Cheapy brands do not even know what wasted spark is, and they just make the plugs like they would for other cars. does not work.

"So, I drained the pan and put in a quart of X Transmission and 2 1/2 quarts of factory Subi trans fluid" that means you are about 3-4 quarts low i believe. drain and fill is around 5-7 qts. you only put in 3.5 qts. not gonna work right. better check the manual for fluid capacity. but then your post #1 says "Yesterday I drained the auto trans fluid from the pan and installed a quart of the Trans X non slip product and three and a half quarts of Subi trans fluid. Did not install a new filter as that was changed 5000 miles ago and it is a factory filter." again, you are not adding enough ATF.

you mounted you CB exactly how i did mine.

sounds like you are putting the subframe and rear wheel drive section/struts off the red BRAT into this wagon? that about right assumption. That be a lot easier that doing ladder link bars like you did on the red one or is this wagon going to keep neutered in the back, IE FWD only no rear diff.

the way the front appears to be accordion folded, both up, then down, I hope the frame is not cracked. The hit twisted the frame, and it has some sway as well. Not going to be easy to fix, but can be done. Another car with no accident history to switch parts over to would be the best choice, but also since that car has zero rust, it would be worth fixing.

3/8 drive Craftsman ratchet set from Sears with metric 6 point sockets is what you should go for. get one or two extensions

it said you were waiting til tomorrow for the napa ordered ones to come in. why of course, put the new one in when you take out the old.

when you unscrew it, you need to cap it off with a rubber or plastic plug of some sort ASAP. Moisture and brake fluid mixing is not good, need to keep it sealed from the moisture in the air, fluid will dribble out but the cap will stop it..

yes, like said above, a closed end wrench will not slip off rounding the corners for future.